This is a bit long and complicated so I apologize for my inability to explain myself concisely.

I'm getting Pioneer AVH-P3100DVD for cheap and wish to install it into my 2006 V6 Mustang to replace the Shaker 500 head unit (crutchfield said I could! with a PAC Radio Replacement Interface)

I'm on a low budget so I figured I'd get this cheap and install it myself since the local place said it would be an 800$ job. No. Just no. So I need to know if I'm doing the correctly before I invest money and time into it.

I'm somewhat noobish to car audio, installed a sub/amp combo in my old car with little problems after following guides online. Plan to do the same here, although I understand it will be a bit more complicated.

The complicated part is that I also wish to add a sub(RF 400watt ), amp(I think this RF 600watt), with custom built box into my trunk. Now I've put off adding this into my car for a while after reading how complicated it is to add a trunk-sub+amp while still letting my factory 8" subs work in my side door off of the two factory amps. I am perfectly happy with the Shaker system as is and figured I would wait to perform that complicated install when I replaced the head unit.

Ultimate goal: Pioneer dvd head unit, working factory speakers and door subs, added sub/amp for extra bass in the trunk. All sounding good, synced, and properly powered.

I'm going by this (http://savkomedia.com/kevin/Index4.asp) guide.
So I think this is what I need to buy???: 4 gauge wiring kit, The Soundgate LOCB.2, PAC Radio Replacement Interface, and maybe a 12v trigger and capacitor?

Steps:
1. Take out Shaker 500 Head Unit.
2. Install Pioneer Head Unit with PAC Radio Replacement
3. Follow instructions on savkomedia.com on how to connect another amp through the current pre-amps(using LOCB.2) and wiring through firewall for power.

Questions:

The guide recommends a capacitor (farad digital stiffening cap). I've heard mixed thoughts on capacitors and its necessity. Do I really need one? Is it worth it?

The guide recommends a 12v toggle switch to turn off the system when not in use. He states the car battery will drain. My previous sub/amp install did not require a trigger and did not sap power. Would this be due to the capacitor? I'm just wondering if I really need to complicate this project more with such an item.

Does changing the head unit effect the shaker 500 amps powering the 8" door subs? I like to think that the PAC radio replacement thing will just switch out the head units without effecting the side-subs and the wiring therein, but I might just be optimistic...?

So let me have it. Will this even sound good? Does my wish for a touch-screen DVD player with a bit more bass in the trunk and still-working subs in the door seem realistic? Or am I insanely naive in the car audio department?

 

if you are replacing the factory radio, forget the LOC and just run rca wires and a remote turn on from the deck to the amp..

 

get the proper metra wiring harness with a 5 volt regulator to keep ur door subs working, wire the remote and rcas for ur new amp straight to the headunit, this isnt that hard

 

Can he get power from the in-console 12v lighter or does he need to go straight from battery? Does it depend on the amps needed?

Also, if the new stereo has pre-amps out then a rear amp/speaker is the easy part...

 

Thanks for the tips, I'm glad it's a bit easier since I'm replacing the headunit.

And would I be able to use the 12v lighter? I imagine that would make things a bit easier instead of having to go through the firewall.

That guide certainly uses a more powerful amp than I'm using..

 

amplifier power wires will need to go to the battery, and be fused with in 12" of the battery. No exceptions.......

 

WHAT? Are you serious?


Like ttocs said TO THE BATTERY AND FUSED! Throught the firewall, not goin throught the door jam. I know you said you were goin throught the firewall but just wanted to reintergate that.

 

Ha, thanks for the confirmation, it did sound strange.

Does this wiring harness not have a 5v regulator? If not I have no idea what I'm looking for on the metra site. I went by crutchfield recommendation.

Sorry for all the newbie questions, I appreciate no one calling me an idiot yet. \/\/

Edit: also reading around this site, I think I found a much cheaper alternative here maybe? Last time I replaced a head unit, there was only one wiring harness to chose from...

Edit2: reading around this site again, I've found you can get a cheap 5v regulator from radio shack for like 2 bucks. Is this what I would need with one of the aforementioned wiring harnesses?

 

you can use the regulator or a simple resistor on the turn on wire to get the 5v needed but that is all you should need. Harnesses have always had a huge mark up on them even though they only cost a couple of bucks each.