Hey guys,

Have a 2008, and am trying to figure out what I want for a full system. Here's what I am currently running:

Pioneer AVIC-FB700 deck
JL Slash 300/4 amp
JL TR570-CXi 5x7 speakers (front and back)
JL 500/1 amp (not sure if slash or not)
JL 10w3 sub (older model)

Now, most of the components are easily re-salable, so not worried about taking a small loss if needed. I play mainly alternative rock, but also a splash of hiphop. rap, and country, so I need to be able to easily re-equalize at times. I want something that has good, clean sound quality, and isn't all over the place (my amps are currently tucked under the seats and sub is in a box that likes to slide across the trunk because it doesn't fit well). Also very interested in a trunk display if you guys know of any that don't have to be fabricated (I suck at that stuff).

Thanks,
J

 

what is wrong with what you have now, what are you wanting different in the new one and whats the budget?

 

Well if your like me & want a custom made box for the stang, but don't actually want to make it check out these people.

http://www.zenclosures.com/Mustang_s/59.htm

I just got a single 10" box from them & am working on redoing me entire setup. I almost have it finished. I will have a thread about it afterwards, but just know, it's lookin pretty nice. Even the subs with dual holes, can be made for just one if you select it.

I went with this box. It was about $135 shipped with everything said & done. Paid for the special banana plug terminal. Yes I know you can build a box for about $40-$50 including carpet, but I don't have the time working 55-70 hour weeks lately & thought it would be easier to pick one up premade for a stang.

http://www.zenclosures.com/2005_10_M...tangcorner.htm

Here is a quick pic. I remade the spare tire cover with like 4 sheet thick plywood, picked up some grey carpet from my local radioshack/hurricane electronics, & cut it to the outline of the stock trunk carpet & glued it to the plywood & mounted everything on it. The sub still has to be put in the box & wires ran, but you can see the grommets that all the wires will route up through.

I mean as far as what you have, I don't know how much more "SQ" oriented your going to get without fiberglassing some kick panels, running active setups, & dumping over $1000 into your audio. If you want a little more bump, you can look for a monoblock (class d) pushing about 800-900wrms. That's about the max your going to get out of the stock mustang alternator. I got 120wrms for my 4 channel only using 2 though, so 120wrms times 2, & a 900wrms monoblock D amp, & estimated draw of 98 amps @ max. My amps won't probably ever be maxed out so that's about as much as I can do with stock alternator.

Check out these calculators to see what you can run. Remember you have approx 90 amps to work with. You can push slightly over it. I would say no more than 10amps though.

http://www.bcae1.com/

Scroll down & use the 4th one called "System Power Design Assistant".

 

Cegha,
Really like your setup. That's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for, except I want maybe a clear cover over the whole thing so I can still put stuff in the trunk without worrying. =)

 

Yeah that's going to get done eventually, probably before next summer. I don't ever put anything in the trunk except coolers during the summer, so I got until then to tackle that project.

I finished the build/setup last night. Going to make a thread in the next few days, with install pictures.

It would be real easy to cut 4 squares & put them together & put plexi over the top & screw it from underneath the plywood. Throw a towel over the top of the plexi when putting stuff on it to keep it from getting scratched.

The only thing I have to work on, is that during the design concept I also built the system with security in mind. There will be 2 "L" brackets in front of my sub box, to keep it from shifting & being stolen. The "L" brackets are going to bolt into the plywood, & be secured with torx security bit screws, just like everything else is screwed down with. That way there is no way to steal anything out my car unless you happen to randomly have a torx security bit in your pocket, which 99% of theives won't carry.

But see i'm going to have a spare as well, & if I need to access it, I will have a "L" shaped torx security screwdriver & need to be able to undo those "L" brackets & take out the sub box, then the amp rack will lift right up allowing me to get out the spare tire.

May have to drill 2 holes in the plexi to allow me to unscrew those L brackets if need be.

 

Here is quick pic of the final install. Still need to install those "L" brackets though.

 

Why JL if i may ask? All of it is over priced for the qaulity you get imo.

Edit: also cegha, where did you get the grommets for those wires, and what are they called?

 

Those are Stinger snap bushings/grommets. Search darvex/bagboy on ebay. He's where I got them from. They're pretty cheap & he even lists the size holes to drill in his auctions, so there is no guesswork on what size holes you need to drill. I used 0 gauge & 4 gauge ones. 0 gauge require 1" hole & 4 gauge require 5/8" hole i believe.

I would say if routing more than 4-5 wires through a hole, use a 0 gauge bushing, otherwise a 4 gauge is fine.

 

Oh just FYI that I forgot to mention, RCA cable heads are too big to fit through a 4 gauge bushing. You must use a 0 gauge bushing for the rcas.

 

if security is really a concern with this install, telling us and anyone intersted in stealing it what tools to bring really isn't the best idea. I would simply say they are a secure bit and hope that they can't guess it but to go just short of giving what size bit just isn't very secure. My entire system was removed with only one bolt securing it place and that will continue to my new stereo. No I will never tell anyone were it is and it is hidden away well enough that I am not worried about it.