Looking for some bass
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 16
From: Georgia
RE: Looking for some bass
I got 2 Rockford Fosgate Punch 2 8" Subs for sale if you're interested. They're Brand New, I ordered the Dual Voice Coils instead of the Single and the company I bought 'em from wouldn't take a return w/o a 15% restock fee. So I figured I'd check to see if you forum guys may be interested
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 141
From: Palm Bay, FL
RE: Looking for some bass
I just took a Bazooka 10" dual Voicecoil tube out of my ride and put in an Old School JL Audio 12w6... I had the tube in my truck for a while then moved it to the Mach.. It sounds good if you're not looking for a whole lot. 2 would have been great but I had the JL laying around, and all it needed was a refoam.. Anyway long story short The tube sounded good it just wasn't enuff for me
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
Please tell me you haven't purchased any of that yet....
With $400 you can do about 100000X better then the equipment already mentioned. if you are only looking for bass, this would be a nice setup for the money...
Amp: http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/7382 $175 (Not quite the rated power but good power for the money)
Subs: 2X http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=31 $200 total Dual 2 ohm.
If you wire the subs to 2 ohm final load and build your own box you will have a very nice setup. Spending around $150 more on some 13Ov2's would really make a nice setup.
You could actually pick up an amp like this...
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...&idproduct=478 $99 and do great power wise for the subs as well but leave yourself less room for upgrade.
With $400 you can do about 100000X better then the equipment already mentioned. if you are only looking for bass, this would be a nice setup for the money...
Amp: http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/7382 $175 (Not quite the rated power but good power for the money)
Subs: 2X http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=31 $200 total Dual 2 ohm.
If you wire the subs to 2 ohm final load and build your own box you will have a very nice setup. Spending around $150 more on some 13Ov2's would really make a nice setup.
You could actually pick up an amp like this...
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...&idproduct=478 $99 and do great power wise for the subs as well but leave yourself less room for upgrade.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 634
From: GA
Thread Title is looking for SOME bass, Not looking for bass that will shake the car apart.
Plus doing something like that with 2 12s in an old car(i figure the car in the pic is what it is goin in) like that you better dynamat the trunk, bc everything will rattle.
The amp is a nice hifonics amp and i have only heard go things about them. I buddy works for a boat place that does boat audio and hifonics is all they use for amps unless someone wants something different.
Plus doing something like that with 2 12s in an old car(i figure the car in the pic is what it is goin in) like that you better dynamat the trunk, bc everything will rattle.
The amp is a nice hifonics amp and i have only heard go things about them. I buddy works for a boat place that does boat audio and hifonics is all they use for amps unless someone wants something different.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,447
From:
Thread Title is looking for SOME bass, Not looking for bass that will shake the car apart.
Plus doing something like that with 2 12s in an old car(i figure the car in the pic is what it is goin in) like that you better dynamat the trunk, bc everything will rattle.
The amp is a nice hifonics amp and i have only heard go things about them. I buddy works for a boat place that does boat audio and hifonics is all they use for amps unless someone wants something different.
Plus doing something like that with 2 12s in an old car(i figure the car in the pic is what it is goin in) like that you better dynamat the trunk, bc everything will rattle.
The amp is a nice hifonics amp and i have only heard go things about them. I buddy works for a boat place that does boat audio and hifonics is all they use for amps unless someone wants something different.
Do you have any expereince in car audio at all? What about in classics?
You are telling me that the original poster should spend more and get poorer quality equipment. What type of advice is that?
Hifonics are OK amps. They do not produce thier rated power and one of the many I have installed actually caught on fire when we first powered it up due to a defect.
I have a minor system installed in my classic, a 65, that consists of a lot of leftover parts from other stereos i have completed. My 65 rattles the same as any other car and sound deadening is neccessary for just about any vehicle.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 128
From:
if your looking for cheap but quality look at infinity reference have 2 twelves cost me 99 bucks for both and it beats my friends 2 10w3 jls and his cost 4 times as much and i have had them for about 3 years with no problems cant beat them
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 462
From: Billings, MT
Depending on what "some bass" is to you, there are many options. If you can build your own box then you have a lot more options over a prefab enclosure.
