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Mach 1000 Specifications
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 516
From:
Mach 1000 Specifications
I've been doing some searching but haven't been able to find too much. I was hoping somebody knew what the specifications for the Mach 1000 on a 2002 GT Convertible were and how it's wired. So far what I have managed to put together is the following... but if anybody knows better feel free to correct me.
The main head unit puts out 80watts max per channel to the speakers inside the passenger compartment. How many channels does the radio have? I don't know, but I know theres more than four speakers. There is a seperate data cable that runs a line signal to the 4 amps in the back, underneath the trunk lid. The four amps power two subwoofers. Each subwoofer is a Dual Voice coil, so each amp is basically powering each voice coil within the 2 woofers.
So my question are the following:
How many chanels does the main head unit have?
How are the passanger compartment speakerswired at each individual chanel? ex. are the mids and tweets in the doors wired in parallel or in series to use up only one chanel off the head unit.
Does the main head unit run at 2ohms or 4 ohms per chanel?
Same question for the subs, do they run at 2ohms or 4ohms per voice coil?
*What is the db sensativity rating for the woofers, and what is their frequency response range?
*It's a Mach 1000, boasting 1000 watts. But I assume that this is a max power rating. What is the RMS rating of the sub amps?
*How many cubic ft. does each sub enclosure contain?
What are the sizes of the stock speakers inside the passenger compartment?
I basically want to do some smart upgrading of the system while keeping as much of the stock power components as possible, but would love to have some of the questions above answered in order to know where to start and make decisions over what to keep and what to upgrade.
The questions with the asterisks are the ones I would really like to have answered, the others I could figure out as I take it all appart, but I'd rather not have to take it all appart just to decide I want to keep it and put it back in
Thanks in advance with any help on these questions.
==================
2002 GT Convertible
Racine, WI
The main head unit puts out 80watts max per channel to the speakers inside the passenger compartment. How many channels does the radio have? I don't know, but I know theres more than four speakers. There is a seperate data cable that runs a line signal to the 4 amps in the back, underneath the trunk lid. The four amps power two subwoofers. Each subwoofer is a Dual Voice coil, so each amp is basically powering each voice coil within the 2 woofers.
So my question are the following:
How many chanels does the main head unit have?
How are the passanger compartment speakerswired at each individual chanel? ex. are the mids and tweets in the doors wired in parallel or in series to use up only one chanel off the head unit.
Does the main head unit run at 2ohms or 4 ohms per chanel?
Same question for the subs, do they run at 2ohms or 4ohms per voice coil?
*What is the db sensativity rating for the woofers, and what is their frequency response range?
*It's a Mach 1000, boasting 1000 watts. But I assume that this is a max power rating. What is the RMS rating of the sub amps?
*How many cubic ft. does each sub enclosure contain?
What are the sizes of the stock speakers inside the passenger compartment?
I basically want to do some smart upgrading of the system while keeping as much of the stock power components as possible, but would love to have some of the questions above answered in order to know where to start and make decisions over what to keep and what to upgrade.
The questions with the asterisks are the ones I would really like to have answered, the others I could figure out as I take it all appart, but I'd rather not have to take it all appart just to decide I want to keep it and put it back in
Thanks in advance with any help on these questions.
==================
2002 GT Convertible
Racine, WI
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,936
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
wow, what exactly are you wanting to do? rms power rating, subwoofer enclosure specs? This is all stuff that is probably available somewhere but was only memorized by the salesmen that were trying to plug sell them 4 yrs ago... After working with the mach system for the last 10 yrs I like to think I am a little more famiar with them then most others on here but ya got me mang.......
ORIGINAL: califas_1987
I've been doing some searching but haven't been able to find too much. I was hoping somebody knew what the specifications for the Mach 1000 on a 2002 GT Convertible were and how it's wired. So far what I have managed to put together is the following... but if anybody knows better feel free to correct me.
The main head unit puts out 80watts max per channel to the speakers inside the passenger compartment. How many channels does the radio have? I don't know, but I know theres more than four speakers. There is a seperate data cable that runs a line signal to the 4 amps in the back, underneath the trunk lid. The four amps power two subwoofers. Each subwoofer is a Dual Voice coil, so each amp is basically powering each voice coil within the 2 woofers.
So my question are the following:
How many chanels does the main head unit have?
How are the passanger compartment speakerswired at each individual chanel? ex. are the mids and tweets in the doors wired in parallel or in series to use up only one chanel off the head unit.
