overheating problems?
ORIGINAL: Soaring
If money is not an issue, then get a Griffin aluminum radiator, an electric fan, and an overflow tank.
If money is not an issue, then get a Griffin aluminum radiator, an electric fan, and an overflow tank.
Thanks for the help guys. I wasn't sure if it was just hype but it looks like people swear by aluminium—good to know. I'd like to add A/C one day so I just want to make sure the cooling situation for the emgine is bulletproof first.
http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_hpdomestics.html
I had a glance here and it looks like Fluidyne doesn't cover my year: '67. so it looks like I'll be forking out the dough to Griffin!
Coop
http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_hpdomestics.html
I had a glance here and it looks like Fluidyne doesn't cover my year: '67. so it looks like I'll be forking out the dough to Griffin!
Coop
You could look into ron davis radiators...theres some good radiator manufacturers out there, if your going to buy a new one. Shrouds are a necessity. How about the water restrictor?
Hey,
I am having a similar problem, My 69 has a high performance 302 with a pretty big cam in it. I was running the stock coolant system and was running really hot. Last week i upgraded to a 3+ row radiator a high flow water pump, and 2400 cfm electric fan. I also put a a new mechanical fan that sits about 4 inches from the face of the radiator and put a 4 inch fan shroud on. Now even with all of that the car still runs right below H, it is almost touching H. I am afraid to drive it because i dont want to kill it. I also had a 195 degree thermostat in and downgraded to a 180. Still there is no real difference. the only thing that i noticed with the new coolant system is it takes longer for it to get to H as oppsed to before. I also have the stock radiator cap on, it is old and rustty, but the rubber looks good underneath, Could that cause a problem, or do you think i should get a spacer for the fan to get it closer to the radiator. Any suggestions will be appericiated!
Thanks for your time!
Matt
I am having a similar problem, My 69 has a high performance 302 with a pretty big cam in it. I was running the stock coolant system and was running really hot. Last week i upgraded to a 3+ row radiator a high flow water pump, and 2400 cfm electric fan. I also put a a new mechanical fan that sits about 4 inches from the face of the radiator and put a 4 inch fan shroud on. Now even with all of that the car still runs right below H, it is almost touching H. I am afraid to drive it because i dont want to kill it. I also had a 195 degree thermostat in and downgraded to a 180. Still there is no real difference. the only thing that i noticed with the new coolant system is it takes longer for it to get to H as oppsed to before. I also have the stock radiator cap on, it is old and rustty, but the rubber looks good underneath, Could that cause a problem, or do you think i should get a spacer for the fan to get it closer to the radiator. Any suggestions will be appericiated!
Thanks for your time!
Matt
ORIGINAL: moparmatt89
Hey,
I am having a similar problem, My 69 has a high performance 302 with a pretty big cam in it. I was running the stock coolant system and was running really hot. Last week i upgraded to a 3+ row radiator a high flow water pump, and 2400 cfm electric fan. I also put a a new mechanical fan that sits about 4 inches from the face of the radiator and put a 4 inch fan shroud on. Now even with all of that the car still runs right below H, it is almost touching H. I am afraid to drive it because i dont want to kill it. I also had a 195 degree thermostat in and downgraded to a 180. Still there is no real difference. the only thing that i noticed with the new coolant system is it takes longer for it to get to H as oppsed to before. I also have the stock radiator cap on, it is old and rustty, but the rubber looks good underneath, Could that cause a problem, or do you think i should get a spacer for the fan to get it closer to the radiator. Any suggestions will be appericiated!
Thanks for your time!
Matt
Hey,
I am having a similar problem, My 69 has a high performance 302 with a pretty big cam in it. I was running the stock coolant system and was running really hot. Last week i upgraded to a 3+ row radiator a high flow water pump, and 2400 cfm electric fan. I also put a a new mechanical fan that sits about 4 inches from the face of the radiator and put a 4 inch fan shroud on. Now even with all of that the car still runs right below H, it is almost touching H. I am afraid to drive it because i dont want to kill it. I also had a 195 degree thermostat in and downgraded to a 180. Still there is no real difference. the only thing that i noticed with the new coolant system is it takes longer for it to get to H as oppsed to before. I also have the stock radiator cap on, it is old and rustty, but the rubber looks good underneath, Could that cause a problem, or do you think i should get a spacer for the fan to get it closer to the radiator. Any suggestions will be appericiated!
Thanks for your time!
Matt
Having learned the hard way....don't trust the guage in your car. Mine was running just blow "H" for the longest time. I finally broke down and purchased an infrared thermometer and found out I was running right at 180 which is also the thermostat I have installed. Come to find out that my guage needed to be re-zeroed and I also adjusted the calibration. It requires pulling the guage but there is a good article about guages in the FAQ if you are interested.
Just thought you might want to know
Just thought you might want to know
ORIGINAL: jdforsythe
Having learned the hard way....don't trust the guage in your car. Mine was running just blow "H" for the longest time. I finally broke down and purchased an infrared thermometer and found out I was running right at 180 which is also the thermostat I have installed. Come to find out that my guage needed to be re-zeroed and I also adjusted the calibration. It requires pulling the guage but there is a good article about guages in the FAQ if you are interested.
Just thought you might want to know
Having learned the hard way....don't trust the guage in your car. Mine was running just blow "H" for the longest time. I finally broke down and purchased an infrared thermometer and found out I was running right at 180 which is also the thermostat I have installed. Come to find out that my guage needed to be re-zeroed and I also adjusted the calibration. It requires pulling the guage but there is a good article about guages in the FAQ if you are interested.
Just thought you might want to know
ORIGINAL: 6mustang6
I thought the engine runs hotter at idle??? when it's moving, it'll go down 15-20 degrees.
I thought the engine runs hotter at idle??? when it's moving, it'll go down 15-20 degrees.
There are just so many possible culprits when trying to nail down overheating. A good rule of thumb is to do the cheap stuff first: get a recovery tank and replace that radiator cap with a brand new "closed system" one, and get yourself one of the Prestone backflush kits. Those couple of things shouldn't run you more than about $25 together - and just may do the trick.
ORIGINAL: coop67
I have a '67 with a newly rebuilt 302 roller (.030 over) with a holly 4 barrel. There's a 4 row radiator and the fan shroud is in place. It's still running SUPER hot.
See here:
http://coopgrafik.com/blog/?p=27
Will an aluminium radiator really help? Do you think I should go with an electric fan? Any recommendations on brands? I kinda thought everything was right but it's not helping at all. It's 100+ where I live and drive to work every day. Money isn't an issue so overkill solutions are welcome.
Thanks,
Coop
I have a '67 with a newly rebuilt 302 roller (.030 over) with a holly 4 barrel. There's a 4 row radiator and the fan shroud is in place. It's still running SUPER hot.
See here:
http://coopgrafik.com/blog/?p=27
Will an aluminium radiator really help? Do you think I should go with an electric fan? Any recommendations on brands? I kinda thought everything was right but it's not helping at all. It's 100+ where I live and drive to work every day. Money isn't an issue so overkill solutions are welcome.
Thanks,
Coop


