So, when I bought my stang 3 yrs ago, I put in a Sony deck. Installed subs/amp like I do on everything I drive lol. I saw something about having to bypass the factory amps for mids/highs, but I never had to, as everything worked after the install. Just bought a harness kit, no other kits/adapters/anything. Kept that deck in until a couple weeks ago. Put it in my new truck, and decided to toss a different sony deck in the Mustang and sell it. Put the new deck in tonight and have no mids/highs. the subs (my aftermaket subs) still work, but no door speakers. I checked all the fuses, wiggled all the harnesses to and from the amps, used a spare speaker to test the deck's internal amp (it works.) I'm planning on selling, so I REALLY don't want to go to the trouble of re-wiring all the speakers, but it's not a real selling point that there are no words to your music haha. Are there any hidden fuses (besides under the dash and under the hood), harnesses that are prone to falling off, anything like that? The whole system worked when I parked it 2 months ago. I haven't done anything with it until tonight. Tried to search but didn't find anything on here. Any help would be appreciated.

2000 GT
Sony (forget the model, middle-class type) Head Unit
Factory cabin amps & speakers
Aftermarket amp/subs

 

Make sure your factory amp remote wire did not come un attached.

 

where is it/what does it look like?

only loose wires I have are the harness that connected the factory tape deck to the factory cd receiver and what looks like a ground wire (black with a female spade connector on each end) but both of those are disconnected completely. I looked for the other harnesses that they had in the earlier sn-95 bodies for the regular (not mach) stereo but I dont have them in my car.

 

can you get a pic of how you wired it so I can tell which harness you used?

 

well, as I went out to get the pic, I noticed the factory remote wire unhooked haha so that's all fine and good now, but my cheap deck has a power antenna lead, but no remote, so unless one of you can give me a reason not to use the 12v ignition wire as a remote...I think I'll do that instead of running a switch. The only drawback I can think of is that the amps will all be on anytime the key is on, but really if the key is on, I'll be driving with the radio anyways, so it doesn't seem like a bad idea to me.

But thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

 

Sounds good but splice in a 1.5k ohm resistor because 12v will make the amps pop (they're set up for 6v remote) - sorry if you already knew that

 

i knew they were set up lower, but i thought they were 8v...doesnt matter, I didnt have a resistor handy anyways lol. will do this weekend though. Thanks again fellas