Does the main head unit run at 2ohms or 4 ohms per chanel?
Same question for the subs, do they run at 2ohms or 4ohms per voice coil?
*What is the db sensativity rating for the woofers, and what is their frequency response range?
*It's a Mach 1000, boasting 1000 watts. But I assume that this is a max power rating. What is the RMS rating of the sub amps?
*How many cubic ft. does each sub enclosure contain?
What are the sizes of the stock speakers inside the passenger compartment?
I basically want to do some smart upgrading of the system while keeping as much of the stock power components as possible, but would love to have some of the questions above answered in order to know where to start and make decisions over what to keep and what to upgrade.
The questions with the asterisks are the ones I would really like to have answered, the others I could figure out as I take it all appart, but I'd rather not have to take it all appart just to decide I want to keep it and put it back in
Thanks in advance with any help on these questions.
==================
2002 GT Convertible
Racine, WI
I've been doing some searching but haven't been able to find too much. I was hoping somebody knew what the specifications for the Mach 1000 on a 2002 GT Convertible were and how it's wired. So far what I have managed to put together is the following... but if anybody knows better feel free to correct me.
The main head unit puts out 80watts max per channel to the speakers inside the passenger compartment. How many channels does the radio have? I don't know, but I know theres more than four speakers. There is a seperate data cable that runs a line signal to the 4 amps in the back, underneath the trunk lid. The four amps power two subwoofers. Each subwoofer is a Dual Voice coil, so each amp is basically powering each voice coil within the 2 woofers.
So my question are the following:
How many chanels does the main head unit have?
How are the passanger compartment speakerswired at each individual chanel? ex. are the mids and tweets in the doors wired in parallel or in series to use up only one chanel off the head unit.
Does the main head unit run at 2ohms or 4 ohms per chanel?
Same question for the subs, do they run at 2ohms or 4ohms per voice coil?
*What is the db sensativity rating for the woofers, and what is their frequency response range?
*It's a Mach 1000, boasting 1000 watts. But I assume that this is a max power rating. What is the RMS rating of the sub amps?
*How many cubic ft. does each sub enclosure contain?
What are the sizes of the stock speakers inside the passenger compartment?
I basically want to do some smart upgrading of the system while keeping as much of the stock power components as possible, but would love to have some of the questions above answered in order to know where to start and make decisions over what to keep and what to upgrade.
The questions with the asterisks are the ones I would really like to have answered, the others I could figure out as I take it all appart, but I'd rather not have to take it all appart just to decide I want to keep it and put it back in
Thanks in advance with any help on these questions.
==================
2002 GT Convertible
Racine, WI
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 516
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
I got a couple of assumptions about the system that if they play out I could do the following:
Upgrade the head unit to something that has a built in EQ and stronger line voltage, upgrade the frontsatge tweets and mids with a component set powered by the stock amps, and instead of having two 10 inch woofers with dual voice coils, find 4 10" woofers that are single coil and increase air movent while runing more efficiently (higher db sensitivity, and close to stock RMS handling) utilizing the same stock enclosures (plus two empty ones that I would have to find somewhere) and stock amps. Along with this add some bass blockers here and there to adjust frequencies, and hopefully have a good effecient combo of stock power and aftermarket sound control.
Upgrade the head unit to something that has a built in EQ and stronger line voltage, upgrade the frontsatge tweets and mids with a component set powered by the stock amps, and instead of having two 10 inch woofers with dual voice coils, find 4 10" woofers that are single coil and increase air movent while runing more efficiently (higher db sensitivity, and close to stock RMS handling) utilizing the same stock enclosures (plus two empty ones that I would have to find somewhere) and stock amps. Along with this add some bass blockers here and there to adjust frequencies, and hopefully have a good effecient combo of stock power and aftermarket sound control.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 135
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
yeah, get ready, many on here will you tell you to rip everything out, bypass the amps or use a wiring harness. The harnesses are alright but I found that using a "line converter" (or 4 pot) with allowed me to adjust the signals going into the stock amp made everything better in my eyes. I swapped my headunit out and kept the stock speaker and amps, one thing i ran into was that the output voltage on the aftermarketremote turn on wire is 12v while the output on the stock was 5-6v so i puttwo 1kresistors in there and that got rid of the annoying speaker pop. Though an equalizer will work just as well as the 4 pot.
If your looking for true sound quality, you will want to get rid of the Mach system all together. From what I understand, its not very good by audiophiles standards and as you said earlier, components are a good idea. Subs can simplly be wired via RCA pre-amp outputs.
