I bet you guys are starting to love me with my questions, but here goes.

I was wondering how one figures out what their redline would be in an engine or any engine for that matter. What raises or lowers it for example? I know my 302 tops at around 5k while na AC cobra 427 tops at something like 7.5k or so. I understand those are COMPLETELY differant blocks, cams, blah blah.. But you get the idea of what I'm asking. Since I bought this FB, I know it has a 302 and a 'ricer' tach that I need to get out of there, just curious how I could tell what my max RPM would be and how to fid the hypothetical max if I changed something so I don't blow it up. =) Did I jut ask the same question twice?

 

Max rpm in a stocker is usually determined by what rpm the hyd lifters float at. to get an increase, add heaver valve springs and better cam and lifters. Dont forget that the bottom end has to be addressed to get much higher than 6,000. then its the rod, rod bolts and wrist pins and pistons that have to be exchanged for better stuff. Max rpm is really a factor of what fails first.

 

Concur with Paladin.. Its all about keepin the thing together, and the valvetrain is usually the weak point that needs adressed first. That was a great answer man... !

 

I have found that easiest way to find the redline is to drive the car hard, when it breaks, remember to shift 100 RPM lower next time.


If you have a stock 289 the valves will float in the 5500 range meaning no more power.

 

So, lets assume I have a complete stock 302 and I want to use is as a daily driver while having the option to run other cars into the ground on the freeway all while on a budget of say $5,000? I know what I *CAN* do to it, I just don't want to be one of those guys who spend all sorts of cash on an intake manifold or cam that really won't do me any good since the rest can't handle the RPMs or torque it can. Oh, I have a 4.10 rear end, which I'm changing out for a 3.50 off my coupe manual 4 speed(not sure if it's a toploader or not). Other than that, completely stock.

 

Sure, spend 4k on the brakes and suspension.
Spend the rest on electronic ignition setup and halogen lights.
If you have enough left over put in a little cam and some headers/exhaust

If you put in a 4.11 with a toploader without signifcant bottom and top end motor mods you top speed will be 89 mph

A car is a machine and all the peice have to be matched to work best together.

A 3.25 rear with a toploader, a car with good brakes and new suspension, and a slightly warmed up motor will be a blast to drive. It will not be a race car.

 

Start with a good rotating assembly. With a $5k budget, you could easily stroke it to 331/347, install a full roller drivetrain, a good single plane intake, and good set of heads...assuming you do the assembly.

 

I may feel like a dope for asking, but... Full roler drive train?

 

Roller cam, roller rockers (fulcrum and tip).

 

Ah hah.. Gotcha.

Oh, what did the 68 302 automatic coupes come with as far ar a rear end goes. It should be a 3.50 or a 2.80 right?