can you have a phb and traction bars or does the phb help out enough? Do you really need traction bars?

 

They do two different things. So yes you can...with a caveat. If you were to install some slapper bars, or a set of under-riders without stiff spring bushings, you'd run into a problem with spring bind. Add a bump in the turn and the rear will want to step out hard.
I'm running Caltracs with mine. The Caltracs also help with brake hop, and add a bit of progressive rate to the stock spring rate.
The reason the Caltracs work in conjunction with the PHB, is they use an aluminum front spring bushing, then I installed a set of heavy duty polyurethane shackles. This makes a significant difference in spring twist, so there is no bind.
The down side to this setup is, in a coupe or fastback the aluminum spring bushing transmits gear noise as well as chassis noise. So it's not going to be your grandma's Mustang. One guy on Stangnet had a set of delrin bushings machined, and said it made a big difference. So if the noise makes you feel uncomfortable that would be an option.
In my convertible there is no perceptable noise at all.
The overall package is incredibly smooth, now that I've changed the rear shocks to something with less high speed damping.

On the other side, there are guys running no PHB, sway bar, or traction control bars and do exceptionally well. Its a different driving style. So don't get caught up in having to have all this stuff to make your car work. You don't!
What you might do is try out some Auto-X and see how you do. Open track events are very expensive. Anywhere from $250.00 for about 2 hours of track time, up to over $600.00. Auto-x is much less expensive. Although you normally don't get quite as much elapsed track time either. You are going to spend some serious coin on safety gear to get on a road course.

The bottom line is, nothing will make you go faster than experience. You need to make the car safe, and make it stop real well first. So think of that before you start buying chassis stuff.

 

Well i am planning on 13' rotors with 4 piston calipers front and 11.25' rotors and 2piston calipers rear. Would that be enough for some light track use or do I need more. I am going to put a factory 4 point roll bar in it, and racing seats with harnesses. I might try doing without traction bars at first and see how it does. I have been trying to find some auto-x events in my area. I live in Richmond Virginia. I have heard that Virginia Int'l speedway has some everyonce in a while

 

They were racing these cars, and running far faster than a novice would ever push it with much smaller rotors, and rear drums back in the day. More important than size is a properly matched system. 13" rotors really limit what you can do for tires. Especially racing tires. And so limits your "tuning ability". Also it limits the classes you can race in. So you may want to change that thought and go with a smaller rotor.
Hook up with your local Mustang club and try to find some guys that race in your area. If it were me, I'd do that before I spent a dime. Not only can you pick up some great information and help, but you might also find you can pick up some of the stuff you want at a really good price.
If you could hang on the coat tails of an experienced driver who does his (or her) own work on the car you will get a great education that will save you thousands of dollars in mistakes.

Good luck!

Scott

 

I don't know if I really wanna race competivly. I just want to go out and have some fun. I am a member to a local mustang club so i will have to start asking around. thanks for your help