Help with greasing upper control arm ?
Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any clues on a good way to get grease into the upper control arm bushes on my 66 coupe.I have tried a few times and the grease comes straight out of the nipple and doesn't get in.I have the car jacked up to take the weight of the front wheel but still no luck.Just more squeak,squeak,squeak.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Ron
I'm wondering if anyone has any clues on a good way to get grease into the upper control arm bushes on my 66 coupe.I have tried a few times and the grease comes straight out of the nipple and doesn't get in.I have the car jacked up to take the weight of the front wheel but still no luck.Just more squeak,squeak,squeak.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Ron
I actually removed the fittings and pumped grease straight through them.They were clear.I've been told it hard to get the grease to flow in along the bush.In the old falcons here in Australia they used to blow torch a hole in the spring towers under the bonnet where the grease nipple is for the upper control arms.That way you can grease them easily while someone bounces the front of the car up and down drawing in the grease.
Of course I'm not keen on doing that to a factory GT coupe.
Another suggestion I got was to install flexible grease lines as a permanent fixture where the nipples screw in so a gun can be accessed easily with the wheel on.
The squeaking drives me crazy.
Ron
Of course I'm not keen on doing that to a factory GT coupe.
Another suggestion I got was to install flexible grease lines as a permanent fixture where the nipples screw in so a gun can be accessed easily with the wheel on.
The squeaking drives me crazy.
Ron
Time to rebuild your upper control arms. Once you hear the squeeking it's too late. If you have stock or good quality American made control arms, I'd suggest picking up a couple of Moog rebuild kits. Also make sure you have 90 degree zerk fittings. Makes greasing them very easy in the future. I also added caps on all my zerk fittings, and am a fanatic about keeping the zerk fittings clean, so as not to inject dirt along with new grease. I'd also suggest greasing the UCAs each time you rotate your tires.
Here is a picture with the 90 degree zerk fittings on the new set I just installed.
Good luck with it.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/1B5C0C9C69CE436D9E7C0EFFB2D9FC41.jpg[/IMG]
Here is a picture with the 90 degree zerk fittings on the new set I just installed.
Good luck with it.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/1B5C0C9C69CE436D9E7C0EFFB2D9FC41.jpg[/IMG]
Mmmm,I'll have to add this to the list of jobs to do.I was hoping this one was a more easy fix.
Thanks for the help Scott.I'll look into the Moog Kits.
Where is the best place to get those supplied to Australia ? I guess Jeg's or Summit Racing.
Appreciate your input.Thanks
Thanks for the help Scott.I'll look into the Moog Kits.
Where is the best place to get those supplied to Australia ? I guess Jeg's or Summit Racing.
Appreciate your input.Thanks
You should be able to get those local. Australian Ford had Falcons there during the same time period didn't they?
Make sure to keep track of the shims, if you put everything back the way it came apart, your alignment will be very close, if not dead on. That way you can drive to the alignment shop.
This is also a great oportunity to lower the control arms! In which case you definitely want to get an alignment.
BTW: you can cheat and get a little more castor by slightly offsetting the rod during reassembly, so that the upper arm sits just slightly more towards the rear of the car. If you go too far, it will hit the tower, so don't get carried away. More caster helps in straight line stability. If you do this, bolt the arm up and swing it through a complete stroke.
Good luck with it,
Scott
Make sure to keep track of the shims, if you put everything back the way it came apart, your alignment will be very close, if not dead on. That way you can drive to the alignment shop.
This is also a great oportunity to lower the control arms! In which case you definitely want to get an alignment.
BTW: you can cheat and get a little more castor by slightly offsetting the rod during reassembly, so that the upper arm sits just slightly more towards the rear of the car. If you go too far, it will hit the tower, so don't get carried away. More caster helps in straight line stability. If you do this, bolt the arm up and swing it through a complete stroke.
Good luck with it,
Scott
Thanks a heap Scott.You're advice is really helpfull.
I'll look at doing the bushes.I got almost a complete set of nolathane bushes with the car so might change what I can in there at the same time.I have just replaced the front springs with "Super Low" King Springs.The car didn't end up as low as I thought it would.I would like it another 3/4 " lower.
What is the recommended lowering increments for lowering the A arms ? 1" ?
The car may be getting too low if I do this now.
I'm going to take it to a good local suspension shop and see what they can do considering these suggestions.
Thanks Ron
I'll look at doing the bushes.I got almost a complete set of nolathane bushes with the car so might change what I can in there at the same time.I have just replaced the front springs with "Super Low" King Springs.The car didn't end up as low as I thought it would.I would like it another 3/4 " lower.
What is the recommended lowering increments for lowering the A arms ? 1" ?
The car may be getting too low if I do this now.
I'm going to take it to a good local suspension shop and see what they can do considering these suggestions.
Thanks Ron
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
breaking
Audio/Visual Electronics
5
Oct 2, 2015 01:27 PM




