Had a bad night
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 3,806
From: DFW
RE: Had a bad night
ouch, get better soon, i once burned the side of my arm on my muffler last summer when changing a tire on my fox. i learned to make sure not to lose those nuts for the tires, cause they roll.
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: Had a bad night
You, my friend have good wife!
The round copper wax container in the base of the thermostat faces in to the manifold, so that when hot the valve opens in towards the manifold, away from the neck. Paint on the neck of the housing may have been disolved by the heated coolant, and actually worked like a grease. I'm still suprised that if the clamp stayed on the hose, the whole thing was pliable enough to go past the rib at the end. I would take a close look at that clamp. Properly tensioned the clamp band should cause a slight, and even, indentation all the way around the hose, so that the band is fairly flush with the outside hose diameter. There is a torque spec for the clamp, but for the life of me, I can't remember what that is.
I'd pressure test the cap to make sure the blow off point is within tolerance. Sometimes brand new caps and thermostats, need to have the valves worked by hand once, just to break them free. I'm not a big fan of opening the thermostat valve w/o heat, however, I've done it many times with no ill effect (knock on wood).
The '66 doesn't really trap air, but anything is possible. If you would, please let us know if the paint on the neck feels gooey. In either case wash the hose out real well with soap and water,and wipe the hose out one last time with a clean dry towel, just to make sure. Use a solvent to remove the paint on the neck, and then soap/water. Better overly safe than have another disaster.
You can probably have a local place pressure test your cap for free. Especially after you tell them what happened! Takes less than a minute to do.
As for the thermostat, put a pan of water on the stove. Toss in the Thermostat add a thermometer and cook on medium until tender.....Uh wait, I meant warm up the water until the thermostat opens and note the temperature. Should be within 5 degrees of rated temp.
Let us know how it all goes. Would be a very good closer to be able to post the what and the why of this incident.
Scott
The round copper wax container in the base of the thermostat faces in to the manifold, so that when hot the valve opens in towards the manifold, away from the neck. Paint on the neck of the housing may have been disolved by the heated coolant, and actually worked like a grease. I'm still suprised that if the clamp stayed on the hose, the whole thing was pliable enough to go past the rib at the end. I would take a close look at that clamp. Properly tensioned the clamp band should cause a slight, and even, indentation all the way around the hose, so that the band is fairly flush with the outside hose diameter. There is a torque spec for the clamp, but for the life of me, I can't remember what that is.
I'd pressure test the cap to make sure the blow off point is within tolerance. Sometimes brand new caps and thermostats, need to have the valves worked by hand once, just to break them free. I'm not a big fan of opening the thermostat valve w/o heat, however, I've done it many times with no ill effect (knock on wood).
The '66 doesn't really trap air, but anything is possible. If you would, please let us know if the paint on the neck feels gooey. In either case wash the hose out real well with soap and water,and wipe the hose out one last time with a clean dry towel, just to make sure. Use a solvent to remove the paint on the neck, and then soap/water. Better overly safe than have another disaster.
You can probably have a local place pressure test your cap for free. Especially after you tell them what happened! Takes less than a minute to do.
As for the thermostat, put a pan of water on the stove. Toss in the Thermostat add a thermometer and cook on medium until tender.....Uh wait, I meant warm up the water until the thermostat opens and note the temperature. Should be within 5 degrees of rated temp.
Let us know how it all goes. Would be a very good closer to be able to post the what and the why of this incident.
Scott
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,634
From: SC
RE: Had a bad night
I have a funny feeling that the clamp was bad or it was not tight enough..
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
You, my friend have good wife!
The round copper wax container in the base of the thermostat faces in to the manifold, so that when hot the valve opens in towards the manifold, away from the neck. Paint on the neck of the housing may have been disolved by the heated coolant, and actually worked like a grease. I'm still suprised that if the clamp stayed on the hose, the whole thing was pliable enough to go past the rib at the end. I would take a close look at that clamp. Properly tensioned the clamp band should cause a slight, and even, indentation all the way around the hose, so that the band is fairly flush with the outside hose diameter. There is a torque spec for the clamp, but for the life of me, I can't remember what that is.
I'd pressure test the cap to make sure the blow off point is within tolerance. Sometimes brand new caps and thermostats, need to have the valves worked by hand once, just to break them free. I'm not a big fan of opening the thermostat valve w/o heat, however, I've done it many times with no ill effect (knock on wood).
The '66 doesn't really trap air, but anything is possible. If you would, please let us know if the paint on the neck feels gooey. In either case wash the hose out real well with soap and water,and wipe the hose out one last time with a clean dry towel, just to make sure. Use a solvent to remove the paint on the neck, and then soap/water. Better overly safe than have another disaster.
You can probably have a local place pressure test your cap for free. Especially after you tell them what happened! Takes less than a minute to do.
