Post as much as you want drod, more the better. How much did u spend w/ this new system? Would it make sense to replace it w/ a new stock speaker or sub if that is the problem?

 

Well you have to figure out what is buzzing first. If you don't want to replace your speakers just yet and are being inclined to do so due to this "buzzing," I would try to figure out where the buzzing is coming from.

Try pressing on various interior trim pieces to see if the vibration stops. On some cars the piece that holds the window up/down switch has been known to "buzz."

I would doubt your speakers are already "blown." I would bet there is a high chance its something vibrating. You could always add some dynamat to your doors.

I am upgrading my system because I like to modify things and I want this radio to be able to play loud and clear. All together I have spent $200 bucks on speakers plus a $400 amp for just the front doors. I have choosen to "delete" the rear speakers of the car because they aren't necessary if your fronts are properly configured.

Front doors to replace 6x8 speakers: - replacing with Infinity Kappa 50.9cs component system. These take 85w rms a piece. $125 bucks online someplace

Front doors to replace 8in subs: - replacing with Kicker SSM6s. These take about 125w rms a piece. $65 bucks online.

I am using a JL Audio 450/4 to power them. You can find these for anywhere between $350 and 700$ depending if they are new or used.

These will handle the midbass midrange and treble. I plan to add two 10in subwoofers in the trunk later down the road for sub-bass.

I'm attaching some more pics of the kickers and their adapters I made.

 

Here is a useful document. Provides directions on how to troubleshoot your Mustang audio system.

Might help you pinpoint some problems. I am specifically referring to the Shaker self test that it performs.

http://www.swaaggs.com/documents/200...iagnostics.pdf

 

wow........... really? 36 pages? VERY complete instructions....

 

yeah I know....I believe this is an excerpt from the Manual that the techs use at Ford Dealerships.

 

interesting.. were those pics of the shaker 500 or 1000? I replaced the front 6x8's with components when i bought mine, and the stockers were nothing like the enclosed ones you pulled out! no enclosure--just a shallow 6x8 driver with tweeter mounted in the plastic grill above it. Reads 50W 4ohm -- must be a max. Mine is a sh 500 by the way. As for your problem johnnyv8 i would have someone diagnose the problem (if you are unable) before throwing money at it. That could be a head problem, just a bad connection either at the head or speaker, or a bad speaker. Worth the time and money to find out which before throwing parts at it! I too am toying with the idea of replacing the head unit with a Pioneer unit that is the same size as stock (If you decide to go new head unit johnny check the Pioneer out--looks very close to OEM) simply to have pre-outs again and blue tooth added. I sold Alpine head and amps when i traded for this car--wanted to keep it simple and stock appearing with similar-quality sound as I had with complete aftermarket setup in T/A. I need to know how the 500 is setup. Does the head power the four corners and only the door subs have a separate amp, or are more speakers on a factory amp? Seems that sending the factory amp the amplified signal from an aftermarket head would eventually damage it. I would like to keep the door subs, not replace them, and not add an additional amplifier to power them.

 

Another thought for o.p.--you said 'static' that made me think electric noise; but I had a buzz for a while that ended up being a coin that had somhow slipped into the door panel. Had to take the window switch bezel that thedrod mentioned out and look hard to find it. Some long needle-nose pliers accomplished the extraction..for free. No more buzz. hope this helps!

 

That should be a mean system dredrod! Hope to see more pics as it progresses! I have A/D/S 6.5" components in the doors w/Eclipse 100w x 2 rms. I mounted the drivers in the 6x8 location and flush mounted tweeters just to the left of the grill opening on the outside of the door panel--looks as if it came that way. Then 2 12" eclipse subs with 1000w rms. Sounds great, but wish i could get those amps some undistorted signal. Hope you guys don't mind all the chatter..just tell me to shut up or start a new thread if you do