06 PAC C2R-FRD1 wiring harness help
11-10-2010, 07:27 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 40
I haven't had time to tear into the car and check voltages, but a drive tonight confirmed that the subs are the problem. If I turn the subs off the unit will not reboot. I'm going to do some voltage and current testing this weekend and get back to you. Could the 4 volt pre-amp to the factory amps be a issue?
11-12-2010, 06:06 PM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Chesapeake, Va.
Posts: 523
Subscribing. I have the same issues with my Scosche FDSR which appears to be the identical to the Pac. I can't get the volume above 17 and the HU re boots. I also ran a 14 gauge wire from the fuse box a relay which didn't help the issue.
I had the sub-woofers off and and I didn't have the re boot problem. I wonder if powering the subs directly from the HU using a rectifier and not though the interface would help.
I had the sub-woofers off and and I didn't have the re boot problem. I wonder if powering the subs directly from the HU using a rectifier and not though the interface would help.
11-12-2010, 06:36 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: IL - chitown
Posts: 367
u arent powering the subs from the radio, the radio turns them on and gives them a signal they have there own amp
might want to take the remote turn on wire going to the pac harness and unhook it from radio. hook it to the accesory wire and see what happens
might want to take the remote turn on wire going to the pac harness and unhook it from radio. hook it to the accesory wire and see what happens
11-13-2010, 08:43 AM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 40
NJ3 while it sucks your having the same issue, I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one on this board.
Iskwezm
I was doing to some testing on mine last night with a volt meter and found out the following:
With the car off and the head unit at low volume I had 12.5v at the yellow wire that powers the PAC. On the red ACC wire coming out of the PAC I had 12.0v. When I turned the volume up the PAC was seeing 12.0v and outputting 11.2v on the ACC. The head unit did restart during this test, and here's what happened: The voltage on the ACC wire went down to 6v then 0v in a split second and then just as fast went back up to 12v. The head unit shut down and powered right back up like it always does with this happens.
Now I didn't know if the PAC rebooted or the car stopped sending a signal to the PAC to keep the head unit on (I think the smart junction box it responsible for this). So I rewired the PAC to get it's power from the 14ga wire that goes to the battery and currently powers the head unit. So now I know that the PAC is getting plenty of power. I went for a test drive playing my normal song that I test with, and thought I had the problem solved when it restarted. It did make it about a 1:30 into the song versus the 15 seconds on the last test. I also found that if I set my sub level to -6 the head unit will not restart.
So right now I'm at the point where I feel like it is a issue with the electrical system in the car, and it comes to light when you push the factory amps beyond what the Shaker 500 did causing them to consume more power. I'm going to keep on the problem to I find a solution.
Iskwezm
I was doing to some testing on mine last night with a volt meter and found out the following:
With the car off and the head unit at low volume I had 12.5v at the yellow wire that powers the PAC. On the red ACC wire coming out of the PAC I had 12.0v. When I turned the volume up the PAC was seeing 12.0v and outputting 11.2v on the ACC. The head unit did restart during this test, and here's what happened: The voltage on the ACC wire went down to 6v then 0v in a split second and then just as fast went back up to 12v. The head unit shut down and powered right back up like it always does with this happens.
Now I didn't know if the PAC rebooted or the car stopped sending a signal to the PAC to keep the head unit on (I think the smart junction box it responsible for this). So I rewired the PAC to get it's power from the 14ga wire that goes to the battery and currently powers the head unit. So now I know that the PAC is getting plenty of power. I went for a test drive playing my normal song that I test with, and thought I had the problem solved when it restarted. It did make it about a 1:30 into the song versus the 15 seconds on the last test. I also found that if I set my sub level to -6 the head unit will not restart.
So right now I'm at the point where I feel like it is a issue with the electrical system in the car, and it comes to light when you push the factory amps beyond what the Shaker 500 did causing them to consume more power. I'm going to keep on the problem to I find a solution.
11-13-2010, 08:03 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal,the O.C.
Posts: 1,538
Thats good info.I am off for 10 days, but i will forward this to our VP of engineering and be in contact with him durring the week.
I put my Kenwood DDX 8017 back in today and mine still wouldnt shut off.I will do my own current draw test and check for a voltage drop to compare.
I put my Kenwood DDX 8017 back in today and mine still wouldnt shut off.I will do my own current draw test and check for a voltage drop to compare.
11-22-2010, 02:20 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal,the O.C.
Posts: 1,538
Can you check the volatage on the input side of the C2R moduel when it shuts down?The grey/yellow is the acc and the lt green/violet is the 12V constant. See if the voltage is before or after the module.