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200k mi rebuild & roller c

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Old 12-24-2003, 01:16 AM
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johnc
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c



I have an '84 302 HO and I want to rebuild it and add a factory roller cam. The eng has about 200,000 mi. Anybody done an engine like this, and how much crank turning and block boring did you do?. I want to use a stock roller from a later engine, will it go in without mods on the heads and block? The local paper has a later 302 (think it is a roller cam eng.)for $200. Maybe I should just startby rebuildingthat engine?</P>
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Old 12-24-2003, 05:50 PM
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mkspeed26
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c

go to www.summitracing.com they have everything you need!! i havent done it, so i dont know any other answers
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Old 12-24-2003, 07:05 PM
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USAMuscle
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c

If you want a roller engine, just spend the $200 and buy the roller engine. That's pocket change compared to the value of the finished product. As far as turning your crank and boring is concerned, the crank should be turned at least .010 to true it up, but it may require more. Bore the cylinders at least .030 over, and if that cleans them up enough and eliminates taper and out-of-round, that's all you have to do. You can go up to .060 over if you really wanted for the few extra cubes, but if you ever rebuild the engine again and bore it again, you will have to sleeve the block, because boring out any more than .060 will make the cylinder walls too thin. Make sure whichever machine shop you use has competent machinists, and if you're refreshing your block, have them check if it needs to be line bored as well.
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Old 12-25-2003, 08:51 PM
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mkspeed26
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c



Originally Posted by USAMuscle
If you want a roller engine, just spend the $200 and buy the roller engine. That's pocket change compared to the value of the finished product. As far as turning your crank and boring is concerned, the crank should be turned at least .010 to true it up, but it may require more. Bore the cylinders at least .030 over, and if that cleans them up enough and eliminates taper and out-of-round, that's all you have to do. You can go up to .060 over if you really wanted for the few extra cubes, but if you ever rebuild the engine again and bore it again, you will have to sleeve the block, because boring out any more than .060 will make the cylinder walls too thin. Make sure whichever machine shop you use has competent machinists, and if you're refreshing your block, have them check if it needs to be line bored as well.
</P>


you sound like you have done this before <IMG src=smileys/smiley4.gif border="0"></P>
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Old 12-28-2003, 05:56 AM
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johnc
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c



Originally Posted by USAMuscle
If you want a roller engine, just spend the $200 and buy the roller engine. That's pocket change compared to the value of the finished product. As far as turning your crank and boring is concerned, the crank should be turned at least .010 to true it up, but it may require more. Bore the cylinders at least .030 over, and if that cleans them up enough and eliminates taper and out-of-round, that's all you have to do. You can go up to .060 over if you really wanted for the few extra cubes, but if you ever rebuild the engine again and bore it again, you will have to sleeve the block, because boring out any more than .060 will make the cylinder walls too thin. Make sure whichever machine shop you use has competent machinists, and if you're refreshing your block, have them check if it needs to be line bored as well.
</P>


Thanks for the info. </P>


johnc</P><edited><editID>johnc</editID><editDate>37983.1665162037</editDate></edited>
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Old 12-28-2003, 12:29 PM
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BLKSTANG9879
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Default 200k mi rebuild & roller c

With 200,000 miles. It might be a good idea to start a re-build project. The roller cam might just do the motor in anyway.
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