Valve adjustment question
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 126
From: San Diego, CA
Valve adjustment question
Just started my 67 289 coupe after valve job, new edelbrock intake manifold and carb. The valves are pinging. I believe I have the fully adjustable hydraulic valves. I know I need to adjust them while the car is running. I have the clips to help minimize the oil splashing.
But I don't have an extra set of valve covers to cut a hole in.
It's been a while since I have adjusted valves like this. Can someone remind my of the procedure. I don't think it is in the FAQ section yet.
But I don't have an extra set of valve covers to cut a hole in.
It's been a while since I have adjusted valves like this. Can someone remind my of the procedure. I don't think it is in the FAQ section yet.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 17,565
From:
RE: Valve adjustment question
You still trying to get that thing going Doc? Here is a simple procedure for adjusting your hydraulic valves with the motor off. That thing with the motor on is a messy process, and does require an old cover that is cut out, or get oil all over the engine and garage floor. http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 126
From: San Diego, CA
RE: Valve adjustment question
Yes I am still gettting it going although today she made her first maiden voyage. About a mile to my office and back twice. Just taking her easy.
I will try the method in the article you sent. It seems similar to the procedure I did from the book rebuilding small block ford engines called indexing the crank (see attached)
[IMG]local://upfiles/34456/304CF2B75C964100BB3F5D18EC6BD38C.jpg[/IMG]
I will try the method in the article you sent. It seems similar to the procedure I did from the book rebuilding small block ford engines called indexing the crank (see attached)
[IMG]local://upfiles/34456/304CF2B75C964100BB3F5D18EC6BD38C.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 126
From: San Diego, CA
RE: Valve adjustment question
I'm asking because the valves are making a pinging noise and the guy that machined the heads said that even if I indexed the crank I would still need to adjust them with the engine running. That is also what I had to do years ago when I rebult a 65 chevy belair 283.
I'm thinking that maybe I didn't get them quite right the first method and I was looking for other ideas to get them right. I figured that the pinging meant that the valves were off. Could it be something else?
I'm thinking that maybe I didn't get them quite right the first method and I was looking for other ideas to get them right. I figured that the pinging meant that the valves were off. Could it be something else?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 490
From:
RE: Valve adjustment question
Ping or click? Ping is generally used for predetonation and valve adjustment is down on the list for correcting this. If your valves are loose, they click or clatter. For the running adjustment procedure I'm doing a cut and paste from:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
If you have press in studs, check that they are not pulling out. Usually only a problem with a high lift cam.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp
Some helpful hints:
Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations taken care of, start the engine and loosen one of the rockers. You should hear it just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Continue on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.
Adjust only one side of the engine at a time.
Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access.
Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time.
Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier
Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations taken care of, start the engine and loosen one of the rockers. You should hear it just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Continue on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 490
From:
RE: Valve adjustment question
ORIGINAL: pna1969
All the small blocks I have done I have just torqued down the rockers. Maybe I am wrong but won't this work for your app.
All the small blocks I have done I have just torqued down the rockers. Maybe I am wrong but won't this work for your app.
This is a good point - At some point in time (I couldn't find exactly when) Ford went to pedestal mount rocker on the 302. The rocker retainer bolt is torqued to ~17 to 22 ft lbs. NO adjustment. If there is not proper preload on the lifter then a longer or shorter push rod is used for the adjustment.
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