I would stick to the better brands personally, but usually the better brands will cost you more. I have been out of the business professionally for about 10 years, and a lot has changed, but many of the "good" brands are still good. From personal experience here is what I would recommend:
If you listen to rock and just want to fill in the bass on a basic system with head unit power to the speakers, then I would recommend a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure (ported if you want a little more punch in the bass). For brands, I would stick with either Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio for a sub. The JL 10W1 and the Rockford Punch series are great sounding subs with decent power handling and require small enclosures. They are also entry level so they are usually under $100. For an amplifier, use a small D class or a A/B 2 channel amp, preferably around 150-200 watts total power at 2 ohms. Choose your amp before making your speaker selection as you will need to match the impedence of the speaker to the stability of the amplifier. If you get a small D class mono amp it will likely be 2 ohm stable, but its one channel, so you want a dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer that you can wire the 2 coils in parallel to get 2 ohms. If you get a small 2 channel you will be bridging it to one channel, so the amp will see half the impedence of the load. That means that if the amp is 2 ohm stable, then you want to use a single 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer (or dual 2 ohm coil in series).
If you listen to deep bass music or just want a little more bass, then a single 12" or 2 10" subs will fit the bill. I recommend no less than 150 watts per sub, so purchase an amplifier accordingly. Keep impedence in mind as amplifiers are rated at 4 ohms and usually 2 ohms as well, with the lower impedence pulling more power (ie a 100 watt amp is usually 200 watts at 2 ohms). A ported enclosure will net 3db more bass than a sealed, and will amplify the bass at the tuned frequency. A sealed enclosure will be smoother with deep bass extension and better power handling, but not as loud.
As far as amplifiers go, there are a number of good ones out there. I recommend any of the newer Rockford Fosgate (this model year) or Rockford Fosgate gear from the 90's. JL's new D class amps are supposedly real powerhouses, but a little expensive. Older (from the 1990's) amps in Soundstream, Kicker, MTX, Zapco, PPI, US Amps, Orion, and a couple others are always a good bet, if you can trust buying used. Hifonics made good stuff in the early 90's as well, but went cheap later on. Buying the "japanese" brands in amps is not a good deal in my opinion. They were always a little weak on power and kind of expensive, so I would avoid Alpine, Kenwood, Sony, Pioneer, Clarion, etc. These are all similarly designed amplifiers. There are a number of budget brands out there, and sadly some of the good brands from 10 years ago have slipped into the budget class. Budget amplifiers usually way overrate their power output and have very cheap power supplies so not only do they fail to deliver the power you need, they also tend to drop out on dynamic music, pick up a lot of noise from the vehicle, and have a higher failure rate. I don't have much experience with the newer Kicker, MTX, or even SoundStream or PPI. (PPI is owned by DEI now, as is Orion, so I classify these amps in the midrange. I have a couple Soundstream amplifiers from about 4 years ago, and they are impressive, but I have read that in the last 4 years they have gotten cheap. There are also a few newer high end brands I did not mention, but if you are looking for a "little" bass you probably don't want to look that direction..
Bottom line, you can get a good 300 watt "true power" amplifer from Rockford Fosgate on ebay for less than $200. I would put something like that up against most "1000 watt" cheap amplifiers on the market.
Nice thing about a 300 watt or smaller amp is you can get away with running 10 ga power wire to it, so your wiring costs will be around $20 or $30 for power, fuse, ground, and RCA cord. $35 in materials will get you a sub enclosure if you can make your own, so you can easily end up with quality equipment, decent bass, and still be well under $400.
FYI: 1 10" sub has almost the cone volume of 2 8" subs. 1 12" sub has slightly less cone volume than 2 10" subs. Doubling your cone volume or doubling your power will get you 3db, or "twice as loud". Also, going from a sealed enclosure to a ported enclosure will net you 3db, as will going from a ported enclosure to a band-pass enclosure, however, power handling goes down as the order of enclosure goes up. A typical 10" sub will require about 1 cubic foot of volume for a sealed enclosure. Some require as little as .33 cubic feet and some as much as 2 cubic feet. Size the woofer according to your physical restrictions as well as your taste in music.
