http://www.shelbystore.com/category-s/61.htm <-- The link to the Shelby Store where you can find the speakers.

I've installed the speakers/subs in the doors and rear, but have only connected them to the stock wiring and I must say- they sound very much under powered.

I'm going to have a friend come by and we'll tackle it together once he gets back from the boat in a couple of weeks, but I will likely start running wires this weekend. I'm likely going to make a platform that will suspend the amp, cap and crossover from the top of the trunk, though that will take some more time to figure out how I am going to do that. Stay tuned.

 

That should work mounting the amp in the trunk, as long as it fits in between the rear speakers. Otherwise you could mount it under the drivers seat maybe?

 

Try to not mount your amp upside down.
This will cook the circuit board and components
from the heat radiating upward from the heatsink.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I promised pictures of this install I was doing and it's 90% done. I tapped off the rear speaker positive and negatives with my friend and he helped me with the measurements, drilling, cutting as well as overall design of the amp/cap/xover rack. The LOC mount was somewhat of a last minute addition, but we found a place for it and it fit nicely. The cap is oriented in such a way that to see the voltmeter on it's top, all one has to do is drop the rear seats. 95% of the bolts, nets, washers and lock washers were size M5. As far as the design, my friend deserves most of the credit, but Evilcartman's svtperformance.com How-To is what we followed to facilitate all of this.

Things I learned about this install and still need to figure out:
- If you have SYNC/NAV, you lose the NAV voice.
- If you have SYNC/NAV, you lose the beeps the touch-screen buttons make
- You will retain your mute function from the HU when the voice is speaking, but as previously stated, no SYNC voice or prompts.
- You can still make/receive calls with your bluetooth cellphone, they can hear you, but you cannot hear them from the speakers at all

So, the above list I still need to work out, and I still need to find a place to put the remote bass gain though the RJ-45 wire for it has already been run. Since there's cuts already in the carpet below my driver's seat I'm thinking I'll pull the seat out, run the RJ-45 to under the seat and mount the remote bass gain there with the **** facing forward.

Making the measurements for the cap's board:


More cap measurements:


Lining up the mounts for the cap:


Fitted on the MDF board nicely:


Drilling the holes for the cap mounts:


Test fitting with the cap mounted:


Decided to make every bolt custom length:


Grinding wheels for the Dremel got expensive:


The brackets half way done and bent as needed:


Test fitted with the two pieces of MDF board with the brackets:


Here it is finished, and hung from the center of the trunk:


Here's the LOC mounted on MDF; ran out of paint so that's later:


Passenger side shot; note the terminal blocks:


Better shot of the terminal blocks and cap:


Driver's shot of the amp rack:


Shot of cap from inside the car:


Love these grills:


Here's the 12v wire with the fuse tucked away:

 

I was going to mount my amp up there but my box wouldn't allow it to be up there.

Looks good... how's it sound?

 

It sounds 1000x better than the Shaker 500 and it about 3x as loud. I had the Shelby/Kicker speakers hooked up to the stock wiring initially and it sounded worse than with the stock speakers. The stock amps just couldn't push them, especially the 8's. The ammeter reads ~103W on each 8" and ~51W RMS on each 5x7" doing the math in my head. The Kicker amp literally pushes these, but not to their limits. The system needs to be tuned a little more, but the highs/mids are crystal clear, noise is almost non-existant on the lines, and the 8's punch. Even while driving I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel too if I have the volume up to 2/3. The amp is extremely efficient; as it ran almost all day and NEVER even got so much as warm, let alone burning hot. I must say Kicker did a great job on all of this hardware and it works well together.

Something else of note, I used tap-splices to keep from hacking into the stock wiring. If I ever remove this setup I'll just use heatshrink to cover where the tap splice stripped away the insulation.

We made everything in the back to be quick release as well. Like size M5 wing nuts that hold the amp rack up and all the wires that go to the terminal blocks, except for the analog input, which goes to a pair of female RCA's attached to the rack itself on the driver's side toward the back near the cap. The rack can be out of the car in less than 15 minutes, the LOC in less than ten.

 

the reason you lost your beeps and cant hear the nav commands is they only come out the front speakers and you tapped the rears for signal

 

That makes sense. I was trying to think why he was losing those specific audios thru thr loc.

Nice setup guy. Personally I would've added another amp just for the subs though but I think you mentioned you couldnt for other reasons.

 

Yeah I figured that was the case, however, I didn't want to tap anything up front since the signals from the HU up there, even through the LOC would have the lows cut out of them. The rears were the one's with the full range as checked with a signal generator.

I'm trying to find a way to get the SYNC/NAV voices back by perhaps tapping the SYNC audio specific wires and splicing into the rear tapped wires. I don't know, just looking at the wiring I can't tell what SYNC related audio wires I need.