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A little while back I had a thread about my car overheating and then another about how sluggish the car is. Many of you helped me trouble shoot it and we were able to improve this for a bit. Well, it got worse...
A few months back I tried to back the car out into the driveway and I had a heck of a time because the car kept stalling. I checked my plugs and a few of them had oil on them. I took these videos to send to a friend so he could help me:
Well, after viewing those he decided to drive out to check on the 'ol girl. Long story longer... the engine is toast. We took off the left valve cover and all 8 valves are perfectly aligned so the cam shaft is totally flat. The umbrella gaskets are dead which explains the fowling.
We rented an engine hoist and pulled the engine:
We'll send her out for a rebuild and see what happens!
When taking out the engine we saw that my proportioning valve is leaking. Anyone know where to get a new one?
I'm also thinking of replacing my radiator with a 4-row plus an electric fan, any recommendations? My current rad is a US made 3-row but we are upping the performance a little through this build so I want to make sure the cooling matches.
It looked like cjpp mostly had the aluminum rads which I don't need. I found this one that looks pretty good though it is a little pricier than I expected: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-259-4
That looks like Bars leak. Where was that pipe? Don't remember a hose with a copper piece in it. That radiator has inlet and outlet on passenger side. Is that correct for your engine? Hose on the engine picture looks like driver side.
That's the upper rad hose. The copper looking thing is actually a gano filter which has been scarred beyond recognition. Believe it or not, that gano filter is clean. I flushed that radiator probably 10 times with different system flushes so the chems scarred the inside of it and the rust stained it.
All of that is going in the trash. When I disconnected the heater core from the engine orange curry paste came out... I flushed out the heater core yesterday but will flush it again this weekend. The engine rebuild includes baking the block so I won't have to worry about this again. New rad, shiny clean engine, electric fan. No more overheating!!
The heater core is easy to change at this stage and probably around $50. If it doesn't leak yet, it will, so you might want to change it at this point.
Thats a tough call....Ive had a real tough time finding a heater core that was okay. I blew about 4 or 5 of them apart in last 4 years. I finally found one sold by Scott Drake that has exceeded the average life (9 months) of the other cores...
If its not leaking yet maybe it should be left alone.. unless you KNOW somehow that the one you are getting new is as good or better than OEM.
11-17-2016, 10:20 PM
Rebuilding my '65
