hmmm...its in that first pic...a couple threads above my latest pic.
Its just a little brake fluid bottle.

Theres no white smoke unless I flood it a little when starting.

Im going to ask about the rad then move onto the pressure test.

 

I think you guys have just about narrowed it down. Another check is to fill the cooling system to the brim and remove the radiator cap. Do this when the engine is cool. Start the engine and race it. If there is a compression leak and the gasses are going into the cooling jacket then the gasses will displace the coolant. Since the cap is off the coolant will be pushed out of the radiator. You probably have a blown head gasket.

 

I dont know about the whole headgasket issue...the car runs too good. Wouldnt there be more problems if it was the head gasket?
It like somethings restricting the radiator....

 

Just because its running well does not mean you're head gasket is not blown. Run through the tests and verify it, its a simple test.

 

I missed your original post, why did you replace the rad. and water pump?
Being a mechanic all of my life, I have seen some strange things happen, lots of times with new parts. I installed a rebuilt water pump from Napa on a Chevy one time and it started blowing coolant and getting hot 4 days later. After replacing the new thermostat twice, boiling out the radiator, and intalling a new head gasket, it turned out that the impeller was loose and spinning on the shaft of the rebuilt water pump.
I have also seen too much sealant used on T. stat gaskets resulting in a plugged bypass hole, or a t. stat installed backward.
Just thought I would give you a few ideas to look for.

 

It was overheating. So I wen to Napa to get water pump and radiator, and upper hose. The thermo was done a month before. Now it runs cooler than ever but wont let me go over 50mph. Guess its good for gas mileage.
But wouldnt ther ebe the slightest overheating with a leaky head?

 

If you over heated prior to installing this new stuff, there a chance you blew a gasket. It does not take much..

 

Do you still have the orig. radiator cap? I'm talking the one before you started having the water shoot out. If you do, try using that again.

If it were a head gasket, it would most likely be running warm and you would see foam or bubbles in the radiator with the cap off. Since you didnt see water in the oil or oil in the water as well as no white smoke, doesn't sounds like a head gasket or crack.

What I think is happening is you dont have the right cap for that radiator and it isnt sealing so no pressure can build up.

With the engine reved to the point of water coming out, squeeze the upper rad hose & see if there is a lot of pressure on it. Little or no pressure means something is loose & since it's coming out the overflow, it has to be a poor fit from a wrong/defective rad cap.

 

It started it with the old cap which is why I bought a new one. There is pressure in the hoseeven after idleing for a bit. This weekend im replacing the lower hose because its the only thing left thats old.

 

Ok, had to ask. Had a very similar problem with mine. Dont know what radiator I had but it didnt take a standard ford cap. Had lots of problems before figuring that out. Actually ended up replacing the radiator with the proper one. The problem was the cap didnt seat in the radiator properly & didnt hold any pressure. I installed a new radiator & used the supposedly bad cap and all was well. Before I replaced it, I had a pressure test done & that checked out. The tester sealed well enough in the radiator to hold pressure. If you could get it tested with the cap in-place, that would confirm if the system is leaking.

You can check the lower hose visually while reving the engine. You should see the hose sucking together if the hose is indeed weak. I would think tho that even if the hose is bad, the cap should still hold the pressure since the car doesn't seem to be running hot.