Question on subwoofers
I got my audiobahns today and noticed something. The peak is 1,100 watts each which I don't know if that is actually good, but the RMS is 550 watts. They run 4 ohms, is that better then 1 ohm or what?
The rms is what matters its the true wattage. The lower the ohm the harder the subs will hit, most subs are 8 and 4 ohm. Some subs come in 2 and can be bridged to 1 ohm which gives the best power. But I say that you got a pretty good setup, go with a amp thats at least 1000 watts and it should be good
Yeah, I was going to get a 1,000 watt 2 channel amp, are only like $84. I want to keep them under their RMS so I can like blast them as hard as the amp will go but not blow them. Mine might even be bale to go 2 ohms, I think it's 2, 4 and 8. I guess its a single 4 ohm coil but can do 2 ohm and 8 ohm operation and 4 ohm sterio? Duno, I have the audiobahn AW121T Flame sub woofer, 12". If you wanna check it out and tell me what you think or if I could get 2 ohms I would be more then greatful. I just want them to kick good, like to the point where people can hear them before I pull up next to them, say maybe 50 ft away atleast.
You'll get the best sound if you run a seperate amp to each sub, so you'll have 2 amps each powering its own sub, that will give it the best kick. But yeah those are pretty good subs. To get the most power out of them run 2 500 watt rms MONO amps not 2 channel then those things will thump
and I dont think they can go 2 ohm but 4 is good so i'd just stick with that....
and I dont think they can go 2 ohm but 4 is good so i'd just stick with that....
What if I took the Xplode XM-2200GTX (500 watt MRS at 4 ohm(when bridged)) and bridged to one subwoofer, would that still work like a 1 channel amp?
Because I'm having a hard time at finding a 1 channel amp at 500 RMS that isn't like $300.
Because I'm having a hard time at finding a 1 channel amp at 500 RMS that isn't like $300.
for the money and xcellent amp with nice watts try this
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...19&idproduct=3
one of the better brands on market.. and nice price. And if you pay less than 200 for an amp you aint gonna like it.
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductC...19&idproduct=3
one of the better brands on market.. and nice price. And if you pay less than 200 for an amp you aint gonna like it.
ORIGINAL: Jimmz
The rms is what matters its the true wattage. The lower the ohm the harder the subs will hit, most subs are 8 and 4 ohm. Some subs come in 2 and can be bridged to 1 ohm which gives the best power. But I say that you got a pretty good setup, go with a amp thats at least 1000 watts and it should be good
The rms is what matters its the true wattage. The lower the ohm the harder the subs will hit, most subs are 8 and 4 ohm. Some subs come in 2 and can be bridged to 1 ohm which gives the best power. But I say that you got a pretty good setup, go with a amp thats at least 1000 watts and it should be good
4OHM subwoofers give excellent tight response and will give you better defined bass. 2 or 1ohm setups, though they allow higher power output with the same equipment, will have very muddy bass. If all you care about is boomy bass with no definition and the amp can handle it, then 2ohm is good. Otherwise for distinct bass you need a 4ohm hookup. Keep in mind at 2 or 1 ohm, your amp will be roasting, be sure to give it plenty of air!
Another good rule of thumb is you want approximatly twice the amount of power for subs as what your sattelites are pushing. In other words, if your component speakers or door and dash speakers are pushing 500 watts total, then 1000 is what you want for your subs.
xxX Hefty Xxx
As far as your question for bridging: It's perfectly fine to use a 2 channel amp bridged to one channel to run a sub. Just make sure it can handle what the total OHM load is going to be. The reason a MONO amp was recommended is that there is some inherent noise (crosstalk) caused when you bridge a 2 channel amp. You will basically be connecting a '+' from one channel and the '-' of the other channel to your sub.
Last thing, You always want to get an amp that has a higher RMS than your speakers can handle. The reason is, if you push your amp to it's limits, you will cause it to start clipping as it will overheat and possibly damage itself or the speaker. Clipping is when the amp starts cutting out either the power or frequency response because you've pushed it too hard. It's like hitting a rev limiter on your car. Not a good idea to run it like that all the time. And trust me, it doesn't take much to be heard 50ft away. Take your time and build a good system that will last not one that will have a melt down.
Add: A single 10 inch installed within an enclosure designed specifically for it and a less powerful highend amp will sound better and get louder than a couple of 12's thrown in a box using a cheap 'powerful' amp.
Very well put, Derf00: too many people don't understand clipping and think they blow speakers by overpowering them when actually they are damaged by underpowering them. A decent speaker will handle well above its rated input as long as it's clean, undistorted power. And a good amp will put out far above its rated output in continuous RMS/channel well below clipping level. In simple terms, it's quality vs. quantity that's important. I have a bridged 2 x 30wpc McIntosh amp powering my single 10" sub in a sealed box, and I'd put the quality up against almost any 1000w amp/sub combo out there! Good call.


