Iskwezm

How many cars have you been in recently and did a current draw test? 5? 10? 0?or are you just giving your opinion on what you think.

Tylus

I get it. In a optimal setting, I would install the Pac C2R-FRD1 module and have the radio installed correctly.

Problem is...it is $80-100 + shipping almost everywhere you look.


or, you can wire the radio "wrong" by using a add-along fuse that poses no danger...and spend maybe $5. I got lucky and found a used C2R-FRD1 module for $35 shipped. So I bought it for the wifes vehicle. If I find another one for that price, I will buy it also. But until then I'll use the el-cheapo method.





damn I sound preachy. sorry

pentavolvo

it has nothing to do with the actual vehicle it has to do with the aftermarket radio and the current it draws on the turn on the accessory/ignition lead. You dont even have to go in a vehicle you could line up 20 aftermarket radios on a test bench with a 12v supply and a meter and test it.

Iskwezm

So you test a radio on a bench with a 12v supply that has a constant regulated supply and that will give you the current draw,not the same as being in a vehicle. If you reread my original post, i said to make sure the circuit can handle the extra load. Some people tap into a low current circuit, all radios do not draw the same.So now the radio is tapped into a circruit that sees a additional load it cant hadle because the person installing it found a circuit with RAP power. Your arguing a point that has nothing to do with what originally posted. We have seen many vehicles from so called "installers" that knew what they are doing and damged something else durring the process.

Iskwezm

im not here to sell our parts, i get nothing from it. Being in the position that im in, i have some information that most people dont have access too, so i figured i would share it if would save somebody some trouble.