66 Mustang Conv questions before buying
Hi everyone - new member here.
I'm looking at buying a project 66 conv - just went to check it out. I wanted to get some feedback from you all about whether some of the rust issues it has are major.
Luckily, the owner had a lift so i was able to take a really good look underneath.
- The conv well in the trunk looks perfect - read that this is an area that when rusted is a pain to fix. The rear inner front wheel wells look good too, at least looking down - the top is off the car so i could really take a good look.
- The driver side rear frame rail is starting to rust but it still looks like it has some structure left - would need to blast it real good and prob weld some extra support plate there. The pass rear frame rail looks good
- upper rear shock supports look strong
- car doesn't appear to ever been wacked - the tank fits nicely in the trunk, the front frame and rear frame rails look straight
- typical rust around lips of quarters, front lower doors and lower front fenders
- the inner splash quarter panels are shot - are those replaceable? Lower outer rear quarters actually look ok
- the big concern is the pass side frame box that looks to be a way to stiffen the frame on the verts. It's about 1 foot wide just behind the front floor pans. The attachment area near the rocker is badly rusted. The outer rocker area looks fine though - it's just the inner part that looks bad.
- another big concern: something must have landed on the front windshield frame and bent the top of it. Windshield is gone. Are conv window frames easy to replace? Are they easy enough to find?
- Interior is mostly complete but car needs a total restoration. Plan on completely stripping it down and blasting it to uncover all rust and repaint/reseal the frame/body.
Price is $2500 - what do you think? May even be able to talk him down a little
Thanks for the advice and suggestions!
Patrick
I'm looking at buying a project 66 conv - just went to check it out. I wanted to get some feedback from you all about whether some of the rust issues it has are major.
Luckily, the owner had a lift so i was able to take a really good look underneath.
- The conv well in the trunk looks perfect - read that this is an area that when rusted is a pain to fix. The rear inner front wheel wells look good too, at least looking down - the top is off the car so i could really take a good look.
- The driver side rear frame rail is starting to rust but it still looks like it has some structure left - would need to blast it real good and prob weld some extra support plate there. The pass rear frame rail looks good
- upper rear shock supports look strong
- car doesn't appear to ever been wacked - the tank fits nicely in the trunk, the front frame and rear frame rails look straight
- typical rust around lips of quarters, front lower doors and lower front fenders
- the inner splash quarter panels are shot - are those replaceable? Lower outer rear quarters actually look ok
- the big concern is the pass side frame box that looks to be a way to stiffen the frame on the verts. It's about 1 foot wide just behind the front floor pans. The attachment area near the rocker is badly rusted. The outer rocker area looks fine though - it's just the inner part that looks bad.
- another big concern: something must have landed on the front windshield frame and bent the top of it. Windshield is gone. Are conv window frames easy to replace? Are they easy enough to find?
- Interior is mostly complete but car needs a total restoration. Plan on completely stripping it down and blasting it to uncover all rust and repaint/reseal the frame/body.
Price is $2500 - what do you think? May even be able to talk him down a little
Thanks for the advice and suggestions!
Patrick
Maybe i'm describing the conv lower reinforcement pan? Does that attach to the rocker as well? Or is the front torque box the structural piece that connects to the rocker panel approx where the seats are bolted? Do these front torque boxes weld underneath the seat platforms?
Sorry - not sure what the names of these various parts are!
Thanks
Sorry - not sure what the names of these various parts are!
Thanks
Last edited by PatrickF; Apr 4, 2009 at 01:25 PM.
This? http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atkey=emustang
That is what I get when I search reinforcement pan.
Torque boxes are at the front of the floor pan, pretty much straight under the cowl of the mustang.
That is what I get when I search reinforcement pan.
Torque boxes are at the front of the floor pan, pretty much straight under the cowl of the mustang.
This should be it.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atkey=emustang
This is a description of a patch panel of this part
This is the piece: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atkey=emustang
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...atkey=emustang
This is a description of a patch panel of this part
Premium Upper Rear Torque Box Patch Panel, Passenger Side for 1965-1970 Mustang Convertible & 1969-1970 Cougar Convertible.
This 14 gauge steel panel welds to the floor pan, frame rail & inner rocker panel. Looking at the floor pan from above it would be located in the "notch" or cut-out section on either side of the beginning of the rear seat riser.
Approximate Dimensions: 11" x 9-3/4"
This 14 gauge steel panel welds to the floor pan, frame rail & inner rocker panel. Looking at the floor pan from above it would be located in the "notch" or cut-out section on either side of the beginning of the rear seat riser.
Approximate Dimensions: 11" x 9-3/4"
What "code" is it? T, 6 cyl, C Code, basic V8 A Code 4 barrel V8 K Code, 271 HP V8
That will help determine if it is worth it. Also, more importantly, how good are you at welding? Have you restored a car before? Sounds like a LOT of work.
Sometimes its better to spend 6 or 7k to get a solid vert. By better, I mean it may even end up being cheaper in the long run.
Check the cowl vent, pour water in it, if it comes out inside the car, that's bad.
That will help determine if it is worth it. Also, more importantly, how good are you at welding? Have you restored a car before? Sounds like a LOT of work.
Sometimes its better to spend 6 or 7k to get a solid vert. By better, I mean it may even end up being cheaper in the long run.
Check the cowl vent, pour water in it, if it comes out inside the car, that's bad.
Last edited by lunarweasel; Apr 4, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
Lunar,
It's a 6cyl auto - nothing fancy. I've welded before and own a mig. I've done metal repair work but this will be a little more than i've done in the past... I'm with you about paying more up front - i just don't have a feel for what i'd spend on less rusty early vert (even without motor/trans - planning on dropping in a 89 302 anyways)
It's a 6cyl auto - nothing fancy. I've welded before and own a mig. I've done metal repair work but this will be a little more than i've done in the past... I'm with you about paying more up front - i just don't have a feel for what i'd spend on less rusty early vert (even without motor/trans - planning on dropping in a 89 302 anyways)
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