Thanks, derf00, for singling me (and sick95gt) out as not being total idiots. And I stand by my claim that my 60W amp powers my 10" sub better than most high-wattage systems out there (quality-wise, of course). Most amps' and speakers' RMS ratings refer to peak output and peak input: this is similar to EPA gas mileage ratings - o.k. under ideal circumstances. But music isn't "ideal": a heavy bass note or swell in high frequencies pushes amps and speakers beyond their limits, exponentially. Sure, you could compress the dynamics, but then you wouldn't hear the music the way it was intended to be heard. Not to mention anything synthesized. See if any of the cheaper brands even publish a "continuous rms" input/output level. I doubt it. "Continuous RMS," BTW, refers to sine waves created by a generator found in a Physics Lab, not the output of a lame car amp or the projected input of a speaker. The ability of an electronic system to reproduce these sine waves at the amplitude (i.e. size or volume) intended without being "cut off" at higher and lower ranges (clipping) determines its quality. Here's how it works: imagine a high wave in the ocean and the water being pushed: part of the wave is high and part low, in height, and it pushes a certain amount of water onto the beach. If that same wave was shorter and the same amount of water was headed for the beach, it would strike with a higher force (logical, right?); now think of all that water being pushed through a garden hose. This is exactly what happens with "clipping." The same amount of energy, pushed through a lower threshold, will hit at a higher level, higher enough to push speakers beyond their capabilities. (so how am I doing, bd5034 and stones? and derf and sick?) What it all boils down to is this: you get what you pay for, or less. Like anything else, quality (and absolute quality) costs. It makes no difference whether you try to drive a sub or 2 subs with one amp or two: it depends on the quality of the amp(s) and the sub(s). And the ohms don't really matter either, provided the amp is able to put out quality wattage at the given impedence. So, IMHO, I went with the champ - McIntosh, all the way around, and I challenge anyone to beat it!

 

i have pretty much those same subs and i have mine running in 2 ohms and im running 900 watts rms and it is insane and you can get two amps but get one amp thats mono thats like 1000 rms and it will pound.

 

I also agree with gotmineNov04 I run an Adcom amp(anyone who knows home theater should know this name) its rated at 75x4 and can be brdiged down to 600x1 and can drive as low as .1 ohms....now thats an incredible amp. This amp was around $3000 new but i was lucky enough to find it at a tent sale for $40 due to missing connectors to hook it up. Quality is everything, the amp has a mesh cover and you can see how many capacitors are lined up in its over 30" long casing. Why so big for a low power amp? The amp has quality components.

 

Agreed, Derf00; my amps will produce more than rated output at 12V, which, the last time I looked, is the same as the car battery. No dimming lights, no caps. Read the fine print: ratings at other than at 12V are BS as are "peak" power ratings. Get the real stuff!

 

lol so i guess if i use the external voltage regulator on my ohio generator alternator and crank up the voltage to 14.4 volts, then i won't get extra wattage? i actually read this whole thread and yes the majority of the information here is BS. what not audio savvy ppl fail to realize is that many of us run electrical systems that are capable of running up to 17 volts. therefore when an amp is rated at 2000wrms at 14.4 then that number is easily achieved. on the other hand, daily driver cars with no electrical mods would struggle greatly to use big power amps such as an Orion 2500 or Crossfire 4000. if you guys want some tips or education on car audio, go to caraudio.com as previously stated. anyone can sit there and rattle off acoustic and 12volt technical babble that they read somewhere but for those of us who design, install and maintain our own equipment, we know the deal.

 

all i have to say is that i have learned a great deal about boxes. you can have excellent subs, but the minute you put them in a box that already a box. your system will suck. when you go to a place and have a box built for your subs, you will rule all. i went to best buy and got a deal on some really crappy subs, buy one get one for 80 bucks. i then went to a best friend and had him build me a box. once again, i went to a best friend, and he charged me 300 bucks for a box. but ill tell you what, i will never regret it. that system will beat out half of the systems from around my way. cause they have really good equiptment, but have a piece of shiznit box.

 

just to let u know its bad to underpower ur system... and if its a amp for under a $100 for 1000 wtts its probly not a very good amp... i would recomend to get somthing to power them between ur rms and max because its better to beable to over power ur subs than under power.... underpowering just makes ur voice coils go out all the time...

 

[font="Trebuchet MS"]Just a couple of things that fail to get mentioned in all of these discusions.
1. A subwoofer does infact change its impedance with each position of the voice coil with in the magnet structure. A sub woofers Ohm rating is an average amount shown to an amplifier at approximately 1000hz. Some manufacturers do this testing at 100hz to more accurately reveal the subwoofers rating in real world use.
2. Has any one here heard of something called damping factor? Go here for an excelent description: http://www.classic-audio.com/marantz...ingfactor.html or type "damping factor" into google and see what happens.
For those that just want a brief explanation:
Damping factor is the ability of an amplifier to control the speaker it is connected to. Most low dollar amplifiers have low damping factors, there fore a lower ability to control the speaker. When you reduce the load presented to the amp by lowering the ohm load (bridging your speakers) you also lower the damping factor.
Get where this is going?
It is true that a low cost peice of equipment can sound better than the high dollar stuff if it is installed properly and the better equipment is not. But wouldnt you want better quality equipment installed properly to just blow everybody away? Trust me, it is not impressive to be able to hear a car from 10 blocks away if you cant stand to listen to it while your in it.

Just my $0.02

 

yeah i got two 12in directed there 4 ohm but they hit super hard theyre for comp. really nice but 1 ohm is the best.

 

actualy it depends on the sub too.