Hey Guys I am wondering about smog sh*t and how to take it all off. SHould I just take it off and plug the lines? I mean to be honest when I look under the hood I dont even see anything that looks like smog. So why else would the 351 2V only make 166bhp? I mean she has torque coming out the butt with 280. But what else could I do cheap and easy to build her. I am pretty new to carbs and such but I have a brand new motorcraft 2V for it and I am getting rid of the sh*t holley that is on it. I have competely tuned it up with new cap, rotor, points, condensor, plugs and plug wires. I also have long tubes already on it. and it came factory with the FMX 3 speed auto.

Thanks and I appreciate it,
Kenny


Also if anyone has a 71-73 Mach 1 and knows where I can get interior parts for it I would really appreciate it.

 

What interior parts are you looking for?

In '72, Ford lowered the compression and changed the cam specs on their engines to meet new emission standards. [sm=boosign.gif] On top of that, manufacturers started measuring horsepower differently. Basically, all the accessories had to be attached to the engine and functioning properly. This would account for about 20-30 hp of the losses (water pump, fan, alternator, PS, and AC).

The smog components would be one of the 2 lines to the distributor and an EGR system. These may not have made it this many years, however.[sm=americanasmiley.gif]

If you want to get some power back, a set of flat top pistons and a decent cam would do the trick. Of course, with that low compression, the engine is begging for a little air compressor to be installed.[sm=badbadbad.gif]

 

I have a 72 coupe w/351C-2v and FMX. Most of the Smog stuff has been removed along with the A/C compressor.

A new cam and some head work will help bring that Cleveland to life.

What interior parts are you looking for? most of the major stuff if available from vendors like CJ's Pony Parts and Mustangs Plus or any of the other major players, other than that keep checking eBay.

 

You have a decent base to start from there. That Clev even with a 2v on it will still do pretty decent. I'm not sure but I think the EGR didn't show up till 73. I think 72 was the first year for lower compression & a de-tuned camshaft. I don't think there are any other emissions on there that would rob you of any power.

You have a good start with headers & duals. depending on how much you want to spend, what was suggested earlier will certinly help. Go with at least a cam from a 71 cleveland or something hotter. Getting new pistons is a must if you want to run this engine hard. New forged flat tops will make it stronger and raise the comp. Milling the heads will give an added boost in comp.

The 2bbl carb is a good carb but if you are going past stock on the cam, you may want to consider a good 4v intake & carb to match up with the 2v heads. If you go with another cam, that's a perfect time to replace the intake & carb as well.

Replacing the points and coil with a Pertronix setup is another fairly inexpensive way to get more power.

What gears do you have in it? Going with steeper gears will help it off the line. If you don't go too steep, you will still have a decent driver for going down the interstate.

As was said earlier also, interier parts like door panels, dashpads, carpets, headliners & such are available. If you have something specific in mind, you will likely find someone here who has ordered that part previously. Basically just check out the sponser section to get a start on some good sites.

 

Sorry just saw this. Havent been on lately.

All Clevelands had flat top pistons. 2V heads are a good street head and dont need any porting, they flow plenty of air. get a good 4 barrel intake for the 2V heads, and a 560-750 vacuum secondary carb. I have an Edelbrock and an Offy intake on a couple of mine. Throw a set of headers on it with a good 2.5" dual system, and it will run great with the stock cam. 2v and 4v used the same cams 71-73 so no difference there, the only difference was the heads and some 4V blocks were 4 bolt main, otherwise the bottom ends are the same.

If you want a good cam swap for it, I like the Comp cams XE274 with around 2200 stall (or the XE262) you can go with 3.00-3.73 gears with that engine combo and it will work better than the Windsor guys think. Replace the springs with the lifters and cam so you dont break anything and you can get some RPM out of it.

Recurve the distributor so the timing is all in before 3000 rpm, and give it a total of around 32-38 degrees, you can do that without doing any of the above mentioned stuff. Stock specs are so it will run on any grade gas and they are a compromise regarding fuel and hot starts. Cooler places dont have hot start issues and its not 1972 anymore, we have better parts available than points.

EGR didnt show up till later, there isnt one on the 72, the only smog parts are the vapor cannister and related items. They dont hurt or help the performance unless there is a leak in the lines. Welcome to the world of the big stangs, you have alot of potential in that engine.

You dont have to change things if you dont want to, but its wwell worth it if you do some.