Okay guys!!..... 1st I want to thank everyone for your feedback, info and help!!! I could still use some clarification to be sure before I take her out,as I do not want to bend a rod or worse.[&:] I Just put in a 3 row radiator to handle the in dash air that will go in and it had an the original radiator so just now started it after adjusting the valves as I noted above. PRIOR to this adjustment we had it running fairly decent and really smooth, almost no vibration at idle and apprx. 1500 rpm, no tach so guessing, (by the way I do believe it is all original but can't be absolute due to the aftermarket gasket adhesive in many places, but it is a 289, 2 barrell so not much done) SO when I started her this morning after reassembling, it was very rough at different rpm levels, so rough that it would shake and be really rough in the exhaust so that you could feel it in the seats............. do I need to reloosen the rocker nuts and retorque to the 20ft.lbs. or what? and do I understand correctly that if the lifters are not hydralic (which I do not believe they are but maybe need to open up and look to be sure or take a pic and post it here,) than the only thing I would need to do is adjust them to the 20 ft. lbs, with the engine warm but without it running and do not have to worry about positioning -opened or closed? Again thank you!!

 

Meant to post a a picture

[IMG]local://upfiles/49970/B40D5C99ED9241379FDF7CB1F7DDEE7E.jpg[/IMG]

 

The only way you will have a solid lifter is if you either have a K code 4 barrel 271 horse 289, or if someone put a solid in there. otherwise it is hydrualic. Chances are its hydrualic. If you dont have something that looks like the pic below on each rocker arm stud, its most probably a hydrualic.

Direct from a high quality service manual:

clearance .067-.167.

footnote. "Clearance is obtained at valve stem tip with hydrualic lifter collapsed. If clearance is less than the minimum install an undersize pushrod; if clearance is greater than the maximum install oversize pushrod."

What that means is, first you tighten down the rocker arm bolt or nut. Then you depress the lifter with the cam on base circle (ie closed valve) and put a feeler guage in there. if you can fit a .10" feeler guage but cant fit a stack that adds up to .170" in there no problem, you are good to go. if not then you find out how small you have to go. If you cant fit one in there all the way down to .067 then you need shorter pushrods.

This isnt a chevy. Few Fords had adjustable rocker arms. its a simple thing, just bolt them down, make sure you can fit taht size feeler in there and dont worry about it. They hydrualic lifter takes up the slack and adjusts the lash automatic.

If you have poly locks like in the pic, then its different and you need the valves closed to adjust them. We have a solid roller in the toy, a solid roller cam costs $1000 more to put in than a hydrualic cam does, the valves in the toy are $250 a set, the heads were $3400 for the pair. The shortblock was $3200 minus the cam and lifters. So would i set the lash wrong and destroy an engine like that? if you had nearly $10k wrapped up in an engine, would you know the proper way to adjust the valves and do maintenece on it?

never mind if you were and ASE certified master tech, ya think you would know?

Tell ya what, post a pic of your rocker arms with the valve cover of and we can go from there.

[IMG]local://upfiles/14646/B432165A31B74E76AC9D17649CA02383.jpg[/IMG]

 

Just noticed you said 289 2 barrel. it doesnt even need to be warm. Just tighten the rockers to 20ftlbs unless you have what the pic shows..
Sweet fastback by the way.. Love the color..

 

Sweet ride! Is that Turquoise?

 

Thank you! According to the VIN it is Clearwater Aqua but in real life the real color is between that and Turquise. If you have seen the new Checker commercial it is close to the color of that mustang, but as usual monitor color settings and tv color vary so much.... but I do love the color so thanks!

 

Here it is..

[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/BE696FEB9BFB4019B709F7295316871B.jpg[/IMG]

 

Cool! Thank you so much for sending the color sheet, judging by these color panels she is definetly Frost Turquise. Do you know where I can get such a color code sheet for interior colors, all the metel and fiberglass inside the fastback section especially are the same Frost Turquise and the dash bumper by the glove box and metal on the dash is the same color. the bolster of the seat covers are aqua in appearance and the inserts are royal blue in appearance. I have ordered paints, dyes and carpet samples and they don't match. Could you please help me figure out what my cars interior colors are? I could send you pictures. I am having a heck of a time right now with Mustang Project who promised me they were the right colors and were wrong, this after I sent them large pictures. You're the 1st person who got the outside color of my car correct. Thanks so much.

[IMG]local://upfiles/49970/4BA4350D8C7B4997B1D9FC1D7D35CBA8.jpg[/IMG]

 

That's the color of my interior.. I'm going to change the color of the body next year and been looking for a mustang with the color I want. Yours is what I was looking for, Frost Turquise. Love it and it matches my interior color perfect!

I re-colored all my interior panels and I'll bet you're interior is the same as mine! Here's is where and what I have used. I got it from Mustangs Unlimited and the color is Light blue. But its not light blue, its the Frost Turquise.. Here the part number- 641803-01 and here's the link Light Blue (Turquise)! It's $9.95 a can and I'll bet it's just what you're looking for! It took me many can's of paint to find the correct match...

Here's my interior shot;

[IMG]local://upfiles/26659/98C199AE67BB44A19EEDB1FF336E3129.jpg[/IMG]