Had a bad night
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: Had a bad night
ORIGINAL: 1965MustangFastback
Why would paint have anything to do with it? What about chrome housings? Can't get any smoother than that, I have a feeling it was the clamp, The original housing have a texture and rib at the end, so I can't really see it being the paints fault! Hell, I just took off mine, it too was painted, and I never had any problems with it coming off!
Why would paint have anything to do with it? What about chrome housings? Can't get any smoother than that, I have a feeling it was the clamp, The original housing have a texture and rib at the end, so I can't really see it being the paints fault! Hell, I just took off mine, it too was painted, and I never had any problems with it coming off!
I'm looking forward to hearing the final outcome of what happened to cause it. Something I'm sure we could all learn from.
Scott
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
From:
RE: Had a bad night
here is a list of possibilities that i need/want to check into b/f i do anything
Faulty thermostat?
Paint - it definitely appeared to be gooey and wet b/f the disaster. it cured for 3 days b/f I ran the car. the paint is plastikote engine enamel flat black but now looks like super high gloss after the accident. I ordered a new housing from NPD and this time will mask off where the hose will sit befor painting.
pressure test radiator cap & radiator - what reading am i looking for here/where can i take it to get it tested? (what is the theiry behind too little/too much pressure)?
maybe air in the system? need to figure out how to burp the system?
Faulty thermostat?
Paint - it definitely appeared to be gooey and wet b/f the disaster. it cured for 3 days b/f I ran the car. the paint is plastikote engine enamel flat black but now looks like super high gloss after the accident. I ordered a new housing from NPD and this time will mask off where the hose will sit befor painting.
pressure test radiator cap & radiator - what reading am i looking for here/where can i take it to get it tested? (what is the theiry behind too little/too much pressure)?
maybe air in the system? need to figure out how to burp the system?
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
Certain paints will react with heat and antifreeze, depending on where they are in the curing stages. If the paint started getting goey, it makes like a greasy film. That said, I think we are all in agreement at our amazement in the hose getting over the rib on the end, unless there is an issue with the clamp, or the cap.
I'm looking forward to hearing the final outcome of what happened to cause it. Something I'm sure we could all learn from.
Scott
ORIGINAL: 1965MustangFastback
Why would paint have anything to do with it? What about chrome housings? Can't get any smoother than that, I have a feeling it was the clamp, The original housing have a texture and rib at the end, so I can't really see it being the paints fault! Hell, I just took off mine, it too was painted, and I never had any problems with it coming off!
Why would paint have anything to do with it? What about chrome housings? Can't get any smoother than that, I have a feeling it was the clamp, The original housing have a texture and rib at the end, so I can't really see it being the paints fault! Hell, I just took off mine, it too was painted, and I never had any problems with it coming off!
I'm looking forward to hearing the final outcome of what happened to cause it. Something I'm sure we could all learn from.
Scott
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 167
From: Minnesota
RE: Had a bad night
Glad, you're okay. I've said before that yours is my favorite car on the forum...everything I want my little 6-banger to grow up to be someday. I painted my thermostat housing and replaced rad hoses last year. Now I'm going home to check the clamps!
[IMG]local://upfiles/20213/FD8333362BBF46EA9A13F013B66D04C2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/20213/FD8333362BBF46EA9A13F013B66D04C2.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
From:
RE: Had a bad night
thanks Charlie. your 66 Candyapple is a real nice ride as well. be careful
ORIGINAL: Charlie1
Glad, you're okay. I've said before that yours is my favorite car on the forum...everything I want my little 6-banger to grow up to be someday. I painted my thermostat housing and replaced rad hoses last year. Now I'm going home to check the clamps!
[IMG]local://upfiles/20213/FD8333362BBF46EA9A13F013B66D04C2.jpg[/IMG]
Glad, you're okay. I've said before that yours is my favorite car on the forum...everything I want my little 6-banger to grow up to be someday. I painted my thermostat housing and replaced rad hoses last year. Now I'm going home to check the clamps!
[IMG]local://upfiles/20213/FD8333362BBF46EA9A13F013B66D04C2.jpg[/IMG]
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: Had a bad night
A local radiator shop, or repair facility can test it for you. This picture is of a typical pressure tester (Stant 225) I've had since the mid 70's, whith the radiator cap adapter attached to the end. These testers haven't changed in as long as I can remember. I use it to test my system, when I flush or replace a component. Probably cost around $75.00 today for the kit. Nice tool to have.
For our 13psi systems your cap would test correctly if it released pressure no higher than the blue arrow in the 15-17 lbs range. It should then drop quickly somewhere into the blue range (where it says cap 13-14) and hold for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes they get a groove smushed into the rubber so in order to properly test it, a little spit on the rubber gasket and a few times of screwing it on and off the adapter may be required.
I wouldn't get too excited about air in the system of a '66. If you are concerned, get a 3-4 psi cap, and run a hose from the overflow on the radiator into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Fill the system up completely, then run the car until it is fully warmed up. Shut the car off and it will spew all the excess into the bucket. Wait for things to cool off and strain the excess back into an empty coolant container. You now have extra coolant/water mix, in case you need to top off down the road.
HTH,
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/C15DAF29B7C74EDF9D80B694AEB4F38A.jpg[/IMG]
For our 13psi systems your cap would test correctly if it released pressure no higher than the blue arrow in the 15-17 lbs range. It should then drop quickly somewhere into the blue range (where it says cap 13-14) and hold for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes they get a groove smushed into the rubber so in order to properly test it, a little spit on the rubber gasket and a few times of screwing it on and off the adapter may be required.
