Okay a bit of background. I want to upgrade to an electronic ignition however Mustang Depot sent me single point module when I have a dual point module in the car. So now I need to reconnect the dual points and distributor.

I get the points reinstalled and gapped to the correct gap but when I go to crank the car up i get no spark. I have attached 2 pictures. Any help would be great.

In the first picture the yellow traced wires are coming out of the distributor one going to the negitive side of the coil and the other going to the externally mounted condenser.

 

That looks correct to me. How about the way you wired the points back in? Also do you still have the little ground strap wire that goes from the breaker plate to the distributor body connected?

Any chance you could increase the picture size if you post more shots like that?

 

Okay here are the same pictures just bigger. I dont recall taking anything off inside the distributor as far as grounds or such. I will take another picture in the morning and post the inside of the distributor, the layout is different than any of the others that I have seen. But thanks much for the response.

Edd

 

Hi Edd,

Sorry didn't mean for you to repost the same pictures. I was able to make those out. I was thinking more for future pictures. Especially if you were going to post a picture of the inside of the distributor.

The external condensor and added in ballast resistor are not uncommon for aftermarket units. The pigtail and negative wire hooks up just the way you have it.
You never touched the points or wiring inside the distributor?
There is an easy test you can do if you have a test light, that will tell you if your points are working.

1). disconnect the ground wire and condensor pigtail going to the distributor from the coil. Put the aligator clip of the test light on the Positive (+) post of the battery. Turn the engine over by hand until both sets of points are closed. Touch the wire stud on the distributor (where the condensor pigtail and the negative wire connect). The test light should glow brightly. Rotate the engine by hand until both point sets open and the test light should go out.

HTH,

Scott

 

Okay here the pics of the inside of the distributor. Another question. How difficult would it be to switch this distributor to a single point design so that I can use the electronic module that I already have?

 

The tab for the connector on the points on the left looks like it is grounded to the side of the distributor. Right where is goes throught the distributor. Does that make sense? None of those electrical parts can touch ground.

 

It's pretty easy, you just need to make sure when you install the new distributor, the rotor points to the exact same spot it does now. And also insure you have fully ingaged the oil pump drive. As you pull the distributor out the rotor will turn about 20 degrees while it's coming out of the hole, that is due to the helical cut of the gears. If you've never done it before, it's nice to have someone who has done it help you out.

From what I see in the pictures The points are wired correctly too. just make sure none of the wire connectors are touching anything metal. Did you try the test with the test light?

Scott

 

Also the little felt pads should not be between the cam and the black bumper thing on the points. The pad will compress and give you an improper gap.

 

Hey Scott what do you think of the felt pads? They don't look right to me, how about you?

 

This is where I'm talking about on the grounded wire.

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