I would stick to the better brands personally, but usually the better brands will cost you more. I have been out of the business professionally for about 10 years, and a lot has changed, but many of the "good" brands are still good. From personal experience here is what I would recommend:
If you listen to rock and just want to fill in the bass on a basic system with head unit power to the speakers, then I would recommend a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure (ported if you want a little more punch in the bass). For brands, I would stick with either Rockford Fosgate or JL Audio for a sub. The JL 10W1 and the Rockford Punch series are great sounding subs with decent power handling and require small enclosures. They are also entry level so they are usually under $100. For an amplifier, use a small D class or a A/B 2 channel amp, preferably around 150-200 watts total power at 2 ohms. Choose your amp before making your speaker selection as you will need to match the impedence of the speaker to the stability of the amplifier. If you get a small D class mono amp it will likely be 2 ohm stable, but its one channel, so you want a dual 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer that you can wire the 2 coils in parallel to get 2 ohms. If you get a small 2 channel you will be bridging it to one channel, so the amp will see half the impedence of the load. That means that if the amp is 2 ohm stable, then you want to use a single 4 ohm voice coil subwoofer (or dual 2 ohm coil in series).
If you listen to deep bass music or just want a little more bass, then a single 12" or 2 10" subs will fit the bill. I recommend no less than 150 watts per sub, so purchase an amplifier accordingly. Keep impedence in mind as amplifiers are rated at 4 ohms and usually 2 ohms as well, with the lower impedence pulling more power (ie a 100 watt amp is usually 200 watts at 2 ohms). A ported enclosure will net 3db more bass than a sealed, and will amplify the bass at the tuned frequency. A sealed enclosure will be smoother with deep bass extension and better power handling, but not as loud.
As far as amplifiers go, there are a number of good ones out there. I recommend any of the newer Rockford Fosgate (this model year) or Rockford Fosgate gear from the 90's. JL's new D class amps are supposedly real powerhouses, but a little expensive. Older (from the 1990's) amps in Soundstream, Kicker, MTX, Zapco, PPI, US Amps, Orion, and a couple others are always a good bet, if you can trust buying used. Hifonics made good stuff in the early 90's as well, but went cheap later on. Buying the "japanese" brands in amps is not a good deal in my opinion. They were always a little weak on power and kind of expensive, so I would avoid Alpine, Kenwood, Sony, Pioneer, Clarion, etc. These are all similarly designed amplifiers. There are a number of budget brands out there, and sadly some of the good brands from 10 years ago have slipped into the budget class. Budget amplifiers usually way overrate their power output and have very cheap power supplies so not only do they fail to deliver the power you need, they also tend to drop out on dynamic music, pick up a lot of noise from the vehicle, and have a higher failure rate. I don't have much experience with the newer Kicker, MTX, or even SoundStream or PPI. (PPI is owned by DEI now, as is Orion, so I classify these amps in the midrange. I have a couple Soundstream amplifiers from about 4 years ago, and they are impressive, but I have read that in the last 4 years they have gotten cheap. There are also a few newer high end brands I did not mention, but if you are looking for a "little" bass you probably don't want to look that direction..
Bottom line, you can get a good 300 watt "true power" amplifer from Rockford Fosgate on ebay for less than $200. I would put something like that up against most "1000 watt" cheap amplifiers on the market.
Nice thing about a 300 watt or smaller amp is you can get away with running 10 ga power wire to it, so your wiring costs will be around $20 or $30 for power, fuse, ground, and RCA cord. $35 in materials will get you a sub enclosure if you can make your own, so you can easily end up with quality equipment, decent bass, and still be well under $400.
FYI: 1 10" sub has almost the cone volume of 2 8" subs. 1 12" sub has slightly less cone volume than 2 10" subs. Doubling your cone volume or doubling your power will get you 3db, or "twice as loud". Also, going from a sealed enclosure to a ported enclosure will net you 3db, as will going from a ported enclosure to a band-pass enclosure, however, power handling goes down as the order of enclosure goes up. A typical 10" sub will require about 1 cubic foot of volume for a sealed enclosure. Some require as little as .33 cubic feet and some as much as 2 cubic feet. Size the woofer according to your physical restrictions as well as your taste in music.
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