GT40 Heads
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 94
From:
RE: GT40 Heads
Well, finally got word from the engine guy... he said my heads were not cracked but were wore completely out. He says he can rebuild em for $500.00 or can sell me a set of rebuilt ones for $450.00. He didn't recommend the already rebuilt ones because he said they're normally rebuilt just enough to get em out the door.
So, my options are $500.00 to rebuild mine... $538.00 for GT40's... or roughly $1,300.00 for AFR's or Edelbrock Performance RPM heads. Decisions, decisions.
Thanks for all the info!! Will sleep on it and see what I come up with.
So, my options are $500.00 to rebuild mine... $538.00 for GT40's... or roughly $1,300.00 for AFR's or Edelbrock Performance RPM heads. Decisions, decisions.
Thanks for all the info!! Will sleep on it and see what I come up with.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,707
From: San Francisco
RE: GT40 Heads
yeah....best bet is gonna be pay the grand, and u will get a grand of performance and weight reduction.........i personally am interested in those trickflow heads though....they sound kinda cool.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,645
From:
RE: GT40 Heads
Actually, i would go with a Cast Iron head. I hear they are better, because they have more heat to combust with, or something like that. The only good thing about aluminum is the wieght savings really. Just think upon that, and read up on it. There are many articles i have read that say the same thing. They are still expensive too.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 179
From:
RE: GT40 Heads
ORIGINAL: Hettar
Yo,
I have my 289 block, heads and crank shaft at the engine shop being worked over. I got an ominous message today that they found a problem with the heads and have quit work on them till they can talk to me... and they're supposed to call back tomorrow.
I assume this all means they're fixing to tell me the cost is fixing to go up.
I've been following the thread about using GT40 heads from a 96 Explorer. I stopped by Autozone and checked on the price and how long they could get them... $269.99 plus core... and they can have em here in about two weeks.
Now, if they tell me the cost of rebuilding the stock heads is now going to be close to that, I'm thinking of telling em no thanks and go with the GT40's.
However, was wondering if someone could help me with some questions to help me make up my mind which way's the best way to go if the money's close to the same.
1. Will the 96 Explorer 5.0 heads have the same accessory bolt holes in the front end of the heads that the old 289 heads have, so that all the brackets and such at the front of the engine can still bolt up as they did originally?
2. Will the GT40 heads give me more horses than the stock heads?
3. I think I understood that the GT40 heads will have the same slanted sparkplug holes that the 289 heads have... did I get that right?
4. Is there anything that won't bolt up the same with the GT40 heads as they did with the 289 heads?
...or if you can think of any other reasons why I would want to go one way or the other, I'd sure appreciate some opinions!!
Yo,
I have my 289 block, heads and crank shaft at the engine shop being worked over. I got an ominous message today that they found a problem with the heads and have quit work on them till they can talk to me... and they're supposed to call back tomorrow.
I assume this all means they're fixing to tell me the cost is fixing to go up.
I've been following the thread about using GT40 heads from a 96 Explorer. I stopped by Autozone and checked on the price and how long they could get them... $269.99 plus core... and they can have em here in about two weeks.
Now, if they tell me the cost of rebuilding the stock heads is now going to be close to that, I'm thinking of telling em no thanks and go with the GT40's.
However, was wondering if someone could help me with some questions to help me make up my mind which way's the best way to go if the money's close to the same.
1. Will the 96 Explorer 5.0 heads have the same accessory bolt holes in the front end of the heads that the old 289 heads have, so that all the brackets and such at the front of the engine can still bolt up as they did originally?
2. Will the GT40 heads give me more horses than the stock heads?
3. I think I understood that the GT40 heads will have the same slanted sparkplug holes that the 289 heads have... did I get that right?
4. Is there anything that won't bolt up the same with the GT40 heads as they did with the 289 heads?
...or if you can think of any other reasons why I would want to go one way or the other, I'd sure appreciate some opinions!!
just curious- does anyone have answers to the rest of hettar's questions?- I've got the same questions, esp. #1 and #4!!
[sm=thanx.gif]
5th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,287
From: North Fulton, GA
RE: GT40 Heads
ORIGINAL: 6mustang6
Actually, i would go with a Cast Iron head. I hear they are better, because they have more heat to combust with, or something like that. The only good thing about aluminum is the wieght savings really. Just think upon that, and read up on it. There are many articles i have read that say the same thing. They are still expensive too.
Actually, i would go with a Cast Iron head. I hear they are better, because they have more heat to combust with, or something like that. The only good thing about aluminum is the wieght savings really. Just think upon that, and read up on it. There are many articles i have read that say the same thing. They are still expensive too.
There are many benefits to aluminum over steel besides weight, all other things being equal.
To the original poster, I'd be leary of any off the shelf rebuild from an autoparts store. Like starters, alternators, etc., you don't know what kind of care they are taking at the remanufacturing sweat shop. A guarentee doesn't do you much good on a head if something goes wrong. Unlike a starter or alternator held on by a few bolts, pulling heads is a project.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,007
From: Citrus County, FL
RE: GT40 Heads
I have found a large number of cracked heads on Fords
if you got money - aftermarkets would be best. if your limited on funds i'd grab the gt-40's. the gt-40's will also have 3 casting lines on the ends of the heads if i remember correctly
oh yeah, and companies like auto zone buy their engine parts from reman companies who like to weld heads and use pins.... so if you grab a set from there i recommend disassembling them and giving them a very close inspection. (auto zone will rent you a spring compessor for free)
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,645
From:
RE: GT40 Heads
I have read many articles that say otherwise, here is one short one.
Cast iron holds operating temperatures even and constant, which translates into solid horse power gains. 3) Aluminum expands and contracts faster and greater than cast iron. Some hot aluminum heads grow as much a 3/32" in length, which breaks gasket seals, stresses the stud/nut torque, causes gasket leaks and leads to premature blown head gaskets. Cast iron expands and contracts at the same rate as the block. 4) Aluminum becomes the sacrificial metal and electrolysis eats (rots) the insides away causing weakness in the walls and water jacket edges.
Cast iron holds operating temperatures even and constant, which translates into solid horse power gains. 3) Aluminum expands and contracts faster and greater than cast iron. Some hot aluminum heads grow as much a 3/32" in length, which breaks gasket seals, stresses the stud/nut torque, causes gasket leaks and leads to premature blown head gaskets. Cast iron expands and contracts at the same rate as the block. 4) Aluminum becomes the sacrificial metal and electrolysis eats (rots) the insides away causing weakness in the walls and water jacket edges.