Thanks again for all the advice. That'll help me a lot in building this thing--it's much better than I could've done for the same price at crutchfield or some place.

Could you point me to a site or thread that helps with installation? My only car audio experience is replacing the head unit in my old Jeep with a cheap JVC when the original radio bit the dust. I'll also need help building a box--materials, methods, etc.

I'm thinking long term now. Would there be a benefit to adding mid-bass speakers or something to replace the rear speakers? I'm assuming I would need a new amp for that. Could I add another 2 channel, or should I replace the 2 channel you suggested with a 4 channel when that time comes? Also, if in the future I decide to go for more bass, would it be as simple as adding another sub and amp? Would there be any issues with them being horizontally opposed, or would it be ideal for them to be inline?

I'm new to screwing with audio systems, but I want to make sure I do it right and want to know what the issues would be with future upgradeability.

 

If still availavble install doctor was a good site with help with HU installation.

If you want to know how to build a box, visit www.bcae1.comIf you scroll down on the left window, there is a page called basic enclosure calculations. It is very helpful.

In general there is no need for rear fill. If you do decide to run rear fill, you could run a midbass off the HU. You might want to add some sound deadening to the budget instead of rear speakers, as that will be a great bang for the buck improvement as well. It will allow those front speakers to shine. I have a pathfinder, and with proper sound deadening and a descent installation I have no need for rear speakers to fill the much larger cabin of my vehicle. Since yours is a coupe, I beleive the rear speakers would be in the rear tray, and if so, leave them out to allow more bass to enter the cabin.

 

The idea would be to just add a sub/amp.

But you would need to make another bx, and buy more wiring.

If your wiring isn't big enough, you would need to buy sufficient wiring, and re-run it all.


You might need to upgrade your battery, or altenator.


It just depends on what the new GT's electrical system is capable of.

As long as you stay around 2,000 watts I could see you getting by easily.

 

Word ^^^^^^

Also, if the output is not high enough, you are screwed with those space limitations. You should be happy with that setup though, it will provide great SQ and great output.

 

Install Dr. is still up, so I'll look to that site and the other you mentioned for installation help.

I'm sure this is something that I can be happy with for awhile. If my needs change and I get more serious about output and such, then I could look to hijack more trunk space for the subs, but that's another project for another day.

I appreciate both of your help in piecing this together. I'll let you know how it goes when I get around to installing it.

 

No problem, make sure to take lots of pics to show all the newbs the great equipment you got for a steal!

 

Hifonics overate there amps so be careful!!! Theres no waythat amp can produce 1200 watts. Why u ask??? Cause its only has 2 30 amp fuses lol ha bench it u might get 600 or so at 1ohm with very high distortion. Buy quality first!!!!

 

Hifonics amps are slightly overrated, but in general they are great bang for the buck.

Where one earth did you find only 2 30 amp fuses. I can't find pics. I was assuimg around 80-100 amps for fuses and at around 80% effeciency for class D (50-60 for A/B) your getting around 1000watts.

 

naww i was just going for shock factor but alil overrated ummmm ok. Ive yet to see any class d made by hifonics actually put out its rated power!! Hifonics states these high numbers cause they probuse 14.4 volts!!! Which amp is not made for but hey there just trying to get these big numbers to sell to lil kids who see the little neon lights an say wooo. Cactus Sounds amps or (OLD) US Amps want spend my money on anything else.

 

Exactly, it might put out its rated power, but its power for the money.