hey i joined recently can u guys plz help me.How to post a new thread

 

If I set up my relay's and tap into the inner bulb's brake/blinker wire for my middle and outer bulbs...then each bulb will get 1/3 of the current when both relay's are energized correct?

That's how I understood your diagram Cliff. I'll refer to the middle bulb....there are 2 circuits for it, one through a resistor/capacitor, to my relay to energize it, then to ground. The other circuit (still for middle bulb) is tap into power wire of inner bulb to the relay, then from relay out to my middle bulb to power it.

But does this not cut my current? Having to feed 2 bulbs off my inner bulb, I'm putting only 1/3 of the current to each bulb. Which may not be enough to light it up.

 

You did not interpret the diagram correctly, there is only one circuit for each lamp. They are completely isolated from the timing components by the relays:



(you do understand that in the schematic wires crossing without a "dot" are not connected?)

The lamps are wired in parallel not series, therefore they will each get as much current as they want. One (LA1) will come on as soon as the flasher energises the circuit, and the other two switched on by the relays. Again, they are wired in parallel so there is no inter-lamp voltage drop associated with their all being on.

The "inner" lamp will have to be LA1, middle lamp LA2, and outer lamp LA3. This will require re-routing the "turn signal" power from the flasher to the inner lamp (which will require a dual contact socket or course, it may already have one IDK).

1. When the flasher closes LA1 (this would be the "inside" lamp) will come on and stay on (until the flasher breaks the flow) as it is directly wired to the flasher output;
   
2. When capacitor C1 charges (through R1) to sufficiently high a voltage to pull-in RL1, lamp LA2 (the "middle" lamp) will light and stay on--again until the flasher switches off;
   
3. When capacitor C2 charges (through R2) to sufficiently high a voltage to pull-in RL2, lamp LA3 (the "outer" lamp) will light and stay on--again until the flasher switches off;
   
4. When the flasher opens the circuit both C1 and C2 will discharge through the relay coils, and a bit through R1 and R2--ideally D1 should be a ultrafast acting diode, with very low reverse current, but the "Shack" doesn't sell any.

 

Here's an animation showing the current flow...

 

Here are some pics I took after taking out the passenger side harness:

whole harness unplugged from the car:


Here are one of the brake/blinker lights showing the black(ground) brown(parkin/running light) and orange w/ stripe (brake/blinker light):


here is where they meet at the plug to plug into the car harness in the trunk. you see the 2 orange wires for brakes/blinker bulbs, a common ground for all, a common brown for all parking/running lights and a black w/ purple for reverse light:


Other end of same plug:


Here is the inner light that ONLY does running lights in stock setup...there is a convenient spot to add another wire..which will become a brake/blinker power wire. So all three will have three wires going to them.


And the back of each socket: Minor(brown wire is running lights) Major (brake/blinker lights) and of course ground.

 

OK, I;m an insomniac and I got bored...

Here's an animation of a circuit using three cascaded 555 timers to sequentially drive 3 LEDs.

The function generator in the lower left is being used to simulate the flasher, and think of the switch that the "hand" is pointing to as the turn signal switch. When that switch is closed the flasher pulse is applied to the base of the trigger transistor and forward biases it. This pulls the trigger input of the 1st 555 low and starts timer1 (IC1), when timer1's output drops it fires timer2 (IC2), and when timer2's output falls it triggers timer3 (IC3). The process repeats until the turn signal switch is turned off.

It uses directly connected LEDs as shown--in practical use you would have to add high current drivers for the incandescent lamps or LED arrays, but I'm not going to do it all...

 

Cliff, that simulation does not work. I get this message.

"The ZDSV codec is required to play this file. To determine if this codec is available to download from the Web, click Web Help."

When I do click for help nothing happens lol

 

I use the ZDSoft codec internally because it creates good quality and small (less than 1/4 the size of Microsofts codecs)--usually I use the MS codec for stuff I publish to the web, but I forget this time.

You can download the ZDSoft codec here, it's 100% safe and works very nicely--I will redo the animation in a bit with the MS codec...

 

Well, I DID take it apart, and I DID take lot's of pictures, and I DID happen to get called into work this morning(im on call this week) so i have access to the internet here...however all I remembered to bring was my scribbled note pad, not my camera memory card...BUT!!! I scribbled a schematic!!! And i wrote down the IC number... I will scan the schematic and post it.

Here is the IC....

And the Transistor sheet is attached...

I will add the pics tomorrow if I remember the camera lol..

Parts list consisted of:

2 of the listed MOSFETs
1 listed IC
2 .47 microfarad capacitors
1 47 microfarad capacitor
1 330k ohm resistor
1 170k ohm resistor
1 el cheapo bread board lol


So ya, this could definitely be made on the cheap....real flipping cheap...as in, buy parts in bulk, and have 15$ in parts for each kit of two sides lol. then sell em for 50$, ya, that's a way to turn a profit for sure...to bad I'd get in trouble for copying their design, otherwise this could be very lucrative-EBAY baby!!!

 

Excellent!

As you undoubtedly know, the IC is a dual monostable timer--the timers are cascaded.

One question, are you certain it's a 170Ω resistor? That's a non-standard value in any resistor series.