What else do i need for self installation?
I have the sub, box, and amp. I know that i need 2 lines of about 16 feet of power wire. Do i need anything else? I see a lot of people have a fuse in line with their power wire. What is that called and where do i get one if i need it? Thanks guys for all your help! (And Jaz, i know i need the pvc!)
Hey Joey. Yes, you need power lines to amp from battery (as you already know) Install a fuse as close to the battery on power supply line as possible. I made an aluminum bracket and mounted off the top of the power steering pump (wasa couple hours work, but looks REALLY cool and functionsgreat) The ground wire should be of same guage, and BOLTED to bare metal of body. What kind of amp are you running? You mayhave mentioned in previous post, but forgot (you know, senior moment and all, I'm 42)
You will need to size the amp for the power supply wire (not the amps) The power supply wire guage shouldmatch the amp(s) demand and exceed by small amount. This fuse is designed to protect the power wire only (it will protect amps to, but not what it is designed to do) The amp(s) have their own fuses and will protect the amp in the case of a short.
There are lots of cool fuse holders out there and here's what I used:
Jazzer
[IMG]local://upfiles/39838/94F632132F614163A5915A7FE335CF67.jpg[/IMG]
You will need to size the amp for the power supply wire (not the amps) The power supply wire guage shouldmatch the amp(s) demand and exceed by small amount. This fuse is designed to protect the power wire only (it will protect amps to, but not what it is designed to do) The amp(s) have their own fuses and will protect the amp in the case of a short.
There are lots of cool fuse holders out there and here's what I used:
Jazzer
[IMG]local://upfiles/39838/94F632132F614163A5915A7FE335CF67.jpg[/IMG]
What did you mean by size the amp for the power supply wire? For now i think i am going to use an old amp i have (cause it's free) A kenwood KAC-748. I think that i need to bridge the channels for the hook up. and the sub is a kicker 4-ohm DVC L5. I wired the sub in the box for a 2-ohm load.
Your amp is rated at 500 watts. So you want to install power wire to supply this much current. I figure 12 guage is plenty. Inyour case, I don't think it is necessary to install the PCV pipe as I originally recommended. I used it b/c of the heavy guage wire I used in my system.
You have a current draw of 42 amps.Take 500 (watts) divided by 12 (volts) = 41.66666666666666666666667 amps
The power wire should supply this much current. If you install a 40 amp fuse, you will be fine. If you think you may upgrade to higher powersystem oneday, put appropriate guage higher for that eventuality (put in 1/0 to be safe
)
If you do go with heavier guage power wire, STILL put in a 40 amp fuse. You can upgrade to appropriate fuse later upon additional amps.
As for OHM load stuff, I will be of NO help at all. P or ttocs "The undisputed heavyweight champ" can chime it for ya.
The bloodied and bruised Jazzer
ttocs: I want a rematch ADRIAN! ADRIAN!
You have a current draw of 42 amps.Take 500 (watts) divided by 12 (volts) = 41.66666666666666666666667 amps

The power wire should supply this much current. If you install a 40 amp fuse, you will be fine. If you think you may upgrade to higher powersystem oneday, put appropriate guage higher for that eventuality (put in 1/0 to be safe
) If you do go with heavier guage power wire, STILL put in a 40 amp fuse. You can upgrade to appropriate fuse later upon additional amps.
As for OHM load stuff, I will be of NO help at all. P or ttocs "The undisputed heavyweight champ" can chime it for ya.
The bloodied and bruised Jazzer
ttocs: I want a rematch ADRIAN! ADRIAN!
I personally would run 2 to 4 (8 is a minimum) gauge wire and install a 60 amp fuse.Under rms comditions the amp will make 500 watts, but under peak conditions, the amp will pull a little more then rms current. A 60 amp fuse will allow the amp to work effecientlyand will also blow if you short.
That is just about the worst amp choice for that sub, but we will make it work.
You will need a set of splitters that divide the RCA cable into two male ends. That amp is a 4 channel so you will put the split RCAs in the amp just as you usually would.
You will have to run two separate sets of speaker wires off the sub. One set to each voice coil. Then connect the other end of each one of those sets to the channels on the amp you would bridge.
I hope you have a multimeter, and if you do, measure the resistance at the amp for each set of speaker wires, it should be 4 ohms.
Now the hard part, get your gains and lpf's as closeas possible in order to make sure each one of the voice coils get as close to the same signal as possible.
That is just about the worst amp choice for that sub, but we will make it work.
You will need a set of splitters that divide the RCA cable into two male ends. That amp is a 4 channel so you will put the split RCAs in the amp just as you usually would.
You will have to run two separate sets of speaker wires off the sub. One set to each voice coil. Then connect the other end of each one of those sets to the channels on the amp you would bridge.
I hope you have a multimeter, and if you do, measure the resistance at the amp for each set of speaker wires, it should be 4 ohms.
Now the hard part, get your gains and lpf's as closeas possible in order to make sure each one of the voice coils get as close to the same signal as possible.
ORIGINAL: PReal
I personally would run 2 to 4 (8 is a minimum) gauge wire and install a 60 amp fuse.Under rms comditions the amp will make 500 watts, but under peak conditions, the amp will pull a little more then rms current. A 60 amp fuse will allow the amp to work effecientlyand will also blow if you short...
I personally would run 2 to 4 (8 is a minimum) gauge wire and install a 60 amp fuse.Under rms comditions the amp will make 500 watts, but under peak conditions, the amp will pull a little more then rms current. A 60 amp fuse will allow the amp to work effecientlyand will also blow if you short...
Help me out here, P. I am all over the upgrade to larger power line (you already know that
). Buteven thoughthe 40 amp fuse is a little undersized forRMS, Iwould think it would be sufficient b/c the short bursts of power (unless they are HIGH bursts of power) would not be enough to blow the fuse. Will the smaller fuse cause that much resistance that over the course of operation, the fuse would get hot and blow? Jazzer on "The Resistance" movement
You never know how long a bass note will be. You know a fuse will last milliseconds. I personally would rather have a little more flexibility in my system, then blow fuses. Just my $.02
Man that sounds like a real PIA for that amp. I might just say F-it and wait out for the amp and run everything anyways next weekend. then just put the amp in and go. Because i know at some point i am going to want to put a better amp in there. Yeah, i'll do that. Would a Profile AP1000M be a good budget amp for my application?


