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Headunit swap popping noise

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Old Jun 26, 2007 | 06:13 PM
  #1  
ghstintheshell's Avatar
ghstintheshell
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Default Headunit swap popping noise

I installed an aftermarket headunit, i have installed the line converter between the headunit and the amp. Everything is fine except for the very loud popping noise when the radio is turned on via either the key or the radio power button. So i am fairly confident that it has something to do with the remote turn on. How can i slove the problem of the popping noise
Old Jun 26, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #2  
BlindSword's Avatar
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

make sure all the wires are connected correctly and make sure you have the right harness. I installed the headunit myself and have had no issues. Im not sure about the line converter..someone else will have to help you on that.
Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:04 PM
  #3  
Nazar's Avatar
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

Use a peripheral line output converter. They hav ethe best parts in my experience.
Old Jun 26, 2007 | 08:20 PM
  #4  
ghstintheshell's Avatar
ghstintheshell
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

this has nothing to do with the line converter........interesting fact...output voltage on the aftermarket headunit remote power wireis 12v. Ouput voltage on stock radio is 6.92v.
Old Jun 26, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

you are correct. You have an aftermarket HU hooked up to the factory amps? A popping noise is common and unfortunatly I have not been able to get rid of it. I have tried everything from resistors on the remote wires to re-grounding but can't fix it.
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 12:33 AM
  #6  
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ghstintheshell
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

correct, the HU is hooked up to the amps via the Periphal(spelling) line converter. So the resistors did not work? Hmm...i am going to try three resister in series....if that doesnt work I am going to try a power on delay...we should work this out... I know we nip this in the ***. Just for ****s, i tried a capacitor in series with the remote lead, of course no success. I can reproduce the problem, so i know where the problem is at....which is a huge start, anytime power is applied to remote lead, you get a pop. The next step in my head is to crack open the stock radio and see whats going on in there. I will keep posting to help everyone, i also have pictures from my install as well as wiring/voltmetering for dummies. If anyone is interested i am happy to share info.
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:24 AM
  #7  
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

I have recently installed an aftermarket HU in my '06 GT and I read someones post on here, I don't remember where, about the popping noise. I don't know what model 'Stang you are doing the install in, but in the S197's the amp turn on is 5V. The aftermarket HU's are all 12V amp turn ons, hence the pop.. The other fellows post said to install a 5V regulator inline in the amp turn on wire. I did this and it worked great, no pop at all. Thelink below is what you need for 5V, I just soldered a wire to the input and output and put heat shrink tubing on them, then spliced it inline in the amp turn on wire.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search



Old Jun 27, 2007 | 08:26 PM
  #8  
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ghstintheshell
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Default RE: Headunit swap popping noise

The resisters worked, as long as you DO NOT run the resisters in series, it works. Will post more information and pictures later........ I took two 1k resistors and twisted/soldered the leads together. when your done twisting them/soldering the resistors together, you end up with a device that has three leads since each resistor has two leads and you are combining one lead from each resistor. Those three leads are as follows: Ground, amp, radio. Simplly: One lead is ground, one lead goes to the amp, the other lead goes to the remote wire on the headunit. This device goes one the remote power wire between the headunit and the factory ampYou need this due to the fact that the stock output voltage on the stock radio is 6.92-5v. Output on a an aftermarket headunit is 12V. You need to drop the voltage down, you could also use a voltage regulator, its listed previously in this thread, i have pictures if anyone needs them. You will need a voltmeter to determine which lead goes where(measure the Ohms). Hope this helps. Maybe this is sticky worthy?
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