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Air Conditioning

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Old May 31, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #1  
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MustangPammie
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Default Air Conditioning

I need to purchase an air conditioning unit so my local body shop can install it for me. Last summer, when I purchased the car, I looked around online for a/c units and remembering finding them for about a grand, but I can't remember what I needed or where to get it. If I remember right (and I'm old so may not) there were two types, one being a grand, the other being two grand.

What specific model would I need for a 1966 coupe, inline 6, factory p/s, automatic, and does anyone have a specific recommendation where to purchase it?
Old May 31, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #2  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

There are a few different vendors. Classic Auto Air, Vintage Air, Old Air Products, are probably the favorites. Then you need to decide which style to install. Underdash like originally came in our year, or the integrated "perfect Fit" unit.
If you don't have issues with fogging windows in the winter, or don't want to have the full length console with the center box, then the underdash unit like originally installed puts out slightly more cold air.
If you need your A/C to dry the air going to the windshield to keep it from fogging in the winter with the defrost on, and/or want to have the full length console, then you will want the integrated system.
You shouldn't pay more than $1,250.00 for the integrated kit, nor more than $1,000.00 for the underdash unit.

I installed the Classic Auto Air "Perfect fit" kit. which is an integrated type system. Somewhere here I put up a thread of the install, about a year ago. Works great. I made a few changes to "improve" the system, and not hack up my wiring harness. I'd suggest letting a shop that specializes in A/C do the install.
No matter who's kit you get, ask your installer to please not use the Tek screws going through your cowl. That was a stupid, cheesy, cheap way to mount the box.
One other suggestion is to get the kit for R134a NOT the R12.

Good luck,

Old May 31, 2006 | 05:35 PM
  #3  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

Theres a kit for 800 in my magazine, its an under dash kit.
Old May 31, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

Thanks. The one I was is the underdash unit. The body shop told me today to be sure to get the "complete" outfit including condensor, electrical wiring and all parts, because they don't want to get stuck in the middle of doing and realize there are parts they need and can't get.

I'll check out the links you gave me and then post if I have more questions.
Old May 31, 2006 | 06:37 PM
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

Classic Auto Air, had some original "dealer install" looking underdash units, when I was down there last year. Not sure if they have anymore. The nice thing is the original Ford logo stuff. Even though it's aftermarket and runs the R134a, it looks original. The compressor and everything else is updated. Good quality stuff. I think the price was about $900.00 for the complete kit as your shop requested. And IIRC, the hoses are pre-made with both ends crimped. That makes a big difference down the road when it comes time to service the system.

Happy cool motoring!

Scott
Old May 31, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #6  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

You might look into this company for a/c options. They appear to have various models to choose from at a reasonable price. However, I haven't found much info about them from searching the net or within other forums.

Getting hot here in east Texas and thinking about some sort of a/c unit myself. If you or anyone else have info on the Rainbow a/c folks, please post your comments....good luck!!!

www.rainbowproductsonline.com/
Old May 31, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

I checked out Classic Air and they seemed to have what I want

"Classic Auto Air's Daily Driver Series System is a less expensive, high-performance version of the original Ford factory air system. They are one of our most popular and best performing systems. Very attractive HI-output under-dash unit and a state-of-the-art Sanden compressor are supplied in place of the rebuilt original components. Installation is identical to the original system - no modifications necessary. The Mustang daily driver system can be converted to factory air at anytime by simply installing the original under dash unit and compressor."

$895 for a 6 cyl Mustang.

Oh yeah, "System supplied COMPLETE. No hidden options to deal with later."

So that's complete, right? I don't need to buy refrigerant or hoses or any wires or other thingies?

And, what would you estimate it would take a body shop to install it as far as time?
Old May 31, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

In my opinion that is a very good kit. You've made a good choice, for a "factory type" kit.

You will have to buy refridgerant, but that is all. You are going to get the R134a model right? I highly suggest that. It's cheap for the R134a, you'll need somewhere between two and three cans. Get the good quality R134a (like Prestone). Not the cheap crap with the leak detector stuff. The only thing you want in your system is the oil that came in the compressor and pure R134a. That leak detector crap just fills space, and does not promote cooling, plus if you ever do get a leak, it makes a mess. Any good shop will have the correct tools to check for leaks without using this garbage.

We used to do two installs a day, when I worked for an A/C install shop. Can't talk you into going to one of these shops can I? Maybe get a referal from your body shop?
A company that does not do this, should still be able to complete the install in 8 hours, including evacuation, charging, and leak testing.
I would suggest you ask them to take the instructions home and read through them. Anywhere it tells them to cut into the harness, ask them to look for a way not to do that. I connected one wire to the stock harness in my install, no splicing, no cutting or anything else. Also, when reviewing the instructions, ask them to refrain from using the Tek screws if at all possible. And under no circomstances allow them to put any screws through the cowl (shouldn't have to with the kit you are getting anyways).

In short:
Great choice for a "Factory style" kit.
Buy good R134a. Absolutely do not let anyone talk you into buying R134a with leak detector crap in it.
Ask your installer to read through the instructions and look for ways not to cut into the harness, and not to use the Tek screws if possible.
Absolutely no Tek screws through the cowl! (I don't think this pertains you your kit, but just in case)

Good luck,

Scott
Old May 31, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

Thanks, printed out what you said. There are 2 known a/c shops in the area that are recommended but one won't work on older cars and the other isn't available for a few months.

The body shop I go to works on older cars and hot rods are a specialty. The owner has many himself.

R134a is what I will get if you tell me where to get it!

Also, when ordering the unit, I need to tell them "number of belt grooves on engine pulleys". Uhm, can you explain that a little more clearly?
Old May 31, 2006 | 09:42 PM
  #10  
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Default RE: Air Conditioning

Your body shop might even have the proper equipment with R134a all ready. Just make sure to ask them about any leak detectant. If they use refridgerant with leak detectant, ask them if you can bring in your own. They will need a seperate gauge set for this.

Not sure about the laws in your state. You should be able to pick up R134a at your local autoparts store. That said, I ended up going to three different places to find R134a w/o leak detectant. Call around. The brand I found was Prestone. There should be others available as well.
As for pulleys, put a call into Classic Auto Air. It should be the number of pulley groves on the crankshaft pulley (very bottom one), they may also need to know the waterpump pulley (one with fan attached) grooves as well. Just depends on if they use the stock mounting bracketry, or mount off the lower passenger side of the block.

Ask your body shop how they plan to evacuate, charge and check the system for leaks. Evacuation should be at least 40 minutes at 29"+ vacuum, longer if the humidity is above 80%. Charge should be done based on weight, if they have the correct equipment. If not pressure readings are fairly accurate when based on ambient temp/humidty. Leak test should be done with a calibrated test meter. Not a black light and...you guessed it "leak detectant".

You should also go back in about 1 month or 500 miles, to have the system topped off, and rechecked. Brand new, the front compressor seal will leak a little until it seals up with the first bit of use.


Scott




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