is my Amp Blown?
This morning I uninstalled my amp and sub to clean my trunk and when I reinstalled I plug the gnd cable into the 12v terminal and the power cable into the gnd terminal which cause the fuse to blow. I forgot to disconnect the neg from the battery. I Kept putting in new fuse until I realized I had the 2 cables mixed up. After I had the 2 cables hooked up properly my amp doesn't turn on. Does this mean the amp is blown?
I've also notice an orange/yellow spots on the power cable at both ends of the fuse adapter. Is that normal?
I've also notice an orange/yellow spots on the power cable at both ends of the fuse adapter. Is that normal?
If the amp won't turn on after you shorted it out, it could very well be a blown amp.
Check all of the fuses and get yourself a voltmeter to check the voltages and you can figure out your problem.
Check all of the fuses and get yourself a voltmeter to check the voltages and you can figure out your problem.
Theres a chance it could be.
Be sure to check your in-line fuse(should be located near your battery) and check if it's blown, or if theres scorching on either of the fuse holder terminals in that area.
After that, be sure your remote line is properly installed and is hot. You can check this by bridging a small amount of wire from your Power line to your Remote terminal.
Finally, be sure the fuse your using is the correct amperage and installed securely.
Good luck to you.
Be sure to check your in-line fuse(should be located near your battery) and check if it's blown, or if theres scorching on either of the fuse holder terminals in that area.
After that, be sure your remote line is properly installed and is hot. You can check this by bridging a small amount of wire from your Power line to your Remote terminal.
Finally, be sure the fuse your using is the correct amperage and installed securely.
Good luck to you.
The in-line fuse looks ok, but there's scorching on both ends of the fuse holder terminal. the remote line is properly installed because everything works before i took the amp and sub out of my trunk to vaccum.
ORIGINAL: y2kStangGT
The in-line fuse looks ok, but there's scorching on both ends of the fuse holder terminal. the remote line is properly installed because everything works before i took the amp and sub out of my trunk to vaccum.
The in-line fuse looks ok, but there's scorching on both ends of the fuse holder terminal. the remote line is properly installed because everything works before i took the amp and sub out of my trunk to vaccum.
A) Go buy a new fuse terminal and hook it up.
B) If your amp has a "Protect" Mode, you could by-pass the entire fuse holder by going straight from Battery to Amp and see if it works, just for a few seconds, don't keep it un-fused.
so, you're telling me the fuse terminal is messed up?
Yes, I have a kicker zx400.1 amp and it does have a protection mode.
If i decided to get a new amp. which amp should i get around the sampe price as the zx400.1.
which brand is good?
Oh yeah,.. thanks for all your help.
Yes, I have a kicker zx400.1 amp and it does have a protection mode.
If i decided to get a new amp. which amp should i get around the sampe price as the zx400.1.
which brand is good?
Oh yeah,.. thanks for all your help.
ORIGINAL: y2kStangGT
so, you're telling me the fuse terminal is messed up?
Yes, I have a kicker zx400.1 amp and it does have a protection mode.
If i decided to get a new amp. which amp should i get around the sampe price as the zx400.1.
which brand is good?
Oh yeah,.. thanks for all your help.
so, you're telling me the fuse terminal is messed up?
Yes, I have a kicker zx400.1 amp and it does have a protection mode.
If i decided to get a new amp. which amp should i get around the sampe price as the zx400.1.
which brand is good?
Oh yeah,.. thanks for all your help.
Ask PR or Seight for the price range info, I'm not too experienced with prices.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
breaking
Audio/Visual Electronics
5
Oct 2, 2015 01:27 PM
stangin1996gt
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
0
Sep 21, 2015 11:01 AM