As for the thermostat, put a pan of water on the stove. Toss in the Thermostat add a thermometer and cook on medium until tender.....Uh wait, I meant warm up the water until the thermostat opens and note the temperature. Should be within 5 degrees of rated temp.
Let us know how it all goes. Would be a very good closer to be able to post the what and the why of this incident.
Scott
You, my friend have good wife!
The round copper wax container in the base of the thermostat faces in to the manifold, so that when hot the valve opens in towards the manifold, away from the neck. Paint on the neck of the housing may have been disolved by the heated coolant, and actually worked like a grease. I'm still suprised that if the clamp stayed on the hose, the whole thing was pliable enough to go past the rib at the end. I would take a close look at that clamp. Properly tensioned the clamp band should cause a slight, and even, indentation all the way around the hose, so that the band is fairly flush with the outside hose diameter. There is a torque spec for the clamp, but for the life of me, I can't remember what that is.
I'd pressure test the cap to make sure the blow off point is within tolerance. Sometimes brand new caps and thermostats, need to have the valves worked by hand once, just to break them free. I'm not a big fan of opening the thermostat valve w/o heat, however, I've done it many times with no ill effect (knock on wood).
The '66 doesn't really trap air, but anything is possible. If you would, please let us know if the paint on the neck feels gooey. In either case wash the hose out real well with soap and water,and wipe the hose out one last time with a clean dry towel, just to make sure. Use a solvent to remove the paint on the neck, and then soap/water. Better overly safe than have another disaster.
You can probably have a local place pressure test your cap for free. Especially after you tell them what happened! Takes less than a minute to do.
As for the thermostat, put a pan of water on the stove. Toss in the Thermostat add a thermometer and cook on medium until tender.....Uh wait, I meant warm up the water until the thermostat opens and note the temperature. Should be within 5 degrees of rated temp.
Let us know how it all goes. Would be a very good closer to be able to post the what and the why of this incident.
Scott
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,328
From: Where I lay my head is home
RE: Had a bad night
ORIGINAL: slickman
I have a funny feeling that the clamp was bad or it was not tight enough..
I have a funny feeling that the clamp was bad or it was not tight enough..
but i also believe there was excess pressure, paint on the housing creating a smooth surface and it being lose allowed coolant to act as a lubricant. it was a bit of a chain reaction if you ask me. even with a lose clamp, the hose shouldn't have popped off. it would leak, but shouldn't fly off.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,576
From: Salisbury NC
RE: Had a bad night
i feel your pain man, ive had 2nd degree burns on my face too, not fun. i didnt even get any morphine, so consider yourself lucky there. As for the car, it can be fixed, would insurance cover something like that?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 295
RE: Had a bad night
Why would paint have anything to do with it? What about chrome housings? Can't get any smoother than that, I have a feeling it was the clamp, The original housing have a texture and rib at the end, so I can't really see it being the paints fault! Hell, I just took off mine, it too was painted, and I never had any problems with it coming off!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,328
From: Where I lay my head is home
RE: Had a bad night
ORIGINAL: Clu7ch
+1
but i also believe there was excess pressure, paint on the housing creating a smooth surface and it being lose allowed coolant to act as a lubricant. it was a bit of a chain reaction if you ask me. even with a lose clamp, the hose shouldn't have popped off. it would leak, but shouldn't fly off.
ORIGINAL: slickman
I have a funny feeling that the clamp was bad or it was not tight enough..
I have a funny feeling that the clamp was bad or it was not tight enough..
but i also believe there was excess pressure, paint on the housing creating a smooth surface and it being lose allowed coolant to act as a lubricant. it was a bit of a chain reaction if you ask me. even with a lose clamp, the hose shouldn't have popped off. it would leak, but shouldn't fly off.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7
RE: Had a bad night
That is scary. You just don't think something like that will happen while working in your garage. I had a similar situation in college quite a few years back. I had a FIAT spyder I was driving to school with sandals on when the heater hose coming to the interoir blew and sprayed my feet and ankles with boiling antifreeze, I still remember how much that hurt. Hang in there, you'll heal.
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
From:
RE: Had a bad night
I'm lucky and just thankful it didn't mess up my eye. Everything else will heal.....eventually.
ORIGINAL: cormy
That is scary. You just don't think something like that will happen while working in your garage. I had a similar situation in college quite a few years back. I had a FIAT spyder I was driving to school with sandals on when the heater hose coming to the interoir blew and sprayed my feet and ankles with boiling antifreeze, I still remember how much that hurt. Hang in there, you'll heal.
That is scary. You just don't think something like that will happen while working in your garage. I had a similar situation in college quite a few years back. I had a FIAT spyder I was driving to school with sandals on when the heater hose coming to the interoir blew and sprayed my feet and ankles with boiling antifreeze, I still remember how much that hurt. Hang in there, you'll heal.