If your looking for true sound quality, you will want to get rid of the Mach system all together. From what I understand, its not very good by audiophiles standards and as you said earlier, components are a good idea. Subs can simplly be wired via RCA pre-amp outputs.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,936
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
hopefully you wired those two resistors into the +12v switched on the car rather then the remote turn on new deck. That output is made to drive a relay and little more.
upgrading the deck will be no problem. I used a line driver to get the output voltage where I wanted it at and use the new alpine I installed. You do need to add some bass blockers to keep the factory tweets from exploding but after some tweeking I was suprised how much better the system sounds from stock.
Now as for adding subs to run off the factory amps it seems a little too close to putting the cart before the horse. If you do the research and match the impedences(which ford/jbl is always wacky), and manage to match the enclosures it might sound better then what you have now but there isno way to know, and more then likely it will not sound better then pushing those 4 new subs with a descent class d mono amp, or even a pair of subs. Are you wanting to try and keep the car stock? If that is the case then the work required to put in the deck as well as the new subs seems a little silly. If you are just a bored audio tweeker that has the time then great, let me know how it goes.........
upgrading the deck will be no problem. I used a line driver to get the output voltage where I wanted it at and use the new alpine I installed. You do need to add some bass blockers to keep the factory tweets from exploding but after some tweeking I was suprised how much better the system sounds from stock.
Now as for adding subs to run off the factory amps it seems a little too close to putting the cart before the horse. If you do the research and match the impedences(which ford/jbl is always wacky), and manage to match the enclosures it might sound better then what you have now but there isno way to know, and more then likely it will not sound better then pushing those 4 new subs with a descent class d mono amp, or even a pair of subs. Are you wanting to try and keep the car stock? If that is the case then the work required to put in the deck as well as the new subs seems a little silly. If you are just a bored audio tweeker that has the time then great, let me know how it goes.........
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 135
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
Well the remote turn on is switched, the only 12v constant is the 12v memory.. The resistors are paired together, the leads are twisted together at one end, three leads, input from headunit, ground and the last lead goes to the wire going into the amp, works like a charm. I forget the exacts of it, anyway, you need the remote on to get sound through the 460 unit, i believe the remote turn on powers the first amp on, then the other two amps follow in series?
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,936
From:
RE: Mach 1000 Specifications
close.
"switched" is typically a term that has to do with a wire that goes from ground to +12v with the key. The remote turn on goes to +12v when the deck is turned on so you are kinda correct. The remote turn on is a low current +12v wire that turns on with the deck, and then switches the relays in the amps on. When those relays are on, the amps then draw power from the power wires that go to the amp. All the amps are controlled by the same wire.
I recommended that you hook your voltage divider to the +12v switched that normally turns the radio on since it is able to handle a higher current demand that your circuit could be creating. This means your amps will turn on and off with the key rather then the deck, but you will not run the risk of blowing your remote turn on. Of course if it does blow you can always wire it they way I recommended and you will not loose anything. Just be aware of this if your factory subs go out.
"switched" is typically a term that has to do with a wire that goes from ground to +12v with the key. The remote turn on goes to +12v when the deck is turned on so you are kinda correct. The remote turn on is a low current +12v wire that turns on with the deck, and then switches the relays in the amps on. When those relays are on, the amps then draw power from the power wires that go to the amp. All the amps are controlled by the same wire.
I recommended that you hook your voltage divider to the +12v switched that normally turns the radio on since it is able to handle a higher current demand that your circuit could be creating. This means your amps will turn on and off with the key rather then the deck, but you will not run the risk of blowing your remote turn on. Of course if it does blow you can always wire it they way I recommended and you will not loose anything. Just be aware of this if your factory subs go out.
ORIGINAL: ghstintheshell
Well the remote turn on is switched, the only 12v constant is the 12v memory.. The resistors are paired together, the leads are twisted together at one end, three leads, input from headunit, ground and the last lead goes to the wire going into the amp, works like a charm. I forget the exacts of it, anyway, you need the remote on to get sound through the 460 unit, i believe the remote turn on powers the first amp on, then the other two amps follow in series?
Well the remote turn on is switched, the only 12v constant is the 12v memory.. The resistors are paired together, the leads are twisted together at one end, three leads, input from headunit, ground and the last lead goes to the wire going into the amp, works like a charm. I forget the exacts of it, anyway, you need the remote on to get sound through the 460 unit, i believe the remote turn on powers the first amp on, then the other two amps follow in series?
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