Does anyone here know where I can find just an all-around comprehensive writeup of general car audio? I'm tired of being a noob when someone says "Yeah, I'm running 2 JL 1/2000's", etc. Just the all-around thigns you expect people to know. What do the 1/2000 numbers mean? How much extra power should I have in my amp to be able to run subs? How many amps should a person have if they're going to improve their speakers? Where do tweeters go, how much should you pay for them, do you need amps for them too? What are bassblocks? How important is your HU to your overall sound? They're all about 52x4, etc. How do you remove the center console around your HU to install a new one in the 99-04 mustangs, as well as installing satellite radio (the external tuner) antenna/running wires, and is it easy to do all of this yourself without ****ing up your int? Just the stuff that everyone should know, but some of us are lacking on. =)

Thanks!

 

Unforutanetly I don't know of a write that answers all your questions. With that in mind I will try to shed some light on your questions.

Lets start with head units and power ratings. There are two power ratings an individual needs to be concerned about, RMS and Peak. You will often see a head unit rating that says something like this, 52x4, 18x4 RMS. What that means is that the deck is capable of putting out a peak of 52 watts by 4 channels, and that it will consistently put out 18 watts by 4 channels. The channels are going to be Right Front and Left Front, Right Rear and Left Rear. Most people agree that the RMS power is the more important rating to pay attention to. The reason being is that the speakers will sound better/less distorted if supplied with continuous clean power. In terms of head unit quality and their effect on sound, the head unit is the source. It is what is reading the CD or receiving the radio signal. If your source is poor, it wouldn't matter if your amplifier is top notch, it can only reproduce what it is given.

In terms of amp ratings such as 1/2000, you really just have to pay attention to the specifics, what that probably means is that the amp is capable of producing a peak of 2000 watts into 1 channel. Again however, the same principal relating to power is applied to an amplifier. If you check the specifics of the amp, you will find the RMS ratings as well as Peak ratings, as well as the number of channels those ratings support.

With all this talk about power, one cannot leave out Impedance. Impedance is in simple terms, the resistance to power flow. In other words, think of it as trying to blow water through a straw, if you pinch the straw, it is harder for you to blow through it. All car stereo equipment power ratings will include an impedance. For example an amplifier may be rated at 150watts RMS, 300 watts Peak, at 4 Ohms. What this means is, you can constantly push 150 watts to the sub, for a split second 300 watts, and that it can handle a load no lower than 4 Ohms. If you were to connect a subwoofer that was rated at 2 Ohms to that same amplifier, it will probably burn up due to the fact that the subwoofer is able to take the power faster than the amplifier can send it across the wire. (that is overly simplified, but the concept is there).

In terms of speaker selection and subwoofer selection, that is more opinion than fact. Depending on the type of music you listen to, brand choice, etc, you will find varying opinions. However most would agree that top brands include Alpine, JL Audio, Orion, etc. In terms of how to match amps to speakers, this is where it just takes a little bit of planning to make a decision. You want to try to match what a speaker or subwoofer can handle to what an amplifier is able to produce. That will give you your best sound quality. In terms of price, comparison pricing and the internet are your friend. My advice is to stay with a reputable company. Most would agree that you get what you pay for and be weary of ebay amplifiers. If its a brand you have never heard of with a crazy power rating, it is probably a piece of junk.

In terms of bass blocks. Bass blocks are merely capacitors wired in series with your speakers. Specifically a bass block is wire connected to end of the speaker wire and the other end to the speaker (Positive or negative wire don't matter). What they do is remove the sound frequency range of bass. This gives an individual the ability to cleanly run speakers in conjuction with subwoofers and not run into distortion. In other words, if you were to have subs installed in your car, you would not need to worry about having your car speakers attempt to produce the bass. If you have ever turned the radio up and had the speakers begin to distort it was probably because they were past their sound producing capabilities.

In terms of installation, all devices come with wiring diagrams. These diagrams show you how to wire things correclty. If you start with a head unit wiring diagram, it should make sense. If it doesn't just post questions back and I along with other will try to answer them. In terms of removing the center console trim to install a new radio, pre-01 had a little different setup. But in an 01 you just gently pull the plastic trim off. Then you use a special ford tool to remove the stock radio. I recommend purchasing a wire harness to convert your stock harness into the wire pairs to match your head unit's wiring diagram. Really just take your time and be careful. If you got pull something and it doesn't want to come off, look around and see if there is a screw you missed.

I hope that this helps you out.

 

That really helps alot! I am sure that I will have alot more for you as I go along. One of the first things that comes to mind, however, is the install. I have an 00 Coupe, and am removing the stock HU and cd slave. Will I sitll need these special ford tools to take them out? If so, how much and where can I find them? Or is there a way to mcguiver it?

 

JL's website has a few tutorials that are very informative.

 

I believe you will still need the ford tools. Really all they are, are 2 pieces of metal shaped in a U with special notches on the end. I may be wrong, but I thought bestbuy sold the tool. In terms of your new setup, I would recommend a single DIN radio, the standard size, and it should go where your original head unit went. Then I imagine there is a kit that will fill the slave position with either a little shelf or a faceplate.

 

I kinda cheated out of paying a few dollars for the tools by cutting up a wire coat hangar, bending U's into it, pushing it into the slots, tugging the ends towards the doors in the car, and slowly pulling it out. Works great and costs $0 =)

 

double post

 

Thats great. Money saved there means more money for the stereo.