what kind of CAPACIToR..?
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 118
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RE: what kind of CAPACIToR..?
Why would any one reccomend to a newbie to go out an buy a 15 farad bandaid or a 40 farad bandaid? seriously, if the cars electrical system isnt up to the job of sustaining your audio system, UPGRADE THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!
1. high amp alternator. either buy one 150 amp or better, 220 if you can find and afford it, or find a good shop that re-builds alternators and talk to them about re-winding yours and boosting the amperage.
2. Battery. if you are still rockin the battery that was in your 1994 stang that the factory installed at the assembly plant, it is no wonder you are having issues with rocking the tunes. buy a new battery. over time the plates get slight ammounts of corrosion on them so that they do not make as good of contact with the fluid and then you dont get as much storage capacity. replace it with an Optima yellow top, or something like it from one of the other top manufacturers.
3. Wiring. when was the last time you took a good look at your factory battery cables? have you pulled off you Pos cable from the starter and really looked at it? I did the other day for a totally different reason, and was suprised at the lack of thickness. Im not sure what gauge it was, but it is now replaced with 1G cable. also the crimped on ends were gathering corrosion. Corrosion has this weird tendancy to inhibit electricity flow. Clean the contacts, wipe on a dab of DiElectric grease, then reassemble. better connection, and more weatherproof so corrosion won't have another chance to show up.
4. Wiring part two... Big Three. search our forum, or pretty much ANY car forum that has an electronics or Audio section and I am positive you will find a number of referances to this upgrade. Basically it is simply upgrading th wires from the Alternator output to battery positive, engine block to battery negative ground, and Chassie to battery negative ground. most factory grounds seem to be about 8G wire. I use 8G wire for my leads from my sub amp to my sub. you really think they are sufficient to ground the entire car? NO! I admit that I overcompensate. I generally run a 1G from the battery neg to block, 8G from batt neg to alternator body, and then 4G from batt neg to chassie, shock towers and tranny. think of it this way, to get better performance out of your motor you add better flowing intakes, heads and exhaust right? why not do the same to the electrical system?
yes I have a small system in my stang. but even it was enough to make my highbeams do the pulsing dance with the music at high levels. I simply did what I memtioned above, and I have NO issues with it now. If you seriously want a Cap, go ahead, but remember this: The Cap stores energy that is delivered to teh amp when the cars system is to weak to provide the amp with 13.5V or what ever your car's alt puts out. but once the Cap has pumped its juice to the amp, it then suckes juice right back out of your electrical system to refill itself. Why do you think you are supposed to use that little resistor card or lightbulb to connect it the first time? to avoid a huge power hit to the cars system as the Cap charges the first time.
1. high amp alternator. either buy one 150 amp or better, 220 if you can find and afford it, or find a good shop that re-builds alternators and talk to them about re-winding yours and boosting the amperage.
2. Battery. if you are still rockin the battery that was in your 1994 stang that the factory installed at the assembly plant, it is no wonder you are having issues with rocking the tunes. buy a new battery. over time the plates get slight ammounts of corrosion on them so that they do not make as good of contact with the fluid and then you dont get as much storage capacity. replace it with an Optima yellow top, or something like it from one of the other top manufacturers.
3. Wiring. when was the last time you took a good look at your factory battery cables? have you pulled off you Pos cable from the starter and really looked at it? I did the other day for a totally different reason, and was suprised at the lack of thickness. Im not sure what gauge it was, but it is now replaced with 1G cable. also the crimped on ends were gathering corrosion. Corrosion has this weird tendancy to inhibit electricity flow. Clean the contacts, wipe on a dab of DiElectric grease, then reassemble. better connection, and more weatherproof so corrosion won't have another chance to show up.
4. Wiring part two... Big Three. search our forum, or pretty much ANY car forum that has an electronics or Audio section and I am positive you will find a number of referances to this upgrade. Basically it is simply upgrading th wires from the Alternator output to battery positive, engine block to battery negative ground, and Chassie to battery negative ground. most factory grounds seem to be about 8G wire. I use 8G wire for my leads from my sub amp to my sub. you really think they are sufficient to ground the entire car? NO! I admit that I overcompensate. I generally run a 1G from the battery neg to block, 8G from batt neg to alternator body, and then 4G from batt neg to chassie, shock towers and tranny. think of it this way, to get better performance out of your motor you add better flowing intakes, heads and exhaust right? why not do the same to the electrical system?
yes I have a small system in my stang. but even it was enough to make my highbeams do the pulsing dance with the music at high levels. I simply did what I memtioned above, and I have NO issues with it now. If you seriously want a Cap, go ahead, but remember this: The Cap stores energy that is delivered to teh amp when the cars system is to weak to provide the amp with 13.5V or what ever your car's alt puts out. but once the Cap has pumped its juice to the amp, it then suckes juice right back out of your electrical system to refill itself. Why do you think you are supposed to use that little resistor card or lightbulb to connect it the first time? to avoid a huge power hit to the cars system as the Cap charges the first time.
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