Well since I put Boston Acoustic 5x7's in my doors and rear deck(car came with basic system) combined with an amp, they sounded a lot better, but I still wanted more bass. So the designing and thinking began and so did the research on audio equipment. I ended up going with a Pioneer 10" Dual Voice Coil sub rated at 350W rms powered by a MTX 400W @ 2 Ohm or 200W @ 4 Ohm amp.

Right now it is in the 400W @ 2 Ohm configuration wich is perfect for the sub I'm powering. The box was made to .75 ft^3 and I wanted to retain as much of the trunk space as I could. Also keep in mind that the whole system does not modify anything in the car. Everything can be taken out and put back to stock.

In the pics you will see some fiberglass, that is an exact mold of the driver side trunk molding so I could cut into it to tuck the sub farther over due to the wheel well hump. The box is secured utilizing the existing hole in the trunk floor used for the MACH1000 systems with the nut accessed from under the car.

The fiberglass will be carpeted later on and the wires will be hidden better for final install. Now on to the pics:





Both amps mounted to the seat. MTX is a mono amp for the sub. Rockford Fosgate(emblem fell off and need to put other cover on) is a 400W for my interior speakers.



Remote Gain **** for easy access and no destruction to the center console. Used 3M molding tape to hold it.

 

first fiberglass project huh?

 

not really. Ive played with fiberglass before. The reason it looks so crappy is that there is tin foil and tape on the backside. I did that to get the contours of the factory molding....and then it wasn't so easy to come off.

Why you say that?

 

Thats not bad at all for a home job man. The only thing I'm not clear on is what was the fiberglass work for? It looks like the sub box is just a square wooden box with an angle cut on the back? You didn't cut into the back wheel well did you? I know you said you wanted to tuck it back further, what was in the way? Just the plastic shell? If so, why not just cut it rather than make a whole new fiberglass shell?

 

None of the sides of the box are angled. Up the front where the corner meets the wheel well hump, it would have pushed it out another 1" or so. So i cut into it to slide the box back. I did not want to hack up any factory parts.

My inital plan was to make the fiberglass you see the back of my box. Then attach the top/bottom sides and front (out of MDF) to the fiberglass. But ideas changed and I still had the fiberglass mold I made so I used it.

All that is left to do is carpet the fiberglass, hide the wires, and make/find a grille.

 

Ahh ic. Hows it sounding?

 

Good, it's what I want. I can make it loud if I want to, but I wasn't going for trunk rattleing bass. I can now turn down the bass on the interior speakers and turn up my high's and mids using the sub for most of my bass and still keep everything clear.

I'm very happy with how it turned out. Best looking/sounding setup I have had to date. It was always so easy just to throw 2 12's in a car and be loud...but I want this car nice.

 

looks like you made too big of a piece of FG so the only way toget it out is to cut it out? The tape and foil should have allowed you to pull it off, you can see the tape is stuck to the glass.

you would have been better off building the base of the box and then glassing the top and back in one piece.

 

Nope, the fiberglass is the same size as the factory molding. So it can be taken in and out just like the factory one is. You can see tape b/c I taped the seams of the foil so the resin would not get in between and get on the factory molding and ruining the carpet on there.

 

I have no idea what that glass piece that goes all the way across the side for. Is it attached to the box?