Ok so I decided that the Shaker 500 in my '11GT isn't even adequate to lick the manure off the boots of my old '96 Cobra's Mach460 and I wanted more sound.

I ended up buying:
-Shelby Kicker 8" sub pair for the doors
-Shelby Kicker 5x7" speakers for the doors and rear deck
-Kicker ZX350.4 4-channel amp
-Kicker ZXSUM8 Summing/Line Out Convertor
-Kicker KX3
-3 terminal blocks, one each for the positives, negatives and accessories
-4 Farad Capacitor
-4 gauge power and ground wire for amp with inline fuse
-Monster-brand speaker wire to run to all the drivers
-20 gauge wire to run to the 12v switched/remote (gray/violet stripe) wire near the stock amp

My '11GT has the single amp setup as opposed to the older dual amp setup seen in the early '11 and before. It also has the 4 gray plug, SYNC, NAV SIRIUS headunit.

I am going to retain my factory headunit and put all the above into the car. I am going to wire it up to where each 8" sub has it's own dedicated channel so the Kicker amp pushes them as hard as it can. The 4, 5x7" speakers will share the other 2 channels off the Kicker amp and just split the wattage. So each sub will get ~100w RMS and thusly each speaker will get ~50w RMS. It's not the most ideal setup, but it'll work for my needs. I plan on getting my full range input to the line out convertor from the rear speaker pigtails. I've already confirmed the rear speakers get 15Hz-20kHz using a signal generator connected through the 3.5" jack in the center console.

My main concern is retaining SYNC/Nav voice and the beeps you hear when you press buttons on the touch screen, the mute feature when the sync voice is active etc. I've seen a lot of aftermarket harnesses to aftermarket headunits on this subject, but no real data on how the SYNC/Nav voice works when you're just running new speakers and wires.

So my question is, if I wire up the above list of... How in the heck am I going to retain mute, SYNC/Nav voice, etc? I'm sure I'm going to have to tap off of some additional wires somewhere. Sorry about being so long-winded Thanks!

 

I'm interested in doing something similar, so I am interested in how well this works out for you. It sounds like you are converting the speaker level signal to a line level to feed the amp? Then you will run new speaker wires to the door subs?

 

Yes I intend on running new wires to all of the drivers, including the 8" subs. I wish I could find more input on how this is going to work.

 

Bump for justice! But seriously though, no one can help steer me in the right direction?

 

Just sent you a pm.

 

You guys need to contact Cutterwolf. He has the whole system in his car and has helped guys out with questions.

 

I think if you use an amp with speaker level inputs and tap off the rear speaker you will not lose any sync or mute functions. I've seen amps with speaker level inputs with auto on/off capabity so they turn off when you turn off the radio. I've only used speaker level input once, i was disapointed with the sound. The rear speakers do not go through an amp like the door subs, it should be cleaner than tapping into the subamp output.

I have two amps...one in each kick panel. I think some shakers only have one. Not sure where the trunk sub amp is for the 1000.

 

Mondo,

Ty for the info, here is the link to his install...28 pages and growing.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...-my-house.html

 

I would have gone with that whole setup if not for the fact you can't use the Shelby/Kicker 4-channel amp if you have Shaker 500 w/ NAV for whatever the reason... I don't see how or why that couldn't be worked around.

 

Have you installed these yet? Can you post links for the speakers?