roller cams.......
........are alot more expensive!!!!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
sure buy a 87-95 5.0 and it will have a roller cam in it.. The heads are the holdup on those..
Check on Solid rollers, they are a bit cheaper than a hydrualic roller is.
sure buy a 87-95 5.0 and it will have a roller cam in it.. The heads are the holdup on those..
Check on Solid rollers, they are a bit cheaper than a hydrualic roller is.
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
sure buy a 87-95 5.0 and it will have a roller cam in it.. The heads are the holdup on those..
Check on Solid rollers, they are a bit cheaper than a hydrualic roller is.
sure buy a 87-95 5.0 and it will have a roller cam in it.. The heads are the holdup on those..
Check on Solid rollers, they are a bit cheaper than a hydrualic roller is.
ORIGINAL: atomsk680
........are alot more expensive!!!!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!
........are alot more expensive!!!!


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!
in the old days, especially on Chevy, valves had to be adjusted often. Now with polylocks, modern machining, and better tech valvetrain parts, including stud girdles, you dont need to adjust them every week. I ran a solid in one of my cars for three years and only adjusted the valves twice. Each time they were still spot on but I redid them anyway.
I agree, if I had to do it over again the only thing I would change in the build I just finished would be to go with a roller cam. It's the only thing I did not go the gusto on. In hindsight I should have, not that what I have is not good, just the roller would have been better. I did go with the roller rockers...
ORIGINAL: THUMPIN455
in the old days, especially on Chevy, valves had to be adjusted often. Now with polylocks, modern machining, and better tech valvetrain parts, including stud girdles, you dont need to adjust them every week. I ran a solid in one of my cars for three years and only adjusted the valves twice. Each time they were still spot on but I redid them anyway.
in the old days, especially on Chevy, valves had to be adjusted often. Now with polylocks, modern machining, and better tech valvetrain parts, including stud girdles, you dont need to adjust them every week. I ran a solid in one of my cars for three years and only adjusted the valves twice. Each time they were still spot on but I redid them anyway.
ORIGINAL: 69mach1377
This might not even include what is required to make your non-roller block work. I'd estimate $750 all said and done.
ORIGINAL: atomsk680
........are alot more expensive!!!!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!
........are alot more expensive!!!!


http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
ive been looking at that one, but its $413!!!!!!
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