Need a little info on (touch screen) head units
#31
thats why i got the 3300. i wanted some real buttons. cant give any real info on your speaker hunt since i have zero experience with s197's. but yea, i feel like it was 300 well spent. the motion backgrounds are nice too. sorta like live wallpapers on an android phone.
#32
Also, I was hoping to get your input in this thread! Do you think going with a touch aftermarket is worth the trouble/cost? Do you have any recommendations for touch head units?
I personally like the full 7'+ screens with as little else as possible(as much actual usable/viewable screen as possible), but that's just me. I don't have jack for personal experience with 'em outside of one I got and installed for an ex a bit back, and fiddlin' around with a friends in his car.
Really, I'd just search out the better cheaper ones that tend to come up often in this section, then just head to the nearest audio place and play around, pick out the one you like the most. Hell, if the local shop comes close in price even get it from there.
The Xenarc 10.2 screen I have for my CarPC is pretty much the same thing as you get in 99% of these units(with the obvious exceptions of my own being double the resolution and 3'-5' more viewable/useable screen)in that they are 4 wire resistive touch-screens. However, the coating on the mass produced [pioneer] units is usually superior, usually not top-notch, but decent transflective(sunlight absorption so you can see it with direct sunlight on it). The few with 5 wire are more accurate, but usually in the $700+ ones(with better transflective coating); but most people wouldn't notice the difference really.
I'll try to look at the linked ones and edit this later. But those lower priced pioneers can't seem to be beat, and can be added onto later. I think you'll find even without being an audiophile it'll give you a bit more hit to the stock system, noted range, and of course be far more usable.
Last edited by wayne613; 09-08-2011 at 10:50 AM.
#34
no i had the shaker 500 stock. and i see what youre saying about the delay. seems like that will stay after all. now my only minor worry is getting the in console aux input to still work. and finding a good spot for the blue tooth mic (any suggestions)
I also like the bigger screen models where its just one big touch screen. problem is there more expensive and then you need the blue tooth add on for more money. they also step into the nav systems which i dont like. i wanted a double din model so it looks right and it makes viewing the options easier. they also seem less cheesy looking than a single din. most double dins are touch screen now so why not go with it.
I also like the bigger screen models where its just one big touch screen. problem is there more expensive and then you need the blue tooth add on for more money. they also step into the nav systems which i dont like. i wanted a double din model so it looks right and it makes viewing the options easier. they also seem less cheesy looking than a single din. most double dins are touch screen now so why not go with it.
#35
Shaker, aka Faker 500 uses 2 factory amps for the door subs, and needs the 5v turn on. Stated in #2 of my previous listing.
16pin aux input adapter is fairly easily found. I'm assuming you're concerned about this as you plan to not get the PAC FRD1 unit? Unless you're buying these adapters from amazon or the like for cheap you'll likely end up spending near $40-50 for the basic harnesses anyhow.
As an additional note, for some 07's and higher, the Chrysler antenna adapter is also needed. To get it to that standard plug it was required for my '08.
Most attach the mic to either the bottom plate of the cluster covering or the top, directly in the center. You can run the wiring behind the dash this way, and just pull it up on the side of the cluster once you pull the dash cluster cover. Example images from when I swapped out all of my LED's in the cluster last year below:
You would just adhere it on the cluster cover(not shown) to either the bottom in the center of that, or the top. I plan to do this later with mine, once I can afford the array mic for this (reduces wind/road/background noise with specialized NC software included).
Last edited by wayne613; 09-08-2011 at 11:24 PM.
#36
No. All of the S197's have the delayed accessory lines, it's just not run to the radio harness from the SJB in some. Just have to tap and run the line yourself. Just some of the newer model's use the CAN-bus signal only to actually do this for the radio itself, leaving that pin on the 24pin connector unconnected.
