AVIC-D3, 2007 Pony and subs
I replaced my Shaker 500 in my 2007 pony with the AVIC-D3.
Now, it seems that the subs don't put out anywhere near the bass they did while I had the Shaker 500 in. I connected the correct RCA's and, the subs do work, they just don't have the old oomph they had before.
If you have a D3, is it the same with you? If you do have good bass, any guesses on what I may have done wrong?
Now, it seems that the subs don't put out anywhere near the bass they did while I had the Shaker 500 in. I connected the correct RCA's and, the subs do work, they just don't have the old oomph they had before.
If you have a D3, is it the same with you? If you do have good bass, any guesses on what I may have done wrong?
is there no bass or is it just weak?
IF there is no bass then make sure that you connected the blue/white remote turn on from the deck to the blue/white amp turn on on the hrns side.
If the bass is weak then make sure that you have the sub output turned up. The factory amps actually use a little hotter signal where it is basically a speaker level output(high level) but in an phisical rca form. To fix this you will need to look into something called a line driver to fix this. IT is basically a rca level amp that boosts the rca signal to the 6-8v range where the factory amps are used to. You will not find these at a big box and if you are in a small town you might need to order one. I actually just quit using mine and came across it in my bottom box that I could ship for a good deal if you are not too far from AZ
IF there is no bass then make sure that you connected the blue/white remote turn on from the deck to the blue/white amp turn on on the hrns side.
If the bass is weak then make sure that you have the sub output turned up. The factory amps actually use a little hotter signal where it is basically a speaker level output(high level) but in an phisical rca form. To fix this you will need to look into something called a line driver to fix this. IT is basically a rca level amp that boosts the rca signal to the 6-8v range where the factory amps are used to. You will not find these at a big box and if you are in a small town you might need to order one. I actually just quit using mine and came across it in my bottom box that I could ship for a good deal if you are not too far from AZ
then you need to get a line driver. As I mentioned the factory amps are use to a little higher power input. It is a small piece that you can put behind the dash, just needs power and ground, input rcas and output rcas.
Well, upon further review, my subs actually aren't working. Damn. Time to look at the connections again.
If I did the resistor trick backwards, do you think it would cause the subs to not work? I don't think I did, but, who knows. Maybe I connected to the wrong rca's. Damn again.
If I did the resistor trick backwards, do you think it would cause the subs to not work? I don't think I did, but, who knows. Maybe I connected to the wrong rca's. Damn again.
Yeah, actually. a 5v voltage regulator. Got this from another post.
Shaker 500/1000 Subwoofer Popping during turn-on:
popping is due to the fact that most factory Ford stereos only send a 5 volt turn on signal to the sub amp.
All aftermarket radios have 12 volt remote outputs.
To avoid the pop, you will need to add a 12 volt to 5 volt regulator in line on the remote lead.
It can be purchased at any Radio Shack, the part number is 276-1770.
I'm think I wired it backward.
Shaker 500/1000 Subwoofer Popping during turn-on:
popping is due to the fact that most factory Ford stereos only send a 5 volt turn on signal to the sub amp.
All aftermarket radios have 12 volt remote outputs.
To avoid the pop, you will need to add a 12 volt to 5 volt regulator in line on the remote lead.
It can be purchased at any Radio Shack, the part number is 276-1770.
I'm think I wired it backward.


