Alright thanks, i'll let ya know how it goes when the amp gets here.

 

welcome to the forum

2.65 ohms ins the nominal impedence meaning if you hooked a meter up to it that is what it will read. That is a little different from the regular 4 ohm impedence it is listed at but all speakers
are off. Bing off by almost 1.5 ohms is a little high but you should have no problems with that speaker wired up to a 4 ohm stable amp.

The mach system has no rca output, no factory system ever does.......

page 2 of my cardomain page covers a little of the mach system. There are a number of ways to work with it depending on what you have and what you wantto do. 90% of car stereo shops will wince and tell you that you need to yank everything out, don't believe the hype...

 

6stang99... read page 2 of ttocs cardomain page. Those are the harnesses you will need for the best/ easiest setup. And he is absolutely right, 90% of audio shops will recomend what's in their best interests, not yours.

ttocs. The speakers will play at low volumes, but as soon as he turns it up, too much current is being allowed through, which causes the amp's safety shutdown. Yes, the listed impedance is just an average of the resistance of the speaker across its frequency spectrum. Average being the operating keyword here. It means that for some frequencies it will be above 2.5 Ohms, and below for others, but still the average load is less than what the amp can handle.

Maybe the difference between 4 Ohms and 2.5 Ohms doesn't sound like a lot on paper, but it means that 60% more current will move through the circuit with the smaller load, and 60% over rated capacity is not something any amp can sustain for very long.

This article series is very enlightening regarding the relation between current, voltage, resistance and power.

It's a worthwhile read for anyone in the car audio game.

 

the problem is that the stock woofers were an 8 ohm woofer so putting a 4 ohm in would upset the amps let alone anything less. This is all negated by the idea that the amp has a low pass x-over in it so you now havethat infinity tweeter being fed nothing but bass, I am suprised it sounded like anything that an installer would let leave his bay. It would not leave my bay sounding bad.

you can replace the deck as well, which every ford driver ends up doing sooner than later.

 

by the deck do you mean head unit, because i already have a DUAL unit in place of the stock one. Will I be alright after i put in that JBL amp and my last two speakers, or will I have to do more. I don't want too much audio equipment in the car. Just some nice speakers that can get loud when I want. Hopefully this will do the trick.

 

You'll be ok with that.

If the head unit has RCA outputs, you really don't need anything else. If not, just a line out converter.

 

Please list all the equpiment in the car.

If you are running a dual deck with teh stock mach amps driving your new infinity 5 x 7's then it is no wonder you are having problems. Who installed everything? You do not need that amp you need to bypass the stock amps.....

Adding an ampwill help but only AFTER you bypass the amps and then you will not really need it.

 

Not really.

Knuconceptz are some cheap decent amp kits if your looking for something that will work on a budget.

 

I have my DUAL head unit, stock amps, and the Infinity speakers just like you said. How do you bypass the amps? and do I really not need the JBL amp?

 

no you do not need that amp. Your problem is that you are running those infinity's off of the stock amp. The stock woofers are an 8 ohm impedence, causing the factory amp to shut down. You would be perfectly fine if you wired those speakers to the deck amp as infinity's are very sensative speakers that do not require alot of power.

page 2 of my cardomain page shows how to bypass the stock amps. There is a hrns in the dash that you need to find and disconnect(it is right next to the radio, I point to it on page 2). With a standard ford hnrs you can wire the speaker outputs of your dual deck to the new hrns(model# FDO2B). That hrns goes straight to your tweeters in the door. Once you have teh dual wired to the hrns, you will need to hook your infinity speakers to that tweeter wire in the door.

If you paid for any of this install I would simply take it back and tell them to fix it. It is a easy fix for an installer but will take a DIYer maybe just a little less time then it would take for then to install an amp. IF you paid for somebody to properly install the equipment you could argue that they did not do it since they should have known replacing an 8 ohm woofer with a 4 ohm driver would cause problems.......