lil background, I have already installed a after market JVC headunit, infinity 1600A amp and 2 kicker CVRs into the trunk with a 1 farad capacitor converted to digital. later some punk that liked to text while driving the truck his parents bought him ran into my car, yes i was VERY hard not to kick his 16 yr old ***, and during the time in the collision shop the "techs" there either severed some wires related to the audio system OR they shorted out the factory amps. either way now 4 of the speakers in the mach 460 don't work. because of this id have to replace the amps n wires i figured might as well upgrade too. i have a 4 ch eclipse amp and a .5 farad cap. what im thinking is mount the cap where the factory amp under the head unit is and the amp on the passenger side of the trans hump

now to the problemish/delima thing. im wondering if any body has a better location to mount the amp inside the car and also a good suggestion of a brand for a 4 channel line out converter. i would like to mount it close to the head unit to prevent having to run long RCA cables and long power wires.(trying to remain wallet friendly )

 

hitting the signal for the loc as close as possible to the deck, and then running long rca's is suggested. tapping the signal in the back will only mean you will be amplifying the noise the signal picked up till that point. Ditch the caps, they are nothing more then audio bling and do no good. Which speakers stopped working now? Front/rear, woofers/tweeters?

 

Caps are a fix for weak electrical systems.They clean up the AC from the alternator.If caps were just bling, why are they built into amps?

There 2 types of caps.Carbon alloy and electrolytic.Carbon alloy capacitors are more like a fast discharge battery than a capacitor. The farads ratings are determined by how long it takes to discharge the unit with a set load. The internal resistance of a carbon alloy type is higher than a normal electrolytic capacitor. This means that the electrolytic capacitor can charge and discharge much quicker than a carbon alloy type. If your system needs a battery the carbon alloy may be an option for you. If you just need a boost for musical peaks, a normal Stinger type capacitor will be better. Just an example, the internal resistance of an Alumapro CAP is 26 ohms; a common electrolytic capacitor is 0.00001 ohms. A Stinger Power2 battery is 31 ohms. If you measured the Stinger battery, it would be about 2000 farads. Get the picture???? Unless you plan on upgrading the battery or alternator, a cap is option.

 

caps are band-aids for a much bigger problem. They are voltage storage devices, and amps are current driven so the amoung of help they do is minimal. Your money that would be invested in a cap would be better spent on upgrading your big-3 wiring and getting a better battery. If you are really concerned with your charging system then do it right and get a better alternator to supply more current. after doing the 2 previously mentioned ideas.

My trucks amp is a Phoenix Gold limited edition Octane amp that has 1/2 farad of capacitence built in and my lights still dim from just that one amp. I am just waiting for my alt to crap out so I can upgrade it.

 

I know what caps do>We make them and sell them and are now owners of Phoenix Gold(the new line is gonna be sick).

The "big 3" and and a battery will only do so much depending on the demands of the system.Its more then a storage device.The ability to discharge/charge and stabilize the AC ouput from the alternator is what makes them useful.You put 2 9 volt batteries in series and touche them to a soda can,what happens? Nothing.Take those 2 9 volt batteries, charge a 10 farad cap and touch the leads to the can, it will cut the can in half.We just had a Stinger seminar and theres way more to caps then people realize.

 

I understand you need to make a buck and stinger has given you some ideas to help, but I am not new to the car audio sales pitch and am not the lamb that will simply follow. I am not going to tell people to buy things they do not need, I hate it when people do that to me.

 

since when does an alternator output ac... and big3 is gonna do more for u then a 1 farrad cap

 

Its not a sales pitch.I could care less if they buy Stinger or not, i dont make anymore or less. The actual benefits can be measured, so i woudnt consider that proof, but thats just me.

 

Does a alternator charge at the same 14.4 output all the time?A cap will help clean the peaks and drops in the voltage so the amp doesnt read a constant varying voltage under big loads.

Heres a link thaty might help
http://www.misterfixit.com/alterntr.htm

So by doing the "big 3", the vehicle battery will be able to sustain a higher load and discharge faster then normal?
The "big 3" helps, but its nothing more then a upgrade that shouldve been done from the factory.

 

how many farads per watt does stinger recomend? Just curious if my amp is below the mark or what....

Again, capacitors are good for storing voltage but just like amplifiers, most of the accesories in a car are current driven so how is it going to help?