I need to know are the factory door subs crossoved over at the amp or at the output at the factory adio??

Does anybody know what freq they are crossed over at?

 

they are crossed over in the amp. Not sure what freq, maybe 80-100 hz?

 

My shaker 500 I have in my 2006 Mustang sucks!

I do NVH testing and have been in several 2007 mustangs with the shaker 500 system and they sound better, the headunits must have changed when they went to the with aux input etc.

I am planning on putting a max395vd clarion head unit in and running the door subs off the front low level output of the radio this will leave the sub out to control my MTX selfpowered sub. I don't want to tie these together for sub control that is why I needed to know where the crossover point was so I don't have to install inline lowpass filter.

Right now I am going to run with stock speakers, I tried some boston S85 speakers and the they where too efficent and tinney, this only allowed me to turn volume up about half way on my stock head unit and could not balance the door subs. BLAH BLAH BLAH

I am not going to gut the system and add amps etc, I am hoping the head unit will give me the control I need that I don't have on my trunk sub at the moment from using high level inputs from my stock head unit.

IF YOU HAVE COMMENTS FEEL FREE TO ADD :-)

 

nvh testing?

What did you hook the bostons up to as far as to power them?

 

Nosie and Vibration Harshness (NVH)

I hooked the bostons up to the stock head unit, they where 92 dB at 1 watt so the door subs would not perform because i could not go above half on the volume. I would need to go with a less effecient speaker I guess if I wanted to power from a head unit and retain factory door subs. I put the stock speakers back in to keep the balance becasue the bostons did not do it for me.

I just ordered Clarion max385vd from crutchfield, they have a 30 day return no questions asked, I am going to give it a shot with stock speakers and the addtion of my MTX thunderform in the trunk.

The best way is to gut the system and start from scratch but I don't what to go that path even though it is probably the only why to fix everything 100%. If I can get sub control for my thunderform MTX from the headunit and not have the bass rolloff like the factory head unit has when the volume is turned up It will be fine.

I am using high level inputs for the MTX sub and it is muddy and don't have enough control. The damn gain and crossover adjustments are on the back of the box and is formed to fit in the corner of the trunk. To adjust I have to remove the sub, unbolt the box, put the sub back in, adjust the settings, and reverse the process to secure the damn thing down. I figured MTX would have put the adjustments where you could get to them to tune quickly on the fly or have a remote crossover to meet the needs of different music.

My concerns where about the crossover since i am going to use the sub out for my MTX sub and the front low level with PAC adaptor to give the door subs a signal. The only problem I forsee is that I will have a gain problem from using the Aftermarket headunit to power the factory door speakers and then using the factory amps to power the subs. This will be trial and error so thus is why I did overpay through crutchfield incase this fails.

Will give feedback when I see where this leads...

 

I replaced the 4 5x7 with 2way bostons in the rear and 3 way polks in the front. I added a mono kicker amp and a 12 inch old school audiao art sub with a coustic crossover. Believe adding this makes a huge difference! I left the mid bass on the doors stock with factory headunit. I highly recommend this to anyone you wont be disappointed. The only thing that sucks is that when you turn on the car there is a popping sound of the amp turning on through the sub.

 

POPPING FIX IF YOU ARE USING AFTERMARKET RADIO

http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/cgi-...i=&p_topview=1

That is funny the stock radio used a 5v singnal and that turns your 12V amp on?


Like I mentioned I must have a bum radio or something because mine really sucks, I am starting to think I should have had the dealer check the programming of the radio which can be done thought the can bus.

There was a case recently where the company I work at released 1000 units (cars) that did not have the sub turned on correctly in the radio programing through the can bus. This would suck since it was the nav with prem sound, either you would not care or you be at the dealer bitching that your radio sucks.


When I swap head units I will see what is up and give you some feedback. if I can get sub control from the headunit and a bit clearer signal to my sub and other speakers I will be happy. I don't mind putting in different speakers but I want to stay away from adding extra amps.


Car has been a pain in my *** anyways 2006 Saleen S281SC 525 BHP, I have had a list of issues that I finally got cleared up with Saleen last year and am now just doing a few final touches.

I also have a 2003 Lingenfelter Z06 (Garage Queen) that I have been tring to sell but the market sucks right now. Good part is it is 450 RWHP and still showroom new with only 12K on the ticker, so if anybody wants a sweet Z06 I have one for 36K with about 70K invested.

 

so you hooked those bostons up to the signal that was going to your tweeter or the signal that was going to the woofer? Either way it would have sounded bad because you are driving a full range speaker off of a signal that was x-over. The speakers are probably fine and would sound great when you replace the factory radio. At this point if you have the bostons, and a powered sub I would scrub the factory woofers and go with the bostons.

 

You have PM

 

why don't we keep it on here man I have a hard time keeping up with the multiple pms knowing what each car has and needs.