Make own sequentials
It sure does, just run 4-wires out of a blob of heat-shrink tubing and you're done...
The voltage with the engine running will be 13.2V to 14.4V, the lamps are 25W IIRC so they will draw 2.0A to 2.3A depending on the supply voltage.
Placing the resistor and cap in series with the tali lamp will do nothing--the lamp will not light--as the resistor will limit the current to the lamp, and even if the resistor were small enough to pass sufficient current, the capacitor (polarised or not) would block the DC voltage.
There are certainly other ways to do it with passive components, however all such solutions will require relays to switch the lamps.
Using active components would open up a whole new realm, a 556 dual timer in monostable mode (astable is the free running oscillator mode), a driver resistor, and a SCR come immediately to mind.
The voltage with the engine running will be 13.2V to 14.4V, the lamps are 25W IIRC so they will draw 2.0A to 2.3A depending on the supply voltage.
Placing the resistor and cap in series with the tali lamp will do nothing--the lamp will not light--as the resistor will limit the current to the lamp, and even if the resistor were small enough to pass sufficient current, the capacitor (polarised or not) would block the DC voltage.
There are certainly other ways to do it with passive components, however all such solutions will require relays to switch the lamps.
Using active components would open up a whole new realm, a 556 dual timer in monostable mode (astable is the free running oscillator mode), a driver resistor, and a SCR come immediately to mind.
That's why this wasn't making sense to me...Capacitors pass AC and will filter it depending on how the RC circuit is designed, this is how crossovers are made. But as Cliff said, they block DC. Now, if you want a big mess you could likely do time delay relays and what not, but honestly, when I looked into this last time, this is why I just decided to buy the kit for 50$....but, maybe I will butcher it for the sake of science...ugh...
...so aside from the resistor not allowing the bulbs to light...if a cap blocks dc current, why is this LED blinking? It's running off a small battery (DC) and with resistors/cap/555 timer...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4ggtwqQOCo
I generally understood the point of using a relay...you would delay the power to the relay which would then switch and allow full power to the light.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4ggtwqQOCo
I generally understood the point of using a relay...you would delay the power to the relay which would then switch and allow full power to the light.
DUH. Now I remember...I just literally smacked myself in the face...
That's why this wasn't making sense to me...Capacitors pass AC and will filter it depending on how the RC circuit is designed, this is how crossovers are made. But as Cliff said, they block DC. Now, if you want a big mess you could likely do time delay relays and what not, but honestly, when I looked into this last time, this is why I just decided to buy the kit for 50$....but, maybe I will butcher it for the sake of science...ugh...
That's why this wasn't making sense to me...Capacitors pass AC and will filter it depending on how the RC circuit is designed, this is how crossovers are made. But as Cliff said, they block DC. Now, if you want a big mess you could likely do time delay relays and what not, but honestly, when I looked into this last time, this is why I just decided to buy the kit for 50$....but, maybe I will butcher it for the sake of science...ugh...
The circuitry to make them with active components would be rather simple to design as I described above, however I would guesstimate 1-2 hours in design time, $25 to $30 in parts, and 2-3 hours in construction time.
It was the challenge of doing it with passive components from Radio Shack's very limited offerings that caught my interest.
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PS: If you cut one open, I would be interested in seeing how "they" did it. Get some good pics (with IC part numbers) and I'll see if I can reverse engineer it.
...so aside from the resistor not allowing the bulbs to light...if a cap blocks dc current, why is this LED blinking? It's running off a small battery (DC) and with resistors/cap/555 timer...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4ggtwqQOCo
I generally understood the point of using a relay...you would delay the power to the relay which would then switch and allow full power to the light.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4ggtwqQOCo
I generally understood the point of using a relay...you would delay the power to the relay which would then switch and allow full power to the light.
That is a textbook 555 astable mode circuit, here's one done properly with a driver transistor:
I also think that as our cars run rich at WOT (most newer cars that can burn 87 octane do) this could possibly provide some added power at WOT--of course in the meantime it's screwing up a bunch of other things.
I started an entry on my much neglected blog, when I get it done I'll post a link in that original thread...
So using a 555 timer would cause the same results or no? I understood the 555 timer in the rc circuit to act as a relay almost by delaying the flow and turning the light on/off when alternating between 1/3 supply voltage and 2/3 supply voltage.
I'm still working on understanding exactly how the 555 works and looking at wiring diagrams. I'm a visual person to follow the schematic of how the flow would work it's way through the 555 components.(if that makes any sense lol)
I'm still working on understanding exactly how the 555 works and looking at wiring diagrams. I'm a visual person to follow the schematic of how the flow would work it's way through the 555 components.(if that makes any sense lol)


