2011 Mustang Stereo Build
I'm new to this site and to the mustang community. A couple of years ago I was in the market for a new car. My wife and I were looking at the 2011 Ford Mustang when they first came out, but since we were looking to start a family we opted for a 2011 Fusion Sport. Two years later after boredom with the fusion and we only drove her SUV when we went places my wife told me to get a new car. So I opted to by a used car since I didn't want a large payment due to the new addition to our family. So I bought a 2011 Mustang GT. It had low miles (6500) and was at a good price.
The following thread is going to be devoted to my stereo build. I have built multiple cars including a 2004 F250 that has been featured in multiple magazines including Diesel World and Diesel Power.
This build is going to be kind of small to my normal build. I chose only a front stage and one 10" subwoofer due to the small cabin size. I am a firm believer in nixing the rear stage. When you go to a concert they do not put speakers in the back all sound is coming from the front. Included components are:
Pioneer AVH-4500BT 7" DVD
2 Sets of Focal Audio 165VB in each door (2 tweeters and 6.5" in each door)
JL XD400/4 powering the components
JL 10W6 in the trunk
JL Slash Series 250/1 powering the 10W6
The following thread is going to be devoted to my stereo build. I have built multiple cars including a 2004 F250 that has been featured in multiple magazines including Diesel World and Diesel Power.
This build is going to be kind of small to my normal build. I chose only a front stage and one 10" subwoofer due to the small cabin size. I am a firm believer in nixing the rear stage. When you go to a concert they do not put speakers in the back all sound is coming from the front. Included components are:
Pioneer AVH-4500BT 7" DVD
2 Sets of Focal Audio 165VB in each door (2 tweeters and 6.5" in each door)
JL XD400/4 powering the components
JL 10W6 in the trunk
JL Slash Series 250/1 powering the 10W6
SUB ENCLOSURE
Tools/Material Required:
First I always start with a template it saves money and time. Like they always say measure twice cut once:
Bottom

First I cut the rough shape with my jigsaw then cut the finish shape with the router. It save wear on the router since those bits are expensive.


Tools/Material Required:
- Cardboard
- Pencil
- Jigsaw I like the Bosch blades
- Router w/Spiral Cut bit/templates/circle jig
- Wood (3/4") preferably MDF I used some oak plywood from a old project I did. Don't use particle board or regular exterior pine sheathing it is not strong and will cause a lot of resonance in your box.
- Drill with drillpits
- Compass
- Tape Measure
- Circular Saw
- Cloth (Old sheet, tshirt, or fleece)
- 1.5Oz Chopped Mat Fiberglass
- Resin. Do not use BONDO. I use US Composites or Fiberglass Depot
- Aluminum Fiberglass Roller
- Caulk. I usually use silicone sealant to seal all the joints.
- Sandpaper. Recommend investing in a rotary sander.
- PPE. Rubber Gloves, Breathing Protectiong.
First I always start with a template it saves money and time. Like they always say measure twice cut once:
Bottom

First I cut the rough shape with my jigsaw then cut the finish shape with the router. It save wear on the router since those bits are expensive.


Last edited by mmarker; Aug 18, 2013 at 10:58 AM.
Speaker Ring
Both of these were cut using a router and a circle jig. It allows to make perfect circle cutouts everytime. I first cutout the outer circle to allow the inner and outer rings to have the same diameter and also need the inner circle left in to mount the circle jig.

Then I nail the inner and outer rings together to get a recessed look for the sub.

Then I attached the rings to the box. I use dowel rods to support the ring to stretch the fabric. I drilled holes in the backplate and ring then I glued in dowel rods between the two holes. I then stretched and attached the fabric using 1/2" staples. I always test fit the box at this stage to prevent having to cut off the fiberglass later if it doesn't look good. I normally leave the speaker ring attached and wait to cut it out once I put resin on it and the rest of the fiberglass layers. It makes it a lot easier
Both of these were cut using a router and a circle jig. It allows to make perfect circle cutouts everytime. I first cutout the outer circle to allow the inner and outer rings to have the same diameter and also need the inner circle left in to mount the circle jig.

Then I nail the inner and outer rings together to get a recessed look for the sub.

Then I attached the rings to the box. I use dowel rods to support the ring to stretch the fabric. I drilled holes in the backplate and ring then I glued in dowel rods between the two holes. I then stretched and attached the fabric using 1/2" staples. I always test fit the box at this stage to prevent having to cut off the fiberglass later if it doesn't look good. I normally leave the speaker ring attached and wait to cut it out once I put resin on it and the rest of the fiberglass layers. It makes it a lot easier
Last edited by mmarker; Jul 28, 2013 at 03:12 PM.
Looks good so far. I have my box in the same place in my 13 GT.
Question: Why did you round out the bottom board? just for looks? because with the cloth there I can't see the curve...
how thick do you put on the fiberglass? I've never used it.
Question: Why did you round out the bottom board? just for looks? because with the cloth there I can't see the curve...
how thick do you put on the fiberglass? I've never used it.
I rounded it for aesthetics. I ended up cutting some of the round off to mount the speaker rings. I usually put about 10 layers of 1.5oz on for a 10". It really matters on span of fiberglass your doing. I use the "can you stand on it test to determine thickness"
















