mustang amp install
The only way it helps is by not taxing a alternator or battery.The less stress you put on a those two components, the longer they will last.The more stable current going to the amp, the amp will heat up less.This is nothing you probably dont already know, just a diffent angle maybe.
hitting the signal for the loc as close as possible to the deck, and then running long rca's is suggested. tapping the signal in the back will only mean you will be amplifying the noise the signal picked up till that point. Ditch the caps, they are nothing more then audio bling and do no good. Which speakers stopped working now? Front/rear, woofers/tweeters?
Caps are a fix for weak electrical systems.They clean up the AC from the alternator.If caps were just bling, why are they built into amps?
There 2 types of caps.Carbon alloy and electrolytic.Carbon alloy capacitors are more like a fast discharge battery than a capacitor. The farads ratings are determined by how long it takes to discharge the unit with a set load. The internal resistance of a carbon alloy type is higher than a normal electrolytic capacitor. This means that the electrolytic capacitor can charge and discharge much quicker than a carbon alloy type. If your system needs a battery the carbon alloy may be an option for you. If you just need a boost for musical peaks, a normal Stinger type capacitor will be better. Just an example, the internal resistance of an Alumapro CAP is 26 ohms; a common electrolytic capacitor is 0.00001 ohms. A Stinger Power2 battery is 31 ohms. If you measured the Stinger battery, it would be about 2000 farads. Get the picture???? Unless you plan on upgrading the battery or alternator, a cap is option.
There 2 types of caps.Carbon alloy and electrolytic.Carbon alloy capacitors are more like a fast discharge battery than a capacitor. The farads ratings are determined by how long it takes to discharge the unit with a set load. The internal resistance of a carbon alloy type is higher than a normal electrolytic capacitor. This means that the electrolytic capacitor can charge and discharge much quicker than a carbon alloy type. If your system needs a battery the carbon alloy may be an option for you. If you just need a boost for musical peaks, a normal Stinger type capacitor will be better. Just an example, the internal resistance of an Alumapro CAP is 26 ohms; a common electrolytic capacitor is 0.00001 ohms. A Stinger Power2 battery is 31 ohms. If you measured the Stinger battery, it would be about 2000 farads. Get the picture???? Unless you plan on upgrading the battery or alternator, a cap is option.
i've goten it all hooked in and mounted and set up now, sounds so much better than before. mainly because i have all my speakers again used the LOCs right behind the deck then 2 9 foot wires to go to amp, mounted the amp on the passenger side floor board, up against the trans tunnel. ran good speaker wires to all the speakers and used insulated connectors attached to the factory speaker connectors to make for easy removal if required. ill snap some pics tomorow.
Here is where I ended up mounting the amp. I wanted to display it and also be able to hide it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gmxm814-ipA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gmxm814-ipA
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