Hi,

I've been trying to find this problem occur in other postings but had no luck. I recently upgraded the sound system in my 2006 Mustang GT which had the Shaker 500 system. I had the head unit switched for the Kenwood DNX 7100 and added JL Audio's stealthbox to it with an 800 watt MTX amp, it rocks.

However, upon picking up my car from my local car audio dealer, they told me that the factory subs from the doors had to be disconnected because they were "popping" when the volume was turned up too high. They said that the sub "controller" on the head unit was controlling the factory subs as well and was making them sound really bad so they left them disconnected. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how to resolve it because I would like to keep that mid bass in the door if possible. Thanks.

 

Search "5 volt to 12 volt".Read "amp pop after amp install".That should help you.In short you need a regulator from radio shack.

 

don't ever go to that shop again.

 

Those idiots sold you a JL stealthbox when you could have had a killer front stage with subs...... nthats enough to make me never go back.

I would go ahead and purchase some new fronts along with some 8's for the doors to serve as midbass drivers.

 

I've been facing the similar question of what to do with the 8" holes in the door. The problem is that the space is really shallow and that to put anything deeper than 2.75" requires a little bit of modification. I've heard of some MTX (woo hoo) that drops in and some RF (oh joy) that can be crammed in there after liberal use of a heat gun.

I was actually thinking of stealing somebody elses idea and using the 8" hole to put the 6 1/4" of a component into and then using the existing 4x6 location to put the tweeter. Alternatively, one could replace the 8", use the upper location for the component woofer, and put the tweeter on the a-pillar or something.

Any suggestions on what to use for the 8" opening?

 

Have 2.75 inches of mounting depth is barely enough for a 6.5 woofer. That would be my bet.

 

I think the 2.75" is if you want to put an 8" driver in. The cavity isn't symmetric so I think you have more depth if the diameter is smaller. This is of course all hearsay since I haven't cracked the door open yet.

 

syk05, where do I search for that? But, that's all that I need, a 5 volt to 12 volt converter/regulator? And, are there any current considerations I need to think about?

 

Whoops sorry bout that last post, I just found what you were talking about syk05. It seems that should fix the problem as it has fixed the others'. I guess I'll be stopping by radio shack on the way home from work, thanks alot for the help!!

 

I just completed the system in my 07GT. Using the Sony MEX BT5000 HU, I split the sub output sending signals to an Alpine PDX1600 driving a JBL P1224 sub in the trunk as well as to the Shaker 500 amps powering the 8s in the doors. I balanced the output using the gains on the Alpine amp since there is no control for the Shaker amp. Works very well for me. I also did the 12v to 5v regulator mode to eliminate the turn-on pop. The original poster stated that the installer said the speakers were popping at high volumes. This may still happen if you don't balance the output levels of the entire system.
Merv