I used to have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse before some idiot totaled it.

I just recently purchased a 2011 Mustang base V6.

I took the sound system out of it that I installed myself which included two Sony Xplod front speakers (can't remember the dimensions off the top of my head), a 12" Sony Xplod subwoofer that I had in the trunk already in an enclosure with a very cheap amp made by Crunch that does the trick just fine that is also mounted onto the sub's enclosure.

I also have an aftermarket stereo head unit which is a Sony Xplod, but I'm wondering how hard it would be to install that in place of the stock stereo head unit in my 2011 Mustang or even if that is possible?

I've already found a great guide for helping run the cable to power the amp from the battery, but I'm wondering what I should do about hooking up the amp to the stereo head unit? I see that the stock head unit doesn't have RCA, so would I need to buy an additional adapter if I leave the stock head unit in?

I want to try to limit buying anything more than I already have since I'm on a tight budget as I'm still a student at UW-Madison, but in the long-term affording a Mustang shouldn't be a problem after I graduate so I had to get it

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

 

Not cheaply possible. At least not without it looking like crap. They didn't do standard din/double-din for the cut-out facade. So you would need to replace it at the least, making your own or buying a pre-built one which isn't cheap at the moment.

Use a LOC(Line Output Converter) on the factory speaker out lines (not the subwoofer pre-outs), by either tapping the left and right speakers in the rear, which would be a shorter run, or by buying a reverse and normal factory plug to mate together with the LOC. Then run RCA cables to the amp.

Here is the reverse connector. Here is the normal connector. You would just use the 24-pin connectors together (leave the 8 and 16 pin connectors unused) so you could splice in the LOC on the speaker lines you wished to use without damaging the factory wiring.

All installation options for your car here.

 

Thanks for the info Wayne!

I admit that I'm not very experienced with car audio systems yet, but me and my friend were able to wire my 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse without a problem.

I've never tapped into speakers before, so in layman's terms, is that just simply twisting the cable from the rear speaker together with a cable that would run to the LOC and then to my amp? Would I need 2 LOCs, 1 for each rear speaker? I should have all the proper wiring that I need from my last car, but I will bring my amp wiring kit inside later to get the exact specs of what I already have.

My other friend has a lot more electronic knowledge than I do, but I'm not sure if he knows how to do this as he is out of town at the moment. I'm trying to avoid having to go to Best Buy and have them do it for me, plus I like learning how to do things on my own. Thanks in advance for the advice!!!

 

I´m unsure if the rear speakers use a regular connector, so you´d likely have to ¨tap¨ each line. In other words, cutting the 4 lines, left rear +, left rear -, right rear -, left rear +, then splicing back in the mating connection from the LOC so the original speaker still works and the LOC has the connection.

I strongly advise spending the $40 for the harnesses rather than f´ing with your factory wiring. And of course the RCA cable necessary to make it to where you mount the amp.

No. One LOC does one left and right channel. If you´re just trying to power 1 dual input sub-woofer you should be fine. I´m unsure of the specs on the sub-woofer you mention, so I´d verify this though.

 

anytime I recomend a LOC I recomend tapping the signal at the deck. There is noise picked up in the speaker wire, not to mention the noise the stock amp has. So by tapping the line in back to save from running wire you will often end up with noise in the sytem. This also makes it easy for when you do eventually replace the deck either because of the typical lock up problems then have had, or you decide to upgrade. When that happens you will not have to do the wiring over.

 

Thanks for posting the connectors. How do you think the SQ is from the stock base HU? I'm running CDT components up front powered by the stock HU. It distorts badly when turned up past moderate volumes. I realize the amplifiers in it is probably crap but am more concerned with the SQ from the other parts. I was thinking about using the harnesses you posted + a LOC to wire up a 2 channel amp for the components. I dont want to waste my time/money doing that if it wont sound good because of the stock HU being crap. I dont want to do an aftermarket HU atm bc I dont like the location of the metra or scosche kits.

 

I can't speak to it's quality really. But it's likely ok. These are not stock, correct? The distortion is likely because you've not matched the factory impedance within a decent range, the head-units amps(chips) are then trying to push far more than it's really capable of doing resulting in the symptoms your stating. A quick search can probably turn up what the base speakers are at ohms wise. I'm guessing it was originally 6x8's in the doors/rear? Likely 4 ohms for the impedance rating. Depending on how the components were wired you may have dropped it waaay lower than that.

 

The stock 6x8's are 4ohms as are my new speakers.

http://woofersetc.amazonwebstore.com...source=froogle

I just assumed it was due to the fact the factory HU amps cant put out near the clean wattage these call for. I wish someone would come out with a double din plate for the 2011s with the screen on top. I might just go with the Metra one for now even thou I dont like it that much.

 

That´s possible. I´ve never heard under-driven speakers have the symptom you state though, certainly not just symptomatic at medium or higher under-driven levels. I will admit I have little experience in this regard though. I rarely under-drive.

Odd to me, my first reaction would be that it should be craptacular from near the get-go if this is the case. Having it ****ty sounding once turned up usually indicates the impedance is far lower than either the speakers and/or amplifier circuitry for that channel can handle.

What are these rated for RMS wise? N/m...Duh, looked at the link now. 150, likely the stock unit puts what? 35 RMS tops I think? So, makes sense.

Well, bottom lining this, IMO, I think you´d be fine with a LOC to an AM amp, it should nullify or at the very least massively reduce this issue for either case.

 

Thanks again for the help and advice.