aftermarket guages
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 824
From: georgia
aftermarket guages
i bought a set of aftermarket gauges for my car. oil volts and temp from autozone. i was wondering if i could splice in the power to all three gauges from the battery or solenoid. and ground it out under my dash.
5th Gear Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,445
From:
RE: aftermarket guages
I'd suggest using a test light to locate an accessory tap. Look around your radio area, there should be one there that has power with the key in Acc/On. Get a large nose bullet connector and plug in there for positive. Also there should be a dash light tap around the ignition switch area that you can use for the light circuit. This will allow you to dim your gauges along with your dash gauges.
The negative leads for the lights can be tied together and grounded to the dash with an eyelet connector. you can use the screw that holds the pod to the dash as your ground point. I'd suggest a low amp inline fuse. The instructions should tell you what amperage is suggested.
Now you only have the leads to the senders themselves to run. If you are not going to use the gauges in the cluster, you can disconnect them at the cluster and use those wires. This saves running wires through the firewall, and the associated ugly mess that comes with it.
HTH,
Scott
The negative leads for the lights can be tied together and grounded to the dash with an eyelet connector. you can use the screw that holds the pod to the dash as your ground point. I'd suggest a low amp inline fuse. The instructions should tell you what amperage is suggested.
Now you only have the leads to the senders themselves to run. If you are not going to use the gauges in the cluster, you can disconnect them at the cluster and use those wires. This saves running wires through the firewall, and the associated ugly mess that comes with it.
HTH,
Scott
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,328
From: Where I lay my head is home
RE: aftermarket guages
ORIGINAL: Scott H.
I'd suggest using a test light to locate an accessory tap. Look around your radio area, there should be one there that has power with the key in Acc/On. Get a large nose bullet connector and plug in there for positive. Also there should be a dash light tap around the ignition switch area that you can use for the light circuit. This will allow you to dim your gauges along with your dash gauges.
The negative leads for the lights can be tied together and grounded to the dash with an eyelet connector. you can use the screw that holds the pod to the dash as your ground point. I'd suggest a low amp inline fuse. The instructions should tell you what amperage is suggested.
Now you only have the leads to the senders themselves to run. If you are not going to use the gauges in the cluster, you can disconnect them at the cluster and use those wires. This saves running wires through the firewall, and the associated ugly mess that comes with it.
HTH,
Scott
I'd suggest using a test light to locate an accessory tap. Look around your radio area, there should be one there that has power with the key in Acc/On. Get a large nose bullet connector and plug in there for positive. Also there should be a dash light tap around the ignition switch area that you can use for the light circuit. This will allow you to dim your gauges along with your dash gauges.
The negative leads for the lights can be tied together and grounded to the dash with an eyelet connector. you can use the screw that holds the pod to the dash as your ground point. I'd suggest a low amp inline fuse. The instructions should tell you what amperage is suggested.
Now you only have the leads to the senders themselves to run. If you are not going to use the gauges in the cluster, you can disconnect them at the cluster and use those wires. This saves running wires through the firewall, and the associated ugly mess that comes with it.
HTH,
Scott
and don't forget the constant power from a hard wire (direct line to the battery) will drain b/c it's on all the time.
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