Even the cheaper resistive ones are fairly refined any more, just have to deal sometimes with your press on the screen being off a bit and it not being quite as easy sometimes (actually pressing alittle with finger). On the plus side, it does mean you can wear gloves and still use it.
I personally like the full 7'+ screens with as little else as possible(as much actual usable/viewable screen as possible), but that's just me. I don't have jack for personal experience with 'em outside of one I got and installed for an ex a bit back, and fiddlin' around with a friends in his car.
Really, I'd just search out the better cheaper ones that tend to come up often in this section, then just head to the nearest audio place and play around, pick out the one you like the most. Hell, if the local shop comes close in price even get it from there.
The Xenarc 10.2 screen I have for my CarPC is pretty much the same thing as you get in 99% of these units(with the obvious exceptions of my own being double the resolution and 3'-5' more viewable/useable screen)in that they are 4 wire resistive touch-screens. However, the coating on the mass produced [pioneer] units is usually superior, usually not top-notch, but decent transflective(sunlight absorption so you can see it with direct sunlight on it). The few with 5 wire are more accurate, but usually in the $700+ ones(with better transflective coating); but most people wouldn't notice the difference really.
I'll try to look at the linked ones and edit this later. But those lower priced pioneers can't seem to be beat, and can be added onto later. I think you'll find even without being an audiophile it'll give you a bit more hit to the stock system, noted range, and of course be far more usable.
Even the cheaper resistive ones are fairly refined any more, just have to deal sometimes with your press on the screen being off a bit and it not being quite as easy sometimes (actually pressing alittle with finger). On the plus side, it does mean you can wear gloves and still use it.
I personally like the full 7'+ screens with as little else as possible(as much actual usable/viewable screen as possible), but that's just me. I don't have jack for personal experience with 'em outside of one I got and installed for an ex a bit back, and fiddlin' around with a friends in his car.
Really, I'd just search out the better cheaper ones that tend to come up often in this section, then just head to the nearest audio place and play around, pick out the one you like the most. Hell, if the local shop comes close in price even get it from there.
The Xenarc 10.2 screen I have for my CarPC is pretty much the same thing as you get in 99% of these units(with the obvious exceptions of my own being double the resolution and 3'-5' more viewable/useable screen)in that they are 4 wire resistive touch-screens. However, the coating on the mass produced [pioneer] units is usually superior, usually not top-notch, but decent transflective(sunlight absorption so you can see it with direct sunlight on it). The few with 5 wire are more accurate, but usually in the $700+ ones(with better transflective coating); but most people wouldn't notice the difference really.
I'll try to look at the linked ones and edit this later. But those lower priced pioneers can't seem to be beat, and can be added onto later. I think you'll find even without being an audiophile it'll give you a bit more hit to the stock system, noted range, and of course be far more usable.
And yeah I am just going to get install from a reputable store nearby because it seems all the specialty shops want to charge me over 200 for install alone (??) and the other places offer over 4 years warranty with their installs.
Hopefully they can keep my console input working too but since I will be using that USB input for my ipod now I guess it doesn't really matter...
#37
#38
The cheaper version of this:
This:
Quite a bit of difference with my setup as I'm using an in-dash PC, in the case of what's discussed here the head-units themselves do the noise cancelling, with varying degrees of success. Using this on your own would likely add significant noise rather than removing it.
I would imagine this would be the same deal as I mention with the transflective screens, the seriously more expensive units would probably be better at it and perhaps include an array mic, as more than 1 element with filtering is needed to be this effective.
This:
Quite a bit of difference with my setup as I'm using an in-dash PC, in the case of what's discussed here the head-units themselves do the noise cancelling, with varying degrees of success. Using this on your own would likely add significant noise rather than removing it.
I would imagine this would be the same deal as I mention with the transflective screens, the seriously more expensive units would probably be better at it and perhaps include an array mic, as more than 1 element with filtering is needed to be this effective.
Last edited by wayne613; 09-09-2011 at 02:43 PM.