Soaring

According to instructions on all rust encapsulators, you only need to take off the peeling paint and very rough spots, then apply the rust encapsulator. It will chemically change the rust to a polymer primer base and will not rust any further than it already has. Using it on bare clean metal will not change a thing. It is a rust encapsulator, and not a primary choice for a primer for color coat on clean metal.

rmodel65

the thing with the marine clean is cause alot of people use it on the under car stuff that greasy and paint will not stick!

coda618

About using Por 15 on boby panels. I would not. These should be prepped and repaired as normal. The plus with the por 15 is the ability to access tight spaces with a brush when you can not get all the rust removed. I believe the best way is always rust free metal, within reason.

rmodel65

we painted my brothers whole car in it then used there tie coat primer. the por15 black was extremely shiny and showed us alot of places that were wavy and it will protect against further corrision!

EricButler

I have used Rust bullet on the floor of my Mustang. The stuff is awsome. It is very easy to use and looks great when you are done. The stuff is like steal!! I even tried to chip it on a test panel just to see if it was really as tuff as they say and it was amazing how hard I had to scrap it to mess it up. I have even used it on my rusty hitch on my daily driver that sees the nasty road salt all the time in the winter. NO rust has come back at all and the hitch looks brand new. I really believe you can't go wrong with Rust bullet if this is the way you decide to go. Awsome stuff.

Clu7ch

personally, i'd feel more comfortable if i was to sand/brush down all the existing rust (within reason) and from there prep and coat it. i would be very weary, no matter what, about leaving the rust there. the more of it i can take off my car the better.


now lets say you were to have a few minor rust spots and decided to strip the entire car of paint and all sand it down to bare metal, than spray it with por 15 or the like, would that work to convert the "radical" rust (the rust you think you sand off and after you prime it, it comes back to say "F-you!") AND prep the body and prevent any rust from forming?

atomsk680

im trying to get as much of the rust off the car as i can, then preppign wit por-15 depending on where it is

Clu7ch

that, to me, sounds like the best idea. i just wanna know how good, if at all, this stuff is at preventing rust.

Color by WEASEL

Well I'm moving forward with all this good information! Maybe against the flow a little, but I ordered some Rust Bullet. I intend to (after I finish my floor pans and a couple other small patches, new trunk drops just cause) use the RB on the entire interior less dash and doors. Also the entire trunk including the inside quarter panels and everything else I can spray or fling it onto, in those areas. I will wire brush it all and get rid of any oil and grease, which is very little, mainly from seam sealer. My exterior is going to be 100% bare metal either original or a repair panel. I have a drivers quarter skin, pass door bottom 8" panel, and pass rear quarter bottom patch. Thats it for the exterior repair. A few dings I'll dolly out. My exterior will be what I call standard prep. Bare metal, epoxy primer, primer sealer, base coat and clear. Time frame??? Working from the inside out. Engine compartment complete. Thanks to everyone for the reponses. Have not quite got the picture thing down to post some progress but thanks again for the support.

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grocery getter

from what i've found por-15 encapsulates rust. no oxygen and moisture, no "more" rust. if I remember correctly the metal ready converts the rust to an black oxide.
if the por15 chips it will no longer protect due to the moisture and oxygen that will be able to attack the metal.
also for the por15 to work you must have complete coverage. any gaps or thin spots and the rust will come back.