I wouldn't get too excited about air in the system of a '66. If you are concerned, get a 3-4 psi cap, and run a hose from the overflow on the radiator into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Fill the system up completely, then run the car until it is fully warmed up. Shut the car off and it will spew all the excess into the bucket. Wait for things to cool off and strain the excess back into an empty coolant container. You now have extra coolant/water mix, in case you need to top off down the road.
HTH,
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/C15DAF29B7C74EDF9D80B694AEB4F38A.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
From:
RE: Had a bad night
Scott, sorry for the stupid questions but what is the theory behind either the radiator cap and radiator having too much or too little pressure? how does it affect the whole system? Also, don't quite understand how pressure is consistent when there is a constant hole in the system (overflow tube)? By the way, it is a new radiator and cap although i know they still may be defective.
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
A local radiator shop, or repair facility can test it for you. This picture is of a typical pressure tester (Stant 225) I've had since the mid 70's, whith the radiator cap adapter attached to the end. These testers haven't changed in as long as I can remember. I use it to test my system, when I flush or replace a component. Probably cost around $75.00 today for the kit. Nice tool to have.
For our 13psi systems your cap would test correctly if it released pressure no higher than the blue arrow in the 15-17 lbs range. It should then drop quickly somewhere into the blue range (where it says cap 13-14) and hold for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes they get a groove smushed into the rubber so in order to properly test it, a little spit on the rubber gasket and a few times of screwing it on and off the adapter may be required.
I wouldn't get too excited about air in the system of a '66. If you are concerned, get a 3-4 psi cap, and run a hose from the overflow on the radiator into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Fill the system up completely, then run the car until it is fully warmed up. Shut the car off and it will spew all the excess into the bucket. Wait for things to cool off and strain the excess back into an empty coolant container. You now have extra coolant/water mix, in case you need to top off down the road.
HTH,
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/C15DAF29B7C74EDF9D80B694AEB4F38A.jpg[/IMG]
A local radiator shop, or repair facility can test it for you. This picture is of a typical pressure tester (Stant 225) I've had since the mid 70's, whith the radiator cap adapter attached to the end. These testers haven't changed in as long as I can remember. I use it to test my system, when I flush or replace a component. Probably cost around $75.00 today for the kit. Nice tool to have.
For our 13psi systems your cap would test correctly if it released pressure no higher than the blue arrow in the 15-17 lbs range. It should then drop quickly somewhere into the blue range (where it says cap 13-14) and hold for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes they get a groove smushed into the rubber so in order to properly test it, a little spit on the rubber gasket and a few times of screwing it on and off the adapter may be required.
I wouldn't get too excited about air in the system of a '66. If you are concerned, get a 3-4 psi cap, and run a hose from the overflow on the radiator into an empty 5 gallon bucket. Fill the system up completely, then run the car until it is fully warmed up. Shut the car off and it will spew all the excess into the bucket. Wait for things to cool off and strain the excess back into an empty coolant container. You now have extra coolant/water mix, in case you need to top off down the road.
HTH,
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/C15DAF29B7C74EDF9D80B694AEB4F38A.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 451
From:
RE: Had a bad night
here is a picture of the housing. when i painted it originally, it was a flat black. it has turned to a super high gloss after running for 15 minutes. my gut tells me that the heat from the hose and coolant caused the paint to get soft, wet and slick. In turn acted as a lubricant under the hose.
[IMG]local://upfiles/14974/42AAEA0D0EAC447EBD76BE4A41D24B09.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/14974/42AAEA0D0EAC447EBD76BE4A41D24B09.jpg[/IMG]
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: Had a bad night
The overflow tube sits above the pressure release valve in the radiator cap (black pointer in picture). The bottom hole in the radiator neck is where the valve seats (silver pointer), the tube is just above the lip on the side. The rubber gasket on the pressure release valve of the radiator cap seals against the lip inside the bottom of the radiator fill neck. So if the pressure gets too high it will overcome the spring pressure and lift the valve off the seat. Coolant is then allowed to pass out through the overflow tube.
The higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point.
Makes sense about the paint. Still bugs me that the clamp allowed it to go over the lip though. As you can see in the picture, it doesn't take excessive force to keep the hose on and leak free...
By any chance is the lip flush at the casting seam? Some necks are poured in a two piece cast. The cast seam is supposed to be cleaned up, so that the lip is a lip all the way around. If the casting seam was not cleaned up, and is flush with the top of the lip, that is most likely the point where it came off. In the past I've had to grind a few casting seams down that were not properly finished. A bastard file, or a rough stone on a grinder works very well to clean up the seam.
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/FDFF00E47E3346AAB8757FD5C189D492.jpg[/IMG]
The higher the pressure, the higher the boiling point.
Makes sense about the paint. Still bugs me that the clamp allowed it to go over the lip though. As you can see in the picture, it doesn't take excessive force to keep the hose on and leak free...
By any chance is the lip flush at the casting seam? Some necks are poured in a two piece cast. The cast seam is supposed to be cleaned up, so that the lip is a lip all the way around. If the casting seam was not cleaned up, and is flush with the top of the lip, that is most likely the point where it came off. In the past I've had to grind a few casting seams down that were not properly finished. A bastard file, or a rough stone on a grinder works very well to clean up the seam.
Scott
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/FDFF00E47E3346AAB8757FD5C189D492.jpg[/IMG]
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