amp and sub question
it sounded like a phase issue, sorry I was late. What happend is by wiring one of the inputs backwards, you basically cancelled out the signal. For every inch the speaker on the left would go up, the speaker on the left would go down the same amount. By getting the input backwards the inverted signal cancelled out the regular one.
I used ot something similar alot in indiana when I installed there. If you build a box with one big open chamber, rather then two smaller sealed ones, and then wired one speaker backwards you will get no sound. The subs will be moving like all heck but again for every inch one goes forward, the other goes backwards the same amount. By doing this there is not change in air pressure, and no sound made........... I would tell them they had a speaker backwards but they would always argue with me. I could easily prove I was right by pulling one of the RCA's out of the amp. Now with only one speaker working it would instantly start booming. It was always great to fix a problem that I could tell had bothered them all afternoon in 3 secs. One of the few high points of the job.
I used ot something similar alot in indiana when I installed there. If you build a box with one big open chamber, rather then two smaller sealed ones, and then wired one speaker backwards you will get no sound. The subs will be moving like all heck but again for every inch one goes forward, the other goes backwards the same amount. By doing this there is not change in air pressure, and no sound made........... I would tell them they had a speaker backwards but they would always argue with me. I could easily prove I was right by pulling one of the RCA's out of the amp. Now with only one speaker working it would instantly start booming. It was always great to fix a problem that I could tell had bothered them all afternoon in 3 secs. One of the few high points of the job.
You guys were right about the phase being out. I had the passengers side right rear input to the amp reversed. I didn't have a schematic so I guess at what I thought it was and then just assumed it was correct until you guys mentioned to check it. Thanks.
wow for 2 25 amp fuses you have some might small power wire running to that thing. you should have at least 8 gauge and 4 gauge would be even better. also put the inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. its there in case your wire ever got nicked and grounded out - so the closer to the battery the better. (and the bigger the better, cause even a 200 amp fuse would blow before you had a fire or meltdown)
I put the gauge wire that was recommended.....10 or 12 gauge. I got that out of the installation manual. The wire is good for 30 amps....the unit draws 25 amps. The wire stays cool so I assume it is ok. I know the fuse should be closer to the batt but it was cold when I put the fuse in so I figured the one inside was better than nothing. I'll put another one outside when it gets a little warmer around here. Thanks.
The unit has the possibility of drawing 50 amps, thats why it has two 25 amp fuses. You also have voltage drop due to wire resistance that makes the current draw even higher.
If that is your only fuse, buy another block and put one at the battery immediately. If you do not, any short before that fuse at the amp will catch your car on fire. That fire will warm you up real quick.
If that is your only fuse, buy another block and put one at the battery immediately. If you do not, any short before that fuse at the amp will catch your car on fire. That fire will warm you up